Costs for a welded stand

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lou52onu

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I've finally made some contacts that can get the materials and weld a modified tippy dump (SloBrewer's Design) for me. I have two questions for you are regarding the cost to build: 1) I was quoted for $106 for materials (1" x 2" - 14ga box tubing). To me the costs seem resonable but I have no experience with it. Does the size (for weight bearing capability, etc. sound correct) and cost seem legitimate 2) I was quoted $250 for the labor to weld it. To me for a side job the labor sounds a bit high. He said it would take 2 days to weld.


Are these reasonable costs?


Thanks for all of your help,

Jim
 
Is the materials cost already measured and cut to specs? I'm not familiar with SloBrewer's design, so I don't know how much material it is, but I'd expect that about $100 would be fair for my brew stand if I used 1x2 tube.

For a good welder to do this involves a lot more than just zapping some metal. $250 sounds high, but that's because I can do my own welding. It doesn't sound unreasonable.
 
Sounds to me like you are getting a reasonable quote for the welding work you are talking about. Here in central IL I deal with 3 different welding shops. Comparing to other projects they have done for me you are probably getting a good deal
 
You Guys SO OVER BUILD these things.
I'll be building mine out of 3/4" steel tubing...I'll post pictures if I ever get off my arss and get it done. The ones I've seen here would hold up a Semi Truck!
 
I have to ask the same question schneeman asked, are you going to precut the materials?
1" x 2" - 14ga box tubing
I concur, BigKahuna.
Wow.
That's beefy.

I do my own welding, too, but I'd say $250 sounds reasonable if you are having the welder assemble the brewstand. However, it's probably a little high if you're providing a pre-cut, jigged assembly that he's just going to weld together. This would be pretty difficult, unless he can spare some space in his shop for awhile for you to assemble the frame, because it'll get jostled quite a bit in transit, I'd imagine.
 
I paid 300 bucks for my welding job. It's 2X2 stainless and that included several holes drilled and tapped, and a panel cutout. Pictures are in my gallery.

KD
 
Look for 1.25" square tube with .060" walls (~18 ga). It's plenty strong for your application and will save you quite a bit of money (and frustration if you're doing the cutting yourself).

If the welder thinks it's going to be a two day job, your design is probably way over-engineered, and $250 is a steal ($60/hour is not unreasonable...).
 
Go with .060 tubing that Yuri mentioned, and look at it as an opportunity.....

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$242.00
 
Go with .060 tubing that Yuri mentioned, and look at it as an opportunity.....

164615_lg.gif


$242.00

I find that welder rather cheap vs a Miller or Lincoln as a lifetime investment tool. One must add the bottle larger the better plus owner owned vs leased pays for itself over time. Think ahead about the availability of replacement parts on those off brand units be it only months not years later. This is a tool you do not want to go cheap on, you get what you pay for with welders. Buy a major brand unit with the highest amperage output you can afford as they will have better welding control adjustability than any cheaper or off brand units. Miller's my choice of Tig and Mig welders. Your reply made me laugh as I have a 2" x 2" frame that supports three long block FE Ford motors in the shop, were talking 1,600 plus pounds on casters. Korndog's stand sure is pretty I must add.
 
I find that welder rather cheap vs a Miller or Lincoln as a lifetime investment tool. One must add the bottle larger the better plus owner owned vs leased pays for itself over time. Think ahead about the availability of replacement parts on those off brand units be it only months not years later. This is a tool you do not want to go cheap on, you get what you pay for with welders. Buy a major brand unit with the highest amperage output you can afford as they will have better welding control adjustability than any cheaper or off brand units. Miller's my choice of Tig and Mig welders. Your reply made me laugh as I have a 2" x 2" frame that supports three long block FE Ford motors in the shop, were talking 1,600 plus pounds on casters. Korndog's stand sure is pretty I must add.
you are 100% correct...but You are over thinking this.
I was making a point that would have been negated by posting a pick of a miller Syncrowave 250 for 6 grand.
 
Your reply made me laugh as I have a 2" x 2" frame that supports three long block FE Ford motors in the shop, were talking 1,600 plus pounds on casters. Korndog's stand sure is pretty I must add.

I will say that i have to exercise great self control not to buy a welding rig. It looks like fun, and I can definitely see myself getting involved. I know better than to buy a Harbor Freight offering, though it's tempting.

Say, I know your laughing but if I had to do it over again, I would still use 2X2, but 1/16 wall instead of .120. Man, this thing is way overkill, but I LOVED the experience of building it (except the welding). Thanks for the compliment btw.
 
What's wrong with your stand, I didn't see any shopping carts supporting your kegs your cool. Function is number one priority.
Rain, what's that? Here in sunny California, S.F. bay area.
Your winter starting a little early this year?
I was there during the storm of the century back in
87 or 88.

Back to OP.

Your dead on on the high price of Syncrowaves these days.
At www.cyberweld.com the Synchrowave 200 is listed at $1,936.
To play is not cheap these days.
I paid $4,200 for my fully loaded 350 Synchrowave only item missing
was the spotweld timer back in 1991. Made my own torch cooler with a
stainless steel Procon pump, AC condenser with fan plus a reservoir. I was lucky as I welded for my electrical contractor at home on aluminum light poles on weekends this paid off the welder within 3 months besides a tax write off. I needed the amperage for aluminum besides loading up a 250 would of cost more than the 350. Today this is way over the top the money they're asking for a 350 Synchrowave. For Mig out of pocket under $250 for a 251 MM w/30A spoolgun due to my share of the copper off another job. My share split 7 ways was over $8,300, best part we were paid on company time to remove and cash it in by the contractor. Mig welder purchase, 280 cu/ft owner owned bottles Argon and C-25 plus Speedglas hood, still had money left over to take the family of 4 to Hawaii. Right place at the right time again plus was certified so the contractor wanted me on the state highway job we had. I could not replace these welders today as prices are higher as well no more copper for the wiremen as contractors have become money tight these days.

Back to OP. I would ask around as there are many certified professional welders out there you just have to ask around and find one that has his own welding equipment that will weld your stand at their home. Cash no paperwork or taxes will always get you a lower cost for welding your stand. Rushing any welder the price goes up instantly.
 
I will say that i have to exercise great self control not to buy a welding rig. It looks like fun, and I can definitely see myself getting involved.

Damn right it is fun to weld plus addictive besides the feeling you built it yourself and cheaper. Remember you do not pick up Tig and become a instant quality welder without many many hours, months even years of practice with many frustrating moments included. At least this was with me you might catch on quickly.
There are times when i've had good days then others were it's better to hit the off switch close the gas bottle an just walk away. This has been my problem not welding enough these days. Bad back injury has totally stopped my life in general so i'm rusty with Tig.

If I were looking for a Tig machine I would try ebay for a used machine or www.cyberweld.com (great prices) for new vs the price Miller welding supply stores want with their MSRP asking prices.
 
I 100% guarantee my brewstand is the must under engineered around. :D

I'll get a picture next time it stops raining.

I must also leak oil being made in England. Couldn't resist
being a 95 Discovery owner. It took 4 years to get all the leaks stopped.
Anti-freeze, steering box (Ford's Bendix failure including the same failing seal) hence used by Ford for only 2 1/2 years. The 5-speed, transfer case, rear diff,
sun roofs, even the AC leaked its R134a out.
 
dont under estimate the hf welders. they have their issues but have seen some pretty fine beads laid by them. if your only welding a couple times a year a cheapy can pay for itself. and they do make replacement parts for the hf welders and everything else you buy there pretty much. I have a hf press i paid 100 bucks for and i have done plenty of ujoint replacements as well as a couple diff rebuilds and a tcase or two. have the cheap 9 buck on sale 4inch grinder i have used about 100 disks on no issues. little noisy but for 9 bucks compared to 100 for some of the others.
 
I don't personally see the need for a hobbyist to get into something like a Synchrowave. My Lincoln Electric Handy MIG was about $350. It plugs right into 115V, 20 AMP outlet. They say it is rated for 35-88 Amps. The description says you can weld anything from 24 gauge to 1/8 mild steel, but it did a fine job on the 3/16 for my auto rotisserie.
 
I must also leak oil being made in England. Couldn't resist
being a 95 Discovery owner. It took 4 years to get all the leaks stopped.
Anti-freeze, steering box (Ford's Bendix failure including the same failing seal) hence used by Ford for only 2 1/2 years. The 5-speed, transfer case, rear diff,
sun roofs, even the AC leaked its R134a out.

My brother has a '67 Rolls that doesn't leak a drop. :)
 
Boy did I hijack the OP thread without trying. "limey Lemon"
dad called the Rover. Got it dry besides I like the 5.3 litre
I have in it vs the factory 3.9 litre V8. Street only with massive
swaybars, stiffer springs and shocks, I like to go thru the twisties.

My Miller repair tech I recall told me that Miller builds
the internal parts for other welder manufactures that just paint
and stick their name on the units. This for the lower end
models only and built for a price. I'm surprised Hobart hasn't been mentioned they are under Millers roof.

Years ago I was repairing motorcycle heads
hence the higher dollar and amperage unit (3-385 amp) besides
the machine paid for itself and I was welding almost daily. It was a
purpose purchased unit not a twice a year or one hobby project item.
I'm glad I went that route back then as I could not afford them today
being forced early retirement due to back injuries.
Those "suitcase" inverter" Tig machines are also something to look at besides going back to the Synchrowave units. There are many Synchrowaves sold over the years still running without problems, that would be my choice if I was in the market for a used machine. It's not cheap to play these days.
 
Anyone know of a welder in southwest Connecticut that has done a Brutus 10?
 
Thanks, I have the plans from both BYO and from Lonnie, so I figured a professional could work with this. Of course, if they've done it before it would even be easier. Prefer to use someone recommended, rather than pick names out of the yellow pages...
 
Thanks, I have the plans from both BYO and from Lonnie, so I figured a professional could work with this. Of course, if they've done it before it would even be easier. Prefer to use someone recommended, rather than pick names out of the yellow pages...

Cool. If you are running wires inside the stand, make sure they (you) deburr and finish the holes smooth (I would go 1" btw). Pulling wires was the most difficult part of this entire project. Mine are all run internally.
 
I am also in the market for building the stand for my setup. I already have a welder who basically does it for free, so I am just trying to find a place to buy cheap materials. I was hoping to go with stainless steel tubing or something similar.
 
I am also in the market for building the stand for my setup. I already have a welder who basically does it for free, so I am just trying to find a place to buy cheap materials. I was hoping to go with stainless steel tubing or something similar.

Jared,

Boulevard Sales in Elkridge MD is just a trip up Rt.1 for you.
Also, look for a Posners near you. I think they have one in Montgomery County.
 
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