My eBIAB Build: Am I in over my head? We'll see.

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inhousebrew

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Alright so it's finally that time. After reading multiple threads on here I think I'm ready to go. I'm setting up an eBIAB system very much like jbr03's 2.5 gallon 110volt system. While it is pretty similar I am not following everything to the tee. Here's a sneak peak at my awesome Microsoft paint wiring diagram. I posted it on here a while back and think it should work? The only changes I made were adding a third switch to the diagram as the main power switch which goes from the the incoming power cord and the terminal bar thingy.

Electrical Outline without buzzer.jpg
 
Here is a rundown of the main parts. I've pieced this together over time so it's kind of all over the place. Also got a few things for free from gift cards, my birthday and Christmas so that also attributed to the diversity of stores.

Kettle:
Midwest Supplies
• 7.5 Gallon Stainless Steel Kettle: 13 ½” high, 123/4” wide: $70
http://www.midwestsupplies.com/stainless-steel-kettle-with-handles-and-lid-7-5-gallon.html

Northern Brewer (ball valve and diptube)
• ½” SS Ball Valve: $21
http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/review/product/list/id/1300/category/36/
• 90* ½” SS Elbow for dip tube: $10
http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/s-s-elbow-1-2-male-x-fem.html
• Weldless Adapter: $11
http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/weldless-adapter-for-1-2-mpt-thermometers.html


Pump: $75

US Solar Pumps
• SS Pump: $75
http://www.ussolarpumps.com/onlinestore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_22&products_id=32

Temp Regulation:

Auber
• PID: SYL 2352: $45
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=3
• Liquid Tight RTD Sensor: $35
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=20_15&products_id=246

Amazon
• 40A SSR and Heatsink: $12
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005K2IXHU/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
• Camco 1500W Screw in element: $9
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006IX89Q/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Wiring Dohickies:

Target:
• Plastic storage box: $3
http://www.target.com/p/sterilite-c...al_1&lnk=Rec|pdp|ClickCP|item_page.vertical_1

Home depot
• (3) Gardner Bender single pole 20 amp toggle switches: $12
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...mp+toggle+switch&storeId=10051#specifications
• (1) 15 Amp Outlet: $3
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...oreId=10051&superSkuId=202887036#.UN4UIG8SffI
• Gardner Bender 22 - 10 AWG 30-Amp 600-Volt 6-Circuit Terminal Block: $6
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...ord=terminal+block&storeId=10051#.UN4JEG8SffI
• 16 awg wire: $5 for 25’ (bought a red and black)
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...word=16+gauge+wire&storeId=10051#.UN4RT28SffI
• An assortment of spade terminals, butt splices, heat shrink, electrical tape and probably a few other things.
Menards
• 12-3, 25’ Extension cord: $21
http://www.menards.com/main/p-1908971-c-6410.htm
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Here is most of the stuff laid out. I still need to get the outlet for the pump but other than that this is most of it.IMG_1366.jpg

Here is me already making a mistake. I couldn't find the box cutter so the exacto knife came through in a pinch although that cheap plastic bin was a bit thicker than I thought.IMG_1369.jpg

pid is in!IMG_1370.jpg

I pre drilled the holes for the toggle switches and am using a 1/2" step bit to finish them upIMG_1372.jpg

And they're in. The big one with the cover is the main power switch just because it looks cool. Other ones are for the pump and the element.
 

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This is everything on the inside. Yep, tight squeeze. Well, I guess I should have listened to the advice and gotten something bigger than what I thought would work....IMG_1375.jpg

Some chopped up extension cord IMG_1376.jpg

Crimping is fun. Never really done much of it before. IMG_1378.jpg

And since everything was all ready to go I decided to take it out and slap some primer on it. IMG_1379.jpg

And red was the only spray paint we had laying around so I guess the control box is going to be red. IMG_1380.jpg
 
And now we're getting somewhere! And that somewhere is an incredibly tight little space. It's hard to see but the incoming power is the yellow cord on the right. That runs through the middle toggle switch to the terminal block to the element toggle switch on the right to the SSR and back out to the outgoing cord. IMG_1381.jpg

Crossing my fingers, double checked the wiring and plugged it in. Flip the main power. I'm still alive. Flip the element switch. Still alive. And the light is on! Great success!IMG_1384.jpg

Or is it? Just to test this out I plugged in the drill I had laying around and tried to use it. Nothing. Not only nothing but every time I tried to use it the light on the end of the extension cord actually switched off. Any ideas?
 
