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geim32

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This is my first time making my own recipe. It's suppose to be a Lagunitas IPA Clone. Any advise is appreciated thanks.

Batch Size: 5.00 gal Style: American IPA (14B)
Boil Size: 3.57 gal Style Guide: BJCP 2008
Color: 9.5 SRM Equipment: My Equipment
Bitterness: 77.8 IBUs Boil Time: 60 min
Est OG: 1.066 (16.0° P)
Est FG: 1.016 SG (4.0° P) Fermentation: My Aging Profile
ABV: 6.6% Taste Rating: 30.0


1 lbs 10.3 oz Caramel/Crystal Malt - 10L (10.0 SRM) Grain 1
13.1 oz Caramel/Crystal Malt - 40L (40.0 SRM) Grain 2
11.6 oz German dark Munich Malt (9.0 SRM) Grain 3
1.2 oz Horizon [13.0%] - First Wort Hops 4
2 lbs Extra Light Dry Extract (3.0 SRM) Grain 5
1.00 tsp Irish Moss (Boil 15 min) Misc 6
0.6 oz Cascade [5.5%] - Boil 15 min Hops 7
0.6 oz Willamette [5.5%] - Boil 15 min Hops 8
4 lbs 2.7 oz Extra Light Dry Extract [Boil for 10 min] (3.0 SRM) Grain 9
1 lbs Wheat Dry Extract [Boil for 10 min] (8.0 SRM) Grain 10
0.8 oz Cascade [5.5%] - Boil 5 min Hops 11
0.4 oz Centennial [10.0%] - Boil 5 min Hops 12
0.3 oz Cascade [5.5%] - Boil 1 min Hops 13
0.3 oz Centennial [10.0%] - Boil 1 min Hops 14
1 pkgs American Ale (Wyeast Labs #1056) Yeast 15
0.5 oz Cascade [5.5%] - Dry Hop 7 days Hops 16
0.2 oz Centennial [10.0%] - Dry Hop 7 days Hops
 
I'd probably ditch the crystal 10 and adjust to make the crystal 40 10% or less of the grain bill. I'd probably also think about pitching 2 packs of yeast - unless I misread and its less than a 5 gallon batch that's going in to the fermentor.

I've never made a pale ale with wheat (extract or grain), but that doesn't bother me.

Edit: you may need to adjust your extract if you remove the crystal. I don't think it's able to self convert, but it looks like you're using beersmith so just adjust accordingly.
 
It's a 5 gal batch. U think I should go with 2 packs of yeast never have before
 
Anything over 1.050 I always go with 2 packs or make a starter. Check out the "starter" tab in beersmith. It tells you the number of cells you have and the number of cells you need.

You may also want to consider adding 8oz of sugar to get it to dry out a little more. I almost always add a little corn or table sugar to my apa/ipas to get them to get down to 1.008 or less.

Are you trying to make this clone recipe on your own or did you get another recipe and modify it? I don't want to take you too far off course if you're working with something close to a tried and true clone.

Cheers!
 
Nah just figuring it out on my on with a little research on line so any help is cool. Thanks
 
Cadillacandy

When do u add the sugar and y does that help get the FG down?
 
I think you've got too much crystal malt.

Agreed. No more than 6-8 ounces (total) of crystal malt in a 3.5 gallon sized batch. I don't use wheat in my IPAs, but many people do with good results.

1.2 ounces of bittering hops seems like an awful lot for a 3.5 gallon batch. I'd reduce that, and then increase all of the flavor and aroma additions to .75 ounces.

For the dryhops, .2 ounces of centennial is a "don't bother" amount. Either add hops, or don't, but .2 ounces isn't nearly enough to even taste.
 
I'm not sure where 3.5 gals came from its a 5 gal batch should I still change things or leave it the same?
 
geim32 said:
Cadillacandy

When do u add the sugar and y does that help get the FG down?

I usually add sugar at the 15 min mark (15 mins left in the boil). It adds simple sugars that the yeast can totally chew thru.
 
I'm only doing a partial boil around 3 gals but the total is a 5 gals batch.
 
I'm not sure where 3.5 gals came from its a 5 gal batch should I still change things or leave it the same?

Oh, sorry. That recipe format is incredibly hard to read. The extract is mixed up with the hop schedule, etc. It's a real pain to try to figure out.

In general, no more than a pound of crystal (MAX) is desired. I wouldn't use sugar, unless I had problems with attenuation in the past.

Definitely increase the hop additions to 1 ounce, if this is a 5 gallon batch. .2/.3/etc are nothing, and won't give you much at all.
 
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