3 tier - plumbing for propane

OK, 3 tier stand is almost finished. Need to plumb it for propane.

What should I use? What sort of fittings will I need and are the ones that screw into the burners very standard?

BTW, this thing is HEAVY. I'll post pics later in the show me your sculpture thread.

I should know better than start a new thread in the wee hours of the moring, seems to get buried under all the new posts in the morning.

Can anyone help me out with the above?

Your best bet is 1/2 inch steel pipe, not galvanized. You could use gas flex line (corrugated stainless steel). That has the advantage that the plastic sheathing will start charring long before the line gets hot enough to be dangerous. Look in the water heater or stove area of a major hardware store or go to a Heating & A/C supply place.

All three burners I have use the same size fitting 3/8 NPT. One is a cast iron turkey burner, one a hurricane burner and one a camp stove. I'd still take a burner with me to the store.

Thanks! Wasn't sure on the nipple size. I guess copper line is out of the question??

I used black pipe with teflon tape and teflon paste. Using both will guaranty it won't leak. I also used ball valves at eack burner, they adjust fine, are cheaper and allow for full flow. Just put a regulator at the tank.

I don't have any real good pics of the gas lines but I have a pipe going up the side.



This one shows regulators but I took them off and replaced them with ball valves.

Copper will work fine as long as you have all connections with pipe dope or teflon tape to prevent leaks. You can always find a adapter that will take you from copper to iron pipe threads if need be not really a problem as long as no leaks. Good luck. Your call.

I used black pipe on my rig, and just screwed in the regs into t's

Any problems going from regulator to burners (low pressure) rather than form tank (High Pressure) to a regulator at each burner?

If I go low pressure I should be able to go with copper. If I go to steel I have to get th threads put on the steel pipe at home depot, which means no tweaking once the pieces are made.

Probably try and go high pressure, but I'm having problems getting the LP nipples (tank side) off the regulators. They use some sort of LP lock tight. Afraid I'll break the ends off and I'm not sure if using heat won't wreck the regulators.

OK, decided to go with high pressure from the tank into black pipe and then into thre regulators like you did.

A question. What pressure comes out of a LP tank? I'd like to intall a gas ball valve between the tank and the stand for emergency shut off since its quicker to shut off than shutting off the tank.

The natural gas ball valve I bought says max 150 PSI. Isn't LP under more pressure than that?

Edit: Actually it says:

Natural Gas 125 PSI Max 9BX3
600 W.O.G.
150 W.S.P.

Dennys Fine Consumptibles said:

OK, decided to go with high pressure from the tank into black pipe and then into thre regulators like you did.

A question. What pressure comes out of a LP tank? I'd like to intall a gas ball valve between the tank and the stand for emergency shut off since its quicker to shut off than shutting off the tank.

The natural gas ball valve I bought says max 150 PSI. Isn't LP under more pressure than that?

Edit: Actually it says:

Natural Gas 125 PSI Max 9BX3
600 W.O.G.
150 W.S.P.

Click to expand...

Not sure why you need an emergency shut off. I never needed one cause the regs work fine! I would not bother

More for possible leaks in the piping or whatever. It's between the tank and the three regulators.

Dennys Fine Consumptibles said:

More for possible leaks in the piping or whatever. It's between the tank and the three regulators.

Click to expand...

Just build it, and use a soap solution to check for leaks. Once the black pipe is buit and sealed with teflon tap your done.

You can add a ball valve in the run if it helps ya sleep

Any more thoughts on this? How does one go about bypassing the regulator to connect the tank to the plumbing system? I really need to start working on this project, but I'll be honest it scares the crap out of me.

Make sure you use the yellow teflon tape for gas...

Monster Mash said:

I used black pipe with teflon tape and teflon paste. Using both will guaranty it won't leak. I also used ball valves at eack burner, they adjust fine, are cheaper and allow for full flow. Just put a regulator at the tank.

I don't have any real good pics of the gas lines but I have a pipe going up the side.

This one shows regulators but I took them off and replaced them with ball valves.

Click to expand...

Now THOSE are some good looking cans!

I would suppose running high pressure up the stand guarantees that you get adequate flow to each burner. Just buy a crap load of various sized black pipe nipples and fittings, go home and make it work and then return everything you didn't use. That way you avoid multiple trips. You can get by with 3/8" black pipe given the high pressure.

Check out Mcmaster.com... item 77445A83

It looks like that threads onto the tank and presents 3/8" female NPT to the stand. However, make sure whatever you use to connect the tank to your stand can withstand 200psi. I wonder if air hose would work. It's got NPT threads and has a burst pressure of 300psi typically.

Also, you'll have to close all your regulators and very slowly crack open the tank valve. Having to fill the manifold up with gas requires this so that the safety valve doesn't trip. It needs to see back pressure or it will shut down.

So now I'm thinking that I'm going to have the plumbing on the stand hook up to the propane tank via a regulator, as most seem to. Then I'd like to run lines to my two burners, with some kind of control method in between. Has anyone had any experience with these?
Control Valve $5.50
The only big problem that I see with them is that they are 1/4"NPT and my piping will be 1/2" or 3/8" so I would have to reduce on both sides of them before they go to the burners. If you look at my stand, you will see that I have a lot of room to work with. I'll only be putting burners on the top and bottom tier for now...

Just use ball valves that are rated for gas as found in the plumbing section of Lowes or HD. 1/2" NPT is common.

Bobby_M said:

Just use ball valves that are rated for gas as found in the plumbing section of Lowes or HD. 1/2" NPT is common.

Click to expand...

I've got a three tier and that's what I use. Since I am either using the top or the bottom burner, but not both, I just open and or close accordingly.

My gas valve (that I used on my MLT dump valve) LEAKS!!!!!

I can shut it all the way off, but my MLT still drips about 2 drops per minute.

Gas valves are not the kittens mittens.

That is all, chat killer has spoken.

Anyone know if they make 1/8" black pipe or will I have to use 1/4" and get an adapter?

1/2" would be the standard size used for most stands around here. You've got a lot of pressure going through there, and I've never seen 1/4" black steel...