Do you have the PID control circuit hooked up the SSR and do you have a temp sensor attached to the PID?
 
Nope. The PID is not yet installed. I thought I would do that last. Shouldn't the outlet still work though? I thought I would check that before moving forward. Or maybe not? Does the SSR need the PID to be hooked up to work?
 
Nope. The PID is not yet installed. I thought I would do that last. Shouldn't the outlet still work though?

Not if the SSR is in the circuit. There will be a few mA leaking through the SSR, but it's normal state is open.

If you have a multi-meter, you should be able to detect 120v across the SSR, however, due that leakage, but no enough to power an element.


I thought I would check that before moving forward. Or maybe not? Does the SSR need the PID to be hooked up to work?

The SSR needs the PID to turn on the control circuit and the PID needs the temperature sensor in order to work.
 
Wow nice build....wish I had your industrious nature, I simply pull the plug at strike temp and insulate the kettle and pray to the beer gods...:mug:

Lol! I hear if you just leave the beer gods some virgin beer sacrifices this normally works out. More seriously though thanks for the comments. I don't like messing with insulation and then I saw a couple threads on here that got me thinking and I decided if I wanted to do this I should do it. At the very least it will help me learn about electronics a little more. I like diving into these projects I know almost nothing about to so that I can read up a bit and then put what I've learned to the test. The last one started as fixing a flat tire and I wound up disassembling my entire bike and then upgrading a bunch of components. Projects tend to snowball on me.

The SSR needs the PID to turn on the control circuit and the PID needs the temperature sensor in order to work.

This makes sense now that it is all together! Thanks for that, it seems to be working now that I've plugged in everything.
 
Here is my rats nest of a control panel with everything in it. So there weren't any exposed wires hanging around I plugged the ones that will go to the pump into a double outlet I had laying around. Need to get that outlet I want and then do some clean up. IMG_1388.jpg

And here is the front/top of the panel with the RTD probe dipped in an ice bath. It's reading at 33* but that's ice cubes not crushed ice. Should probably check it at boiling. And compare to some other thermometers I have laying around at mash temp. IMG_1389.jpg
 
So I guess up next that means getting the kettle in working order with the RTD and heating element mounted. Also need to make an input for the recirculating wort during the mash.
 
Alright, it's kettle time!
IMG_1390.jpg

Need three holes in the kettle, the one on the left is an 1.25" for the element and the others are for the ballvalve and the RTD prode. I had a friend help with the 1.25" hole because he had a bimetal hole saw and it punched through easy.
IMG_1391.jpg

I used an old step bit for the other two holes and it went poorly. Midwest lists this kettle as "not available for drilling" and I'm wondering if it is because of how thin it is which caused it to cave in the kettle walls under the pressure of drilling. That and the step bit was kind of murdered going through a couple 16 gallon kegs in it's last endeavour. Either way the holes needed some clean up.
IMG_1393.jpg

I got a 1" SS locknut online through amazon for around $9. Using that, and the gasket that came with the camco element to attach it.
IMG_1395.jpg

And the element is in!
IMG_1396.jpg
 
SS Ball Valve, lock nuts and a 90* elbow for a diptube.
IMG_1399.jpg

Dip tube is in, hopefully this works out well. Had a copper diptube last time around and figured I'd give this a go.
IMG_1400.jpg

Everything on the inside. I got this element as a X-mas gift. I wanted ULWD but they got the wrong thing so we'll see how this goes.
IMG_1401.jpg

On the outside. Kind of wishing I had put the element and RTD Probe on the same side.
IMG_1402.jpg

Using this simple barb on the top of the kettle for the recirculation return. May switch it up or add to it.
IMG_1403.jpg
 
I hate to be a party pooper, but I suspect this element will scorch your beer. I used a 4500w element that probably had a similar watt density and my beer tasted like burnt porridge. I suggest you invest in a new one before spoiling a whole batch of beer.
 
Great build
Trying to decide how to connect element. How did you finish your element attachment. Did you bond the ground wire someway to the kettle ? Most of these builds use the Kal box method or some variation but others have smaller PVC type covering system. Just wondering how you approached this.
 
Resurrecting this one...

I'm also working of off jrb03's build but, like the OP, am planning to use a plastic box for the controller. Also, I'm new to electric stuff so I apologize if this is really obvious. Does the plastic box need to be grounded and, if so, how do you do it?

Cheers!
 
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