STC 1000 "Ebay" Temperature Controller Build

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fermentednonsense

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The price on these has dropped. They are running around $14 shipped now.

http://www.amazon.com/s/?_encoding=...&url=search-alias=aps&linkId=5XEL3N2AM3WB3ZX7


Here is my wiring diagram:

stc_1000_wiring_diagram.jpg



I went with 2 outlets, because i want my cooling outlet to control the fridge and a fan that'll move air around in the chamber.
 
I've checked these out on ebay but they all say that they need 220VAC power supply. Is there a selection somewhere to also use 120?
 
Most of the sites automatically send the 110v version if you live in the US. When in doubt ,contact the seller
 
Quite a lot of us have ordered them from Ebay Seller Mixtea. His turnaround from China is really fast. I ordered 2 more of them on Monday, and it looks like according to the tracking info I should have them when I get home.

This will be the third I've ordered from him. His state whether or not they are 110. Here.
 
just one thing to point out that the contacts are only rated for 10 amps. A pair of fuses would be a good thing to add. For my deep freeze I had to run an external relay.
 
just one thing to point out that the contacts are only rated for 10 amps. A pair of fuses would be a good thing to add. For my deep freeze I had to run an external relay.

Would the fuse block go inline between the power-in line and the component? Would it just be a 10 Amp fuse to protect the 10 Amp controller?
Also, could you expand on your external relay idea? I plan to control a refrigerator or a deep freeze with mine that I built this weekend, but have not put it under load yet...
 
just one thing to point out that the contacts are only rated for 10 amps. A pair of fuses would be a good thing to add. For my deep freeze I had to run an external relay.

yay! a search pulled up a thread similar to my situation. Have a question for your external relay setup as well. I've got a similar temp controller (one channel only for cooling though). Seems as though my compressor draw amperage is higher than the rated capacity of the switching controller internally. (5 amps on the controller circuit vs 5 amps operating draw on the compressor, meaning the draw to get the compressor motor going is more than 5) My compressor will not kick on when the circut detects it's time to start cooling. My solution is going to be an external relay but i'm not sure which type of relay to use.

my switching circuit is 120v/5A, but the power side of the relay needs to be 120v/10A or 15A. I've found some relays on radio-shaft's website, but not sure what i need. Can you maybe elaborate on what relay i would need to drive it? SPDT, DPDT etc?
 
yay! a search pulled up a thread similar to my situation. Have a question for your external relay setup as well. I've got a similar temp controller (one channel only for cooling though). Seems as though my compressor draw amperage is higher than the rated capacity of the switching controller internally. (5 amps on the controller circuit vs 5 amps operating draw on the compressor, meaning the draw to get the compressor motor going is more than 5) My compressor will not kick on when the circut detects it's time to start cooling. My solution is going to be an external relay but i'm not sure which type of relay to use.

my switching circuit is 120v/5A, but the power side of the relay needs to be 120v/10A or 15A. I've found some relays on radio-shaft's website, but not sure what i need. Can you maybe elaborate on what relay i would need to drive it? SPDT, DPDT etc?

Should just be a SPST SSR with a load rating of at least 10A and AC control rated for at least 110V. I use Crydom SSR's on my BCS-460-based HERMS. Mine are DC controlled 20A SSR's that I got off ebay a few years ago for around $8. You might have to shop around a bit to find a decent price. The panel mount SSR's are pretty cool in that they're compact and easy to mount. These ones are like mine.
 
those controllers are pretty slick ,anyone know if they make one that controls time instead of temp?
 
