Control Panel PLANNING and BUILD

So I'm planning my control panel based on P-J's wiring diagram here:



Here is my parts list so far...I'm wondering if anyone has any ideas on where I might be able to save a few bucks before I pull the trigger on my order.

We use Automation Direct. Whatever you do, avoid Pioneer Breaker. They have screwed up every order including the replacement parts for screwed up orders and their parts are junk

Well, you can save an easy $6 by adding the deluxe cable to the probe (there's a dropdown for it) instead of buying it separately. You can save a little by going with ebay for the switches and indicators. Some people have no problem doing this while others do (concerns about parts). I got my switches for $3.50 each and lights for $2 on ebay but haven't gotten around to actually using them yet. Check out ebrewsupply.com too. They're a vendor on the site. I don't have experience ordering from them (yet) but the prices are pretty reasonable.

I'm personally looking for a cheaper alternative to the Auber timer and deluxe temp probe. If you find anything let me know.

Looks like a good plan to me. Please do check on the Deluxe add on for the temp probe as summerofgeorge suggested. You can also get a red EPO switch from Auber Instruments ($6.99) instead of the one from Automation Direct.

Also you can change switch #1 to a contactor and a different switch type for just a few bucks more if you wanted to go that way.

If you want to make any changes to the diagram, I'd more than pleased to help you.

Another thought for you: Bottom line - you get what you pay for. Auber Instruments is a very reliable company that stands behind its products. Do it right and do it once. (Just saying.)

Wishing you the best.

P-J

P-J said:

Also you can change switch #1 to a contactor and a different switch type for just a few bucks more if you wanted to go that way.

Click to expand...

Thanks PJ...is there a benefit to going this route? If so, a wiring diagram would be appreciated.

You can also get a red EPO switch from Auber Instruments ($6.99) instead of the one from Automation Direct.

Click to expand...

Do you have a part number from auber for the red EPO switch? It might save on shipping as well since that is the only item I was going to order from automation direct.

Cheers!

smoothlarryhughes said:

Thanks PJ...is there a benefit to going this route? If so, a wiring diagram would be appreciated.


Do you have a part number from auber for the red EPO switch? It might save on shipping as well since that is the only item I was going to order from automation direct.

Cheers!

Click to expand...

Changing to a contactor for the element power just allows you to use a different switch type.

This is the link to the E-Stop:
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7_32&products_id=259

Do you mind showing me a diagram using a selector switch like the one I am using for the pumps/pid power, but 3 position?

smoothlarryhughes said:

Do you mind showing me a diagram using a selector switch like the one I am using for the pumps/pid power, but 3 position?

Click to expand...

Auber Instruments does not carry a 3 position (center off) illuminated switch.

P-J said:

Auber Instruments does not carry a 3 position (center off) illuminated switch.

Click to expand...

do they carry a center off non-illumated switch i could use with 2 indicator lights? I'm using indicator lights with 2 position selector switches for everything else.

smoothlarryhughes said:

do they carry a center off non-illumated switch i could use with 2 indicator lights? I'm using indicator lights with 2 position selector switches for everything else.

Click to expand...

Selector Switch, 3-Position Maintained 2 N/O

You might need 2 additional N/O modules to control your circuitry. (that really depends on your wiring design)

Please keep in mind that this switch is rated for a max of 10A. If you intend it to be used for switching element power, you need to use contactors as well.

Just saying.

BTW: You also might want to just simply browse the http://www.auberins.com/ site to see what they have to offer.

Would this switch work for having on/off/on? Could you show the wiring with a contactor, and which contactor do you recommend from auber to work with a switch like this?

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7_32&products_id=235

Could you explain the difference between the N/O and N/C contact blocks?

Where to you buy this?

SaevaVeritas said:

Where to you buy this?

Click to expand...

Do a search on Radio Shack for “terminal strip”.

So that diagram is awesome and pretty much what I am planning to do now. Minus one pump. I think. One question though. How do you control two different vessels with one PID? No temp probe in the boil kettle? Or a 3PST switch on the probe to select from two different probes?

milesvdustin said:

So that diagram is awesome and pretty much what I am planning to do now. Minus one pump. I think. One question though. How do you control two different vessels with one PID? No temp probe in the boil kettle? Or a 3PST switch on the probe to select from two different probes?

Click to expand...

A temp probe is not needed in the boil kettle. You change the PID mode to manual and then control the percent of power being delivered during the boil.

Awesome thanks p-j!!! You are the man on this electrical stuff!

P-j Any chance of updating this drawing to show the Auberins SW1 switch and two contactors? I'd also like to wire in an on-off switch for the alarm.

I think i have it figured out, but would like to check it against your diagram.

Thanks!

sub. this is gonna be nice

Fritztheelephant said:

P-j Any chance of updating this drawing to show the Auberins SW1 switch and two contactors? I'd also like to wire in an on-off switch for the alarm.

I think i have it figured out, but would like to check it against your diagram.

Thanks!

Click to expand...

SW1 shows that additional N/O blocks are available. I do not see that N/C blocks are available for it. You need to call Auber Instruments and see if you can get 2 N/C blocks that will work with that switch as add on modules.
(deleted content)
Edit: NEVERMIND with the rest of my post. I need to settle down..

smoothlarryhughes said:

Would this switch work for having on/off/on? Could you show the wiring with a contactor, and which contactor do you recommend from auber to work with a switch like this?

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7_32&products_id=235

Could you explain the difference between the N/O and N/C contact blocks?

Click to expand...

Sorry for the delay in responding to your requests and I sincerly apologize for that.

The N/O - N/C contact in a switch that is an ON/OFF switch behave as one would expect. However, with a 'center off' switch the N/C blocks behave in a rather different manner than one would expect. Here is an illustration:



The switch that you linked is an Auber Instruments SW3 unit. That specific switch is illustrated in the diagram (switch #1) that I drew for you that includes contactors instead of the switch in the diagram on page one. This diagram has a few function changes included as well. The timer now has 'pause' & 'reset' buttons. The PID has alarm wiring as well. I sourced everything that I could from Auber Instruments.

I hope this helps you in your plan.

As always - Click on the image to see a full scale diagram printable on Tabloid paper (11" x 17")



I hope this is of some help to you. And again, sorry for the delay.

P-J

P-J said:

A temp probe is not needed in the boil kettle. You change the PID mode to manual and then control the percent of power being delivered during the boil.

Click to expand...

You don't need one for control, but unless you've got either a handheld or a regular thermometer mounted in your tank, it's nice to see the BK temperature when you're cooling, or if you're using the BK element to maintain CIP solution temperature.

File under non-essential, but convenient.

Unless you're not chilling in the Bk

OneHoppyGuy said:

Unless you're not chilling in the Bk

Click to expand...

That is very pretty DIN railing stuff, can you elaborate at all on it?

Thanks,
-G

HDIr0n said:

That is very pretty DIN railing stuff, can you elaborate at all on it?

Thanks,
-G

Click to expand...

The control panel is for this system

There are 4 KLD 3-way motorized ball valves, 3 March 815-PL-C pumps, ERIMS and Aeration system. A BCS 460 was used due to lack of availability of the 462. Thus there are more relays plus a rotary switch. The pumps are tied to 5 second time delay relays allowing the motorized ball valves time to open. The ERIMS has an inline magnetic flow switch to override the heater element to prevent dry firing. The system has manual override on burners, pumps and valves.
The kettles were supplied by Stout, the majority of the stainless hardware from BrewersHardware and the two 20 plate chillers are from DudaDiesel. The electrical equipment comes from AutomationDirect. The frame is 304 SS 2x2x.065. Burners are 23 jet natural gas supplied by BayouClassicDepot.

Sub, Please keep us update on your project, I'm planning to build one soon