GVH Drying Method

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GVH_Dan

GVH_Dan

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I’ve had an unusual number of requests for an explanation of my drying method as of late, so I figured I would start a new thread to explain.
For those that don’t know, my name is Dan and I’m the Process Design Engineer for Gorst Valley Hops. We are a hop grower/processor based in Wisconsin with growers spread across the Midwest. We’ve gained a fair amount of respect among the Midwestern brewers for our consistent supply of higher-than-average quality hops.

What’s our secret? Part of it is the growing methods we have developed for the Midwestern climate but a lot of it comes from breaking with traditional drying methods of the PNW (Pacific Northwest) and doing our own thing. I developed this method from over a dozen years working in the food processing/refrigeration industry. I literally stole ideas from pea freezing, packaged cake cooling and my curling club to come up with this.

Let me lay this idea out over several posts. Sorry for the wordiness but no one has ever accused me of being a man of few words.
 
Step 1: Forget everything you think you know and realize that hops are closer to roses than malt.

It’s traditional to “kiln” the hops by heating them up to 140F to drive out the moisture. In actuality, the heat really does very little to the rate at which the moisture leaves the cone. The purpose of the heat is to lower the relative humidity of the air allowing it to absorb more moisture from the hops. Heating to 140F will drop the RH below 10% in almost any climatic conditions. This is important if you are harvesting 10’s of acres every day and need to dry it in 24 hours, as they do in the PNW. This is not the case for the home grower or the small commercial grower.

When you raise the temperature to drive out the moisture, you also increase the evaporation rate of the oils and aromas. Anything above 90F will rapidly push out the oils. True, the alpha acids will remain and give you the bittering, but the “flavor” you desire is gone. Again, treat them like roses to preserve the oils and aromas.
 
Step 2: Understand this: to remove moisture you either need to increase the amount of air touching the hops, lower the relative humidity or both.

First, we will focus on increasing air contact. The way moisture is removed from hops is via air. The more air that touches the hops, the more it can remove…period. It doesn’t magically disappear when it’s trapped in a grocery bag, it doesn’t vaporize in high heat, it can’t escape from a grocery bag, placing them in an air tight plastic tote with a fan blowing the air in circles doesn’t move it away…air has to carry it away, far away, into the great outdoors. If you understand this, you can see why putting the hops in a paper bag, plastic bag or anything that restricts air contact/air movement would not work. Instead we have two choices: spread them out very thin on a screen or force air to blow through them.

For the home grower, laying them out in a flat layer is the best option. An old screen door works well because it allows air to contact both the top and the bottom of the hop bed. Don’t make that bed too deep or the air won’t be able to remove moisture from the hops in the middle.

For anyone with 10 or more plants (of a single variety), this method would require WAY too many screen doors. Therefore you need to set up some method to blow air through the hops. That’s a much longer discussion about CFM, pressure drop and velocity that I won’t go into here but some key items to remember include:

- The more air the better. Increase the CFM/velocity to increase the amount of air contacting the hops.

- Be careful of velocities that are too high, especially if blowing up through the bed. As they dry, they become lighter and could blow out of your dryer or at least shake the lupulin out of the hops.

- Selection of a fan is more than CFM, it has to be CFM at the necessary pressure drop
 
Step 3: Make sure you are getting rid of the moisture

Too often I hear this, “I’ve got a fan blowing on my hops and the moisture is leaving them but I have another problem. There water running down the walls in my shed and it smells like mold.”

For every 1 pound of dried hops you expect to get, you need to get rid of approximately 4 pounds of moisture. This is A LOT of water. If you let them dry in a closed space, the air will rapidly saturate with moisture (hit 100% RH). That moisture will now condense on any surface it can find, like walls, ceilings and floors. It will also be so saturated that it will not be able to take any more water from the hops, regardless of the size of fan you use.

BE CERTAIN YOU ARE BRINGING FRESH AIR INTO THE ROOM YOU ARE DRYING IN.