Would the fuse block go inline between the power-in line and the component? Would it just be a 10 Amp fuse to protect the 10 Amp controller?
Also, could you expand on your external relay idea? I plan to control a refrigerator or a deep freeze with mine that I built this weekend, but have not put it under load yet...

ether side would work, I put it inline with income power. I would use a 10 amp slow blow type, or a 12/14 amp regular blow. Motors have a significant in rush current that can burn a fast blow fuse.

gatorbite87 said:
Hmm, on my test run everything ran perfectly and has been since I turned it on

Sorry gatorbite87, I'm going to take you to the wood shed over this. The point of a fuse is to prevent a fire when things don't "run perfectly" The outlet in your wall has at worst a 20 amp circuit breaker. The controller is rated for 10 amps. You need a fuse. Have you see this guy:
alstate.jpg


this is what I did:

STC1000.png


basically there are two SSR one for each side (Heat / Cool) the ones I found were 40 amp but can be triggered by 12~24 vdc/ac The two diodes are 1 amp rectifiers. Ether heat or cool come on the fan will run and the diodes give (albeit lumpy) dc to a computer fan inside to keep air moving. If your SSR's can handle ac input adding a diode or 4 with a cap to the output of the transformer will make them happier.

vinper said:
those controllers are pretty slick ,anyone know if they make one that controls time instead of temp?

what your looking for is called a process timer. I have one that i scrounged many years ago, just a quick look through ebay it don't look like it. there are other ones from omega and the like but the sellers want unreasonable amounts of money for them!!!! What range of timing are you looking for? What kind of outputs?
 
Hi

It's worth noting that the rating on the STC 1000 contacts is 10A at 220V AC. The rating at 110V is likely higher. Oddly enough, the rating at low voltage DC may / may not be higher. A lot depends on how the relay was designed.

At least on the ones that I have, the relays are marked:

HF3FF
12VDC-1HS
10A 277 VAC
15A 125 VAC
TV-5
CHINA

I'd say that's a pretty good clue that you can run them at 15A on a 110V circuit.

Bob
 
Hi

It's worth noting that the rating on the STC 1000 contacts is 10A at 220V AC. The rating at 110V is likely higher. Oddly enough, the rating at low voltage DC may / may not be higher. A lot depends on how the relay was designed.

At least on the ones that I have, the relays are marked:

HF3FF
12VDC-1HS
10A 277 VAC
15A 125 VAC
TV-5
CHINA

I'd say that's a pretty good clue that you can run them at 15A on a 110V circuit.

Bob

Thanks for the input... I think I will put an inline 15A fuse and leave it at that. I do like the idea of being fuse protected.
 
Hi

Nothing wrong with using a fuse. Just be sure that it's a 110V device and not a 12V auto fuse. The low voltage ones can get a bit messy when you blow them on line current.

Bob
 
Hi

It's worth noting that the rating on the STC 1000 contacts is 10A at 220V AC. The rating at 110V is likely higher. Oddly enough, the rating at low voltage DC may / may not be higher. A lot depends on how the relay was designed.

At least on the ones that I have, the relays are marked:

HF3FF
12VDC-1HS
10A 277 VAC
15A 125 VAC
TV-5
CHINA

I'd say that's a pretty good clue that you can run them at 15A on a 110V circuit.

Bob


True, but is that in SI amps or China Amps?

anyway, you can go wrong with a fuse, Happy brewing.
 
Hi

There's no way of knowing weather anything in the STC-1000 lives up to it's ratings. It does *appear* to be well designed and put together. As with any eBay acquisition, use at your own risk ....

Bob
 
Yea only one for now. I may build another once I convert my Ferm chamber into a dual use Ferm chamber/kegerator
 
ether side would work, I put it inline with income power. I would use a 10 amp slow blow type, or a 12/14 amp regular blow. Motors have a significant in rush current that can burn a fast blow fuse.



