Help picking yeast.

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Poobah58

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Having a tough time deciding on which yeast to use. Any opinions?

C.A.S.H. Pale Ale
9 lbs Pale Malt, Maris Otter (3.0) 75.00 %
1 lbs 8.0 oz Munich I (7.1 SRM) 12.50 %
8.0 oz Biscuit Malt (23.0 SRM) 4.17 %
8.0 oz Caravienne (23.0 SRM) 4.17 %
8.0 oz Wheat Malt (2.5 SRM) 4.17 %
1.00 oz Horizon [11.60 %] (60 min) 30.4 IBU
1.50 oz Centennial [9.00 %] (10 min) 12.8 IBU
2.00 oz Simcoe [14.70 %] (5 min) 15.7 IBU
1.50 oz Amarillo [9.90 %] (0 min) (Aroma Hop-Steep)

1 Pkgs Dry English Ale (White Labs #WLP007)
1 Pkgs European Ale (White Labs #WLP011)
1 Pkgs SafAle American Ale (DCL Yeast #S-05)

6 gallon batch/75% Eff/90 min boil
Original Gravity: 1.056 SG
Bitterness: 58.9 IBU Calories: Color: 7.4 SRM

Add Amarillo at flameout. Cover and steep for 30 min. before cooling.
 
depends, do you want fruity esters, do you want a dry beer, do you want it to be yeasty, do you want it to ferment cleanly. These are important things to know, also it might be helpful if you could tell us what types of yeast ale or lager. Do you have temperature control.
 
yeah 007 then when its done brew a really big beer and throw it on top.
 
Me personally, I'd go with the SafAle S-05. Just my opinion though. The cool thing about homebrewing, is it's your's, try all three in three different batches!
 
jay075j said:
Me personally, I'd go with the SafAle S-05. Just my opinion though. The cool thing about homebrewing, is it's your's, try all three in three different batches!

Hmmmmm, I do have a few 3-gal carboys and a few 3-gal kegs :mug:
 
Donasay said:
depends, do you want fruity esters, do you want a dry beer, do you want it to be yeasty, do you want it to ferment cleanly. These are important things to know, also it might be helpful if you could tell us what types of yeast ale or lager. Do you have temperature control.

Yeasts are listed. I have used S-05 before and liked it. Never used the other yeasts though. I like malty beers as well as dry beers. That's what makes it so tough:drunk: :drunk: :drunk:
 
S-05 will make it a very neutral and yummy ale. I'm a big fan, and S-05 (wyeast 1056 technically) is my standby yeast. Can't say enough good stuff about it.
 
There are all sorts of yeasts out there, depending on what you want.

To stick more on the American side, go with Chico (S-05, WY 1056, WLP001), Anchor (WL American II, WL California V), or Rogue/Pacman (WY Northwest Ale, WL Pacific Ale). Chico will produce the least amount of esters, but the others will not make anything very fruity, either. If you want something fruitier, go with any of the myriad English/British ale yeasts (including Ringwood). Do not get into the Irish/Scottish yeasts, though.

I also like the idea of splitting it.


TL
 
TexLaw said:
There are all sorts of yeasts out there, depending on what you want.

To stick more on the American side, go with Chico (S-05, WY 1056, WLP001), Anchor (WL American II, WL California V), or Rogue/Pacman (WY Northwest Ale, WL Pacific Ale). Chico will produce the least amount of esters, but the others will not make anything very fruity, either. If you want something fruitier, go with any of the myriad English/British ale yeasts (including Ringwood). Do not get into the Irish/Scottish yeasts, though.

I also like the idea of splitting it.

TL
Thanks but I'm trying to use what I have in stock. I have a few others but none that you have suggested.
 
+1 S-05

:off:
Poobah58 said:
Add Amarillo at flameout. Cover and steep for 30 min. before cooling.

I'm pretty new at brewing but I thought you wanted to cool the wort down as fast as possible to avoid DMS... Also covering the pot while it is in the DMS temperature range would keep all the DMS that would escape thru normal evaporation (this is why you're not supposed to boil in a covered pot IIRC). Maybe dry hopping could be a better option. Just my opinion!! Like I said I'm pretty new! :mug:

edit:
From HowToBrew.com:

DMS is continuously produced in the wort while it is hot and is usually removed by vaporization during the boil. If the wort is cooled slowly these compounds will not be removed from the wort and will dissolve back in. Thus it is important to not completely cover the brewpot during the boil or allow condensate to drip back into the pot from the lid. The wort should also be cooled quickly after the boil, either by immersing in an ice bath or using a wort chiller.
 
After a 90 minute boil I don't think I need to worry too much about DMS, plus the chiller is in the pot and the lid is not completely on and steam still escapes. Just trying to keep the buggies out. 30 minutes may be a little long. Maybe I'll cut it to 10-15 minutes. I will turn the chiller on to get the temp down to 180°F ASAP though. I will then let it steep for a while before dropping to pitching temps.
 
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