trekbiker1500
Member
forgive my ignorance, but does that cool software you're running come with the BCS?
Single Tier, 3 Pump, BCS-462, Automated Rig
- Thread starter JonW
- Start date
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OP
OP
My interface is a customized web page that I use for a touch screen. If you know your way around a computer and HTML/Javascript, you can download my files and do a custom version of your own.
Info on the interface and links to the files are in my signature.
trekbiker1500
Member
And another channel in the hobby opens up
. I am not skilled but I can learn...thank you
Here's my new single tier Brutus style build. I've used the BCS-462 controller for the pumps/valves/temp probes. The BCS is mounted to the garage wall and is also used to control the temp for my serving fridges (2 kegerators) and my fermentor fridge (3rd kegerator). There are 3 CAT-5 data jacks on the back of the rig that are plugged into the BCS on the wall. One CAT-5 for the temp probes, one for the gas valves and pumps, and one for the liquid SS ball valves. Check out the next post for a liquid flow diagram.
Burners are natural gas. I ran a dedicated 3/4" gas line in my garage and have a 1/2" ID gas line with QD that the stand attaches to.
The finish on the stand is a high temp powder coating. I was running it for a while with no finish, but it starts to rust pretty quick. I've only fired it up once now that the coating is on it, but it seems like it should last pretty good. The powder coat is rated for 1200 degrees.
Yeah, I know, 3 pumps seems like overkill, but with pumps now available for $100, it really just simplified the setup when using the electronic ball valves. It also lets me setup for doing back-to-back brew sessions where I can be mashing brew #2 while I'm still finishing up brew #1 in the BK. I like to do continuous recirculation on both the HLT & MLT, so this handles that nicely as well.
Updates done since original posting:
- changed to SS QD's (Morebeer ones w/ Brewers Hardware full flow barbs).
- Swapped out pump heads for Chugger SS versions.
- Moved gas control valves from rear to front for easier access.
- Added tippy dump. This helps greatly on double brew days for fast swap to batch #2.
Current Configuration
Tippy Dump view (See separate thread on Tippy dump here: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/tippy-dump-blichmann-mash-tun-266852/ )
Front view - no kettles
View attachment 17786
Front view - with kettles
View attachment 17787
Therminator/Chiller view
View attachment 17788
Pump/Valve view
View attachment 17789
Burner View
View attachment 17790
I am very jealous of you
OP
OP
I was shooting for 8" total clearance under the tubing which is a combination of th 4" leg and just over 4" from the wheels. I ended up with 8.25" of clearance. I'd do it just the same again.
OP
OP
Duplicate post deleted.
Thank you for sharing that, and everything in this thread.
How much room does that leave under your pumps ?
I was shooting for 10" of clearance before I read your reply.
OP
OP
It leaves about 1.5-2" under the QD.
OP
OP
I started having some intermittent problems with my spark igniters. I swapped them out for the hot surface igniters (HSI's) and they are working great. They are powered by 120V, so I wired all three of them to a single SSR. The BCS powers them up 5 seconds before opening the gas valve and continues to keep them on for another 5 seconds after the valve is opened. They are working flawlessly. I'm now going to suggest these to anyone doing an igniter system like mine.
You can search ebay for "Honeywell Hot Surface Igniter". Model number is Q3200U1004.
This is the one I used:
What module are you using for the hsi? I am using the honeywell s8910u modules and time from call for heat to heat is about a minute. If you what you are using is faster I would love to hear more details.
OP
OP
I'm not using any gas module. I have solenoid valves that control the gas flow and the igniters wired directly to an SSR. The BCS controls firing the igniters and the burner. There's a setting in the BCS where you tell it how long to fire the igniter before opening your valve and how long to continue firing it after opening the valve. For attended brewing, this works just fine. If you want to do unattended operations, then you should stay with the honeywell valves that have the flame dectectors and safety shutoffs.
I see, you have in essence just replaced the bbq igniters with glowflies. I am not unhappy at all with my hsi modules, but think I see a bcs somewhere in my future. Thanks for the response jon, your build rocks and has been an inspiration to many including myself
Jon,
Just got through reading this whole thread, nice stand! I am preparing my brew stand build and will be using this as inspiration.
If you had to start all over, are there any changes, minor or major, that you would make? Dimensions, spacing, etc?
Just got through reading this whole thread, nice stand! I am preparing my brew stand build and will be using this as inspiration.
If you had to start all over, are there any changes, minor or major, that you would make? Dimensions, spacing, etc?
OP
OP
If you read it all, then you saw that I have made some changes along the way from what my original build was.
- Moved gas rail from rear to front
- Changed from March heads to Chugger SS heads
- Changed from McMaster brass QD's to B3 stainless QD's
- Changed spark igniters to hot surface igniters
- Added tippy dump
I've toyed with the idea of changing my burners from the wok style jet burners to the Bayou Classic BG14 style burners. Mostly just because of how loud the jet burners are. However, after building another stand with the BG14 burners, they were a pain to get dialed in for proper air & gas flows and I think the top gussetts that I have on the rig would hinder air (combustion) flow from escaping under the kettles. With the velocity of the air and flames of the jet burners, it hasn't been an issue though.
I absolutely love the 3 pump setup though. I quite often do double batch brew days and having the first batch in the BK and starting the second in the MLT is a great time saver.
Just got through the entire thread (along with your keezer build), the stand is just what I'm looking for. I was thinking about going with a Brew Magic set up but I wanted a single tier with automated burner control and to use Blichmann pots, this looks like exactly what I was wanting to build.
Thanks for the all of the details and answering of the many questions. I'll have to make my way down to Huntington Beach some time to drop off a few beers as I'm sure I'll have a few questions myself once I dive into this build.
Thanks for the all of the details and answering of the many questions. I'll have to make my way down to Huntington Beach some time to drop off a few beers as I'm sure I'll have a few questions myself once I dive into this build.
OP
OP
You're welcome to come for a brew day some time.
JonW said:
I did see all of those modifications, my question was more in regards to the stand itself, the frame. Are you completely happy with the configuration of the stands frame, other than Stainless of course.
OP
OP
Yes, for what I wanted, I'm very happy with the stand dimensions and build design. I have thought about doing it again in SS only because I've had several people interested in buying mine. I may do it, don't know yet.
I did help a friend build a clone of mine and I changed up the design for his. We were using the BG14 burners for his and decided to create a design that would open the rear of the frame for better venting of the burners. Instead of a 2x2 bar across the back, I used a 1/8" thick by 2" wide steel plate so that the footprint from the top was identical, but the back ended up being wide open. We also added vertical uprights in the rear since we didn't have a solid rail across the back. This added a lot of extra miter cuts and welding, but the result came out really nice. We also put in a piece of box tubing behind the lower front rail for a better pump mounting area.
Here are some pics:
allclene
Beer, What a beautiful thing
OP
OP
Info for both is already in this thread.
allclene
Beer, What a beautiful thing
I received my igniters and I noticed there is no reference to where the ideal place is to place them by burner. What was the distance you placed yours from the burner and is it supposed to be sticking into the flame or next to the flame of the burner.
mikescooling
Well-Known Member
Nice brew stand, and thanks for the break down of all the steel. Is that 16 gauge tubing?
OP
OP
This all depends on the style of burners you have. You just need to place them next to some jets/tips.
Thank you. The steel was 3/32". Not sure what that comes out to as a gauge equivalent.
trekbiker1500
Member
Looks like SS tubing vs pipe, is that accurate? Planning in my head how my set up is going together. Piecing together materials now. Dunno when I will have all on hand...but the journey is the fun part anyway. Merry Christmas.
OP
OP
Yes, it is 1/2" SS tubing w/ Swagelok compression fittings.
A lot of the pictures aren't loading right now, so not sure if this was in the drawing, but what length SS tubes did you end up using? I ask because brewhardware.com has 8" SS nipples, not sure if that could work to simplify things the plumbing. I figure if it doesn't add enough length, I could compensate with longer nipples between the valves and the pumps.
OP
OP
Pics are loading now... had a server issue this morning.
The SS tubes are about 12" long each. I had originally thought about using SS nipples, but decided on the tubing for a couple of reasons. The first being that it is much easier to get the tubing to the exact length I needed for the pump spacing instead of messing with nipples/couplers. The second reason is that it makes it easier to remove a pump for any servicing needs since they won't all be hard piped together.
Jon, I'm very inspired by your build. In fact, I'm attempting to create a similar version... Was there any logic behind using the inline pump versus the center version? From what i've read, the center pump has less issues with priming...?
OP
OP
Initially, there was no logic to use the inline versions, as I had two pumps from my old system, so that's what I used. However, as I started planning out my plumbing and where I wanted to put my temp probes, the inline versions ended up being useful for mounting the "T" fitting on the inlet side. This gave me both a front facing connection point for the hose as well as a rear facing connection point for the temp probe.
mikescooling
Well-Known Member
Hey JonW I just picked up the steel tubing, I had the guy's there cut it, so my/your stand is taking shape. Your casters are hard core, where did you get them?
OP
OP
Good to hear that my stand, I mean, your stand, is coming along!
I love the casters I have. They lock both in swivelling and rolling and are a perfect fit for the 2" tubing. You just slide them in and twist until they are tight. I got them from Derrin at BrewersHardware.com . Since he didn't have them on the website, I just checked with him and he said he will have them back in stock in a couple of weeks.
SeanGC
Well-Known Member
Do you think the steel tubing tippy setup would work with a 1bbl system?
electrobrew
Member
JonW, I have been thinking about your setup and building one like it. I will probably have many questions throughout the project that I will post. Is there any reason to use two valves per pump instead of a three way valve per pump? Thanks for the help.
D.L.
D.L.
OP
OP
I really couldn't tell you. If I'm doing a bigger beer with 30# of grain, that is probably around 60# wet (or more). How heavy is your mash tun when it's full?
I thought hard about using 3 way valves. At the time, I couldn't find an NPT threaded one at a reasonable cost (they were all BSP). There are also a few benefits to using two way valves. One is that I can top off the BK with water from the HLT if needed, but the 3 ways would block the flow of doing that (going past the MLT). The other thing is that when I flush my lines after brewing, I can attach my water line to one point (far left HLT connection) and progressively flush through the system opening valves. With the 3 ways, you'd have to connect & disconnect your hose to flush each section. In the end, it's just personal preference.
SeanGC
Well-Known Member
I haven't purchased a 1bbl mash tun, yet. I was making arrangements to purchase one, but life got in the way lol. However, when I'm ready to buy one I'd like a tippy dump set up, and I really love the way yours works.
I'll find the average weight of a 1bbl mash tun full and get back to you.
I'll find the average weight of a 1bbl mash tun full and get back to you.
mikescooling
Well-Known Member
It's alive!!!! Casters are on the way and I have some grinding and painting to do; and weld the last two pieces (that helps). If you didn't share the cut list, I would still be putting this off. Thanks again man!!
OP
OP
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