A common misconception is that if it is raining outside, you should close the doors and windows to keep the moist air out. Using air at 99.9% relative humidity, you can still remove over 50% of the moisture. So if you are in the first 24 hours of drying, leave the windows open and let the fresh air in. It will remove more moisture than if you put those hops in a sealed up room. Again…

BE CERTAIN YOU ARE BRINGING FRESH AIR INTO THE ROOM YOU ARE DRYING IN.
 
Step 4: Lowering the relative humidity if needed.

For the homegrower, you want to get the moisture content of the hops down to 15% or less. Commercial growers are shooting for 12% or less depending on what is to be done for further processing.

Some of you (e.g. Colorado, Arizona, Nevada) will easily be able to reach that level using only outside air in 48 hours. The rest of us may need some help, especially if it is a humid week.

Again, the lower the relative humidity, the larger the driving force to pull moisture out of the hops and into the air. The big guys in the PNW achieve this by heating the air up so the whole drying process can be completed in 24 hours. Are you in that big of a rush? Probably not. So slow down and let them dry at lower temperatures.

If you have gone 2 days and they are not dry, its probably time to take it to the next step. On ideal location for most homegrowers is in an air conditioned house is wonderful but most SWMBO won’t put up with that smell.

Your next best option is to put them in a closet with a dehumidifier. If there is no closet available, get a tarp or piece of plastic and build a little tent around the hops and the dehumidifier. The smaller the space, the faster the hops will dry. If you try to dehumidify a large space (e.g. basement, kitchen) or a leaky space (e.g. garage), the dehumidifier will be too busy with that load to be able to take care of your hops. If you put them in a tiny place, the dehumidifier should quickly dry the hops out.
 
Step 5: When am I done?

As previously mentioned, you want to get well under 20% moisture content…meaning you want the hops to get to 1/4th to 1/5th of the original weight. Then you are free to package them up and pop them in your freezer for later use.

Following this method, you should be able to get down to 20% moisture content in 24 hours. One of the indicators is that the cone starts to open up like a pine cone that has fallen to the ground. They will also feel brittle with some of the bracts (leaves) easily falling away. If you snap them in half, the strig (stem) will still feel a moist when pressed to your lips, though.

Now bring them in the house or put them in a dehumidified tent. Depending on the size of the dehumidifier and the amount of moisture to be removed, the remaining time could be 1 hour to 2 days. When they are dry, the strig should still be a little supple but not moist. A few of the outer bracts may fall away but the whole cone shouldn’t shatter. If they are falling apart and turning to dust, you’ve hit 6% or less and way over dried.

To prevent overdrying, either check often or use a dehumidifier that you can set an RH setpoint of 45%. At 50%, the hops will equalize out to around 8.3% moisture content. This way they won’t overdry on you too quickly.
 
Summary
Lay them out on a screen 1 cone deep in a cool, dry area. Feel free to have a fan blowing lightly over them to move air across the hops.

BE CERTAIN YOU ARE BRINGING FRESH AIR INTO THE ROOM YOU ARE DRYING IN.

If you have too many hops to lay out on a screen, set up a drying apparatus that will blow air through them. Higher velocity is better, so ignore the PNW practice and blow DOWN through the hops. This way, you can use the strongest fan you can and they won’t blow away.

If you have waited 24 hours and they are not 23% of their original weight, put them in the smallest area you can with a dehumidifier or an air conditioned space.
 
That all sounds perfectly logical to me. I made three frames that hold large window screens, which each can hold about three pounds of cones without them layering. I stack them across a pair of saw horses with two 20" box fans perched on milk crates below, cover the top layer with screening, surround the stack with random pieces of plywood, and let 'er rip. I run the fans at high speed for the first 24 hours, then drop down to medium speed, where dry cones will dance a bit but not violently, and I can usually get the moisture content below 20% in 48 hours.
ab_aug_26_2011_12_sm.jpg


Cheers!
 