Sorry gatorbite87, I'm going to take you to the wood shed over this. The point of a fuse is to prevent a fire when things don't "run perfectly" The outlet in your wall has at worst a 20 amp circuit breaker. The controller is rated for 10 amps. You need a fuse. Have you see this guy:
alstate.jpg


this is what I did:

STC1000.png


basically there are two SSR one for each side (Heat / Cool) the ones I found were 40 amp but can be triggered by 12~24 vdc/ac The two diodes are 1 amp rectifiers. Ether heat or cool come on the fan will run and the diodes give (albeit lumpy) dc to a computer fan inside to keep air moving. If your SSR's can handle ac input adding a diode or 4 with a cap to the output of the transformer will make them happier.



what your looking for is called a process timer. I have one that i scrounged many years ago, just a quick look through ebay it don't look like it. there are other ones from omega and the like but the sellers want unreasonable amounts of money for them!!!! What range of timing are you looking for? What kind of outputs?

Is the fan always running in this scenario? If not, you're going to have a bad time with those relays.

Edit: Looked at the schematic and kinda made answered my own question. Just make sure the fan is always connected.

Edit2: Your schematic is all wrong. You have the coil running from the secondary, via a switch, to the your controllable outlet. If you do this you're going to do this, you'll be posting from a hospital bed. If you don't know what you're doing when it comes to high voltage applications, please don't post a schematic to the internet. I'm not trying to be an ass, but you could seriously injure or kill someone the way this is setup.
 
Are you talking about wsender or me? My sketch is about as simple design as they come and has been working perfectly since I started using it
 
Are you talking about wsender or me? My sketch is about as simple design as they come and has been working perfectly since I started using it

The schematic that I commented on has the coil wired between the control side, the 12-24VAC/VDC, to the primary side. The coil should be wired strictly on the control side, and the control side should have a proper way for the dissipation of the energy stored within the coil.
 
Ah gotcha. From what I've read though an SSR isn't necessary with the stc1000 only when your using a PID to control heating elements in an electric brewing setup because of the amount of power they pull
 
The schematic that I commented on has the coil wired between the control side, the 12-24VAC/VDC, to the primary side. The coil should be wired strictly on the control side, and the control side should have a proper way for the dissipation of the energy stored within the coil.
I agree, lincolns schematic has a problem. If the right side leads on each relay were swapped it would make more sense. The drawing must be in error, because that circuit should not work as drawn, it would shunt 120v to ground. :eek:
 
Ah gotcha. From what I've read though an SSR isn't necessary with the stc1000 only when your using a PID to control heating elements in an electric brewing setup because of the amount of power they pull

Hi

A lot depends on just how much power you are running in your electric brew setup. If he's running 20A on his heater(s) then indeed he needs something more than the STC-1000 relays to do the job.

Bob
 
I'll be building another one of these for my keezer this weekend. This one will be slightly different, in the it'll be permanently attached in the collar
 
I'll be building another one of these for my keezer this weekend. This one will be slightly different, in the it'll be permanently attached in the collar

Let us know how that goes. I am building a keezer and was just given what I believe to be an STC 1000. It looks the same, except it doesn't actually have "STC 1000" lettering on the front. I'm wondering how to use it [safely]. I already had a Johnson controller coming in the mail from the Beverage Factory so my current thought is to run them in series to prevent my beer from freezing in case one of them dies.
 
Let us know how that goes. I am building a keezer and was just given what I believe to be an STC 1000. It looks the same, except it doesn't actually have "STC 1000" lettering on the front. I'm wondering how to use it [safely]. I already had a Johnson controller coming in the mail from the Beverage Factory so my current thought is to run them in series to prevent my beer from freezing in case one of them dies.

If it doesn't say STC-1000 on it, it could very well be the similar single stage unit. If so, since you're using it for a keezer, it should work just fine. I have one installed in the collar of my keezer. Let me know if you have questions with the wiring, since it's a little different than the STC-1000.

And I don't know if wiring two controllers in series is such a good idea. There's a lot of issues that could create, and it doesn't really protect against much. A controller dying is much more likely to cut power completely rather than freeze the beer, which a second controller wired in series won't fix. Even if a controller does freeze your beer from a malfunction, it won't really hurt your beer.
 
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