excessive foam on all taps?

So after several weeks of nearly perfect pours, my taps have started pouring a lot more foam. There have been no changes to either the primary or secondary regulators, and the kegs feel like there is still about 1/3 of a keg left in them. This is a new system, so I'm still learning. Any ideas why this is happening after several weeks?

FWIW, moving the kegs can reintroduce sediment to the diptube, which can result in foaming.

What are your pressures and keezer temp?

Have you double checked the regulator to make sure the pressure hasn't crept up? Are you sure the temperature is the same as it was (is the compressor starting to go)?

Pressures are all the same -as in haven't changed (11 psi at the secondary regulators) and psi on the primary is 30. Temp is still 38ish and hasn't changed
I did blow one keg & shut off that regulator....

Hmm. This is a long shot, but how'd you carbonate the kegs? If you used the "set and forget" method, it's possible that the beer wasn't fully carbonated for the first few weeks. Now that it's fully carbed, you're maybe finding out your lines aren't long enough to balance the pressure? How long and what ID are your beverage lines?

zachattack said:

Hmm. This is a long shot, but how'd you carbonate the kegs? If you used the "set and forget" method, it's possible that the beer wasn't fully carbonated for the first few weeks. Now that it's fully carbed, you're maybe finding out your lines aren't long enough to balance the pressure? How long and what ID are your beverage lines?

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I had the same thought.

I did the 20psi for 2 days then bleed method.

6' of 3/16" line

Longer lines are in your future.

brewingmeister said:

Longer lines are in your future.

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Bingo. I use 12 feet of bevflex to dispense at 12 PSI at 40*.

Longer lines would certainly help. But, I have 5' lines with my keezer set at 38F and my tank pressure set at 12 psi, an I get a perfect pour every time. I do the set it and forget method. So, it is possible to cure your problem without longer lines.

OG2620 said:

Longer lines would certainly help. But, I have 5' lines with my keezer set at 38F and my tank pressure set at 12 psi, an I get a perfect pour every time. I do the set it and forget method. So, it is possible to cure your problem without longer lines.

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Besides line length it is important to consider the tap type (cobra versus Perlicks, etc) and the height of the taps. For example, someone with no rise and cobra taps needs longer lines than someone with a tower and Perlicks.

However, in this case 6' may work since it did before.

Has the temperature of the beverage lines changed? Warm lines can cause foam.

Did you accidentally over carb the old kegs when burst carbing a new one? When adding a new keg you need to shut off the co2 input to already carbonated kegs during the burst carbonation period (the 2 days at 20 PSI).

Perlick taps.

No, I wasn't carbing a new keg at the time.
Here's the pictures of my system:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/photo/albums/perlick-keg-cooler-7336.html

KevStL said:

Perlick taps.

No, I wasn't carbing a new keg at the time.
Here's the pictures of my system:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/photo/albums/perlick-keg-cooler-7336.html

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Holy #%&$. That thing is awesome!

I know these are dumb questions, but for this guy at least, those are the ones that always seem to get me Faucets still tight, connections on the beer line still tight, how long since the last line cleaning, are the lever caps on the perlicks still tight.......Although this does sound like either an overcarb, or temp problem.


BTW gorgeous System!!!!

thanks guys! I'm still in shock SWMBO allowed it in the house... and wanted it in the kitchen and not the dining room like I suggested.

All the connections seem tight - not losing any CO2, and no liquid inside the case. for all of them, this is the first keg that has been run through - I just got the system up & running in November.

the CO2 tank is in the basement, and the primary regulator is set at 30PSI running up to the 2 secondaries. I picked the case up off Craigslist for $200. That included the bottom parts of the 2 towers, and the external compressor unit - we had to replace the compressor, but that wasn't too bad. The compressor unit hangs from the floor joists - the pictures were too big to be uploaded to HBT & I'm too lazy to re-size them.

The gas connector on the blue keg appears to be akilter. Bent post or disconnected?

Do you have anything cooling the tower? Some people run fans to keep cold air in the tower and if you have one and it stopped working that would definitely cause foam due to the warm beer lines near the tap. Also, this ones a longshot but if you live in an area where temps have dropped and your furnace is running more and you happen to have a vent near the kegerator that could also be warming your towers causing foam. I know thats a huge longshot but you never know when your chasing kegerator problems

bmac said:

Do you have anything cooling the tower? ... Also, this ones a longshot but if you live in an area where temps have dropped and your furnace is running more and you happen to have a vent near the kegerator that could also be warming your towers causing foam.... I know thats a huge longshot but you never know when your chasing kegerator problems

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The fans in the case actually blow cold air up into the towers keeping them nice and cold

There is a vent near the kegerator, but it is a few feet above the case. It's not just the first pour that is foamy - it is the 2nd & third as well.

I'm going to work on tracking down the problem - no many how many pints it takes.

raouliii said:

The gas connector on the blue keg appears to be akilter. Bent post or disconnected?

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I hadn't noticed that - I'll check that out tomorrow (wife is already in bed in the next room - when you open the doors, the fans are LOUD!)

The posts on that keg are on an angle.