Thanks, I've spent A LOT of my time the last few years on drying and drying methods for hops and a few other herbs that are occasionally used for brewing. It always makes me cringe when I see a post by someone who is absolutely certain they can dry their hops in a paper bag or in a solar oven. They spent all this time and effort to grow these beautiful hops and now they are going to ruin them by letting them rot or baking them.

I'm working on several new drying variations and equipment, some of which may someday be applicable to the home grower. If everything works out, I'll share it this fall.
 
day_trippr said:
That all sounds perfectly logical to me. I made three frames that hold large window screens, which each can hold about three pounds of cones without them layering. I stack them across a pair of saw horses with two 20" box fans perched on milk crates below, cover the top layer with screening, surround the stack with random pieces of plywood, and let 'er rip. I run the fans at high speed for the first 24 hours, then drop down to medium speed, where dry cones will dance a bit but not violently, and I can usually get the moisture content below 20% in 48 hours.
ab_aug_26_2011_12_sm.jpg


Cheers!
Click to expand...

Hops spread out with plenty of air contact....check
Hops have air blown across them...check
Hops out of the sun and in a cool, dry place...check

Looks good to me. 1 suggestion, this year try hanging the fans above the hops to blow down on them. They will probably shake less as the fan will push them into the screen. Just be careful of them blowing around toward the end if the airflow is too much.
 
Forgive my ignorance, but why must the hops be dried at all? As a homegrower/homebrewer, couldn't I just pick them, vacuum pack then, and freeze them immediately? What is drying doing for us? Is the drying for preservation? Just preservation? How long would undried and immediately frozen hops last? Or is that just a non-starter?

thanks for the informative post!
 
GVH_Dan said:
Step 5: When am I done?

As previously mentioned, you want to get well under 20% moisture content…meaning you want the hops to get to 1/4th to 1/5th of the original weight. Then you are free to package them up and pop them in your freezer for later use.

Following this method, you should be able to get down to 20% moisture content in 24 hours. One of the indicators is that the cone starts to open up like a pine cone that has fallen to the ground. They will also feel brittle with some of the bracts (leaves) easily falling away. If you snap them in half, the strig (stem) will still feel a moist when pressed to your lips, though.

Now bring them in the house or put them in a dehumidified tent. Depending on the size of the dehumidifier and the amount of moisture to be removed, the remaining time could be 1 hour to 2 days. When they are dry, the strig should still be a little supple but not moist. A few of the outer bracts may fall away but the whole cone shouldn’t shatter. If they are falling apart and turning to dust, you’ve hit 6% or less and way over dried.

To prevent overdrying, either check often or use a dehumidifier that you can set an RH setpoint of 45%. At 50%, the hops will equalize out to around 8.3% moisture content. This way they won’t overdry on you too quickly.
Click to expand...

What kind of issues are there with over drying? I dry my hops with dehydrators, set to the lowest setting (95 degrees, I think). Works great, but I leave for work and by the time I get home, they are dryer than I'd like.

They fall apart more easily, but the beer is good and they still smell great when I'm cleaning out the freezer for the next harvest. I imagine I might be losing some lupulin because they fall apart more easily, but they're homegrown and the AA is a guestimate already and I'm adjusting from previous batches.
 
Obviously, you could use them as a wet hop and not dry them at all. By freezing them, you are trying to preserve all the "wet hop" characteristics.

The primary reason for drying is for preservation. If you just freeze them wet, the shelf life is probably going to be 3 months or less before there is observable degradation of the oils and alphas. If you could freeze them by dropping them in liquid nitrogen, you would probably do better but most people don't have access to that. If you do follow this method, throw them in the kettle frozen. All the lupulin glands will have burst in the freezing process and if you let it thaw you may loose oils and alphas.

Also remember a wet hop weighs 4 to 5 times that of a dry hop.

Properly dried and vacuum packed, you can easily go a year before any degradation occurs. if they are vacuum flushed and in UV proof packaging...now you are talking 18 months or more. They are still good after that, they just won't have the same alpha and oil levels as at the start.

There are/may be some secondary benefits to drying, too. For example, a lot of people complain that wet hop beers taste "grassy", well a lot of that comes from an oil called Farnesene. Farnesene has a pretty low boiling point so a lot of it evaporates during the drying process.

Going really deep into it, there are other compounds present in hops that either evaporate or oxidize during the drying process. Our chemist would be a better person to talk about this but there are some sulfur based compounds the cones produce to, we believe, ward off pests. During the drying process, these may oxidize into compounds that don't effect the final flavor of the beer. Otherwise we've heard brewer's complain their beer tastes like "burnt rubber".

Two of my partners are spending a lot of time working with members of the ASBC Hop Council examining some of these compounds and determining how to retain and/or get rid of a lot of them in the drying process. Actually, one of my partners is in Czechoslovakia right now meeting with the EU Hop Research Council in Zatec to discuss this issue and explain our drying research.

OK, that was a pretty long answer...drying is primarily for preservation but also gets rid of the "wet hop" flavor that many do not care for. There's the short answer.
 
BBBF said:
What kind of issues are there with over drying? I dry my hops with dehydrators, set to the lowest setting (95 degrees, I think). Works great, but I leave for work and by the time I get home, they are dryer than I'd like.

They fall apart more easily, but the beer is good and they still smell great when I'm cleaning out the freezer for the next harvest. I imagine I might be losing some lupulin because they fall apart more easily, but they're homegrown and the AA is a guestimate already and I'm adjusting from previous batches.
Click to expand...

"Falling apart" is the main problem. Below 6% the bracts (leaves) fall off and there is nothing to hold the luplin in. What I find is the bracts have all blown away, the lupulin is a golden powder on the floor and whatever is left in the dryer is too brittle to scoop up.

In the commercial world, once the lupulin hits the floor the game is over. We can't sweep it up and throw it into the cones. In the homegrower world...well that's up to you.

If you overdry, there is also a good chance the luplin packet will split and out goes the oils and alpha. Now you have hop dust with a lot less of the good stuff.


To bring together this question and the last one, its probably better to under-dry and freeze than over dry or not dry at all. Get the hops down to 20%, which is easy, and then freeze them. They should be able to last a year until the next harvest is ready.
 
GVH_Dan said:
drying methods for hops and a few other herbs
Click to expand...
DO GO ON...

BBBF said:
What kind of issues are there with over drying? (...) I imagine I might be losing some lupulin because they fall apart more easily
Click to expand...
those lupulin glands contain more than just AA. they contain essential oils that make huge contributions to the aroma and flavor of the hops, and these are easily cooked off... so you're loosing them.

the idea behind drying hops is to balance getting them dry enough so you can preserve them, while not drying them more than you have to and loosing all the good stuff.
 
sweetcell said:
DO GO ON...
Click to expand...

Nooo...I'm talking nettles, Mugwort, Heather Tips, Lavender, etc.

Even though I get a lot of phone calls from "Medicinal Herb" growers looking for drying advice, at this point I have nothing to offer them. As soon as someone talks about "sweating" their hop cones, I just hang up.

Though if anyone knows of a definitive, scientific source for information on drying any type of herb or "herb", please send me a PM. I would be interested. I can build apparatus that can control to any temperature, humidity and/or windspeed but that doesn't mean I know the optimal drying procedure for lavender, nettles or anything else.
 
Weezy said:
Forgive my ignorance, but why must the hops be dried at all? As a homegrower/homebrewer, couldn't I just pick them, vacuum pack then, and freeze them immediately? What is drying doing for us? Is the drying for preservation? Just preservation? How long would undried and immediately frozen hops last? Or is that just a non-starter?

thanks for the informative post!
Click to expand...

Great question. Does anyone have any thoughts on this?
 
Chromebrew said:
Great question. Does anyone have any thoughts on this?
Click to expand...

he responded quite thoroughly in post#16. Although, as a scientist, I'm not sold. There are a handful of production wet hop beers available, so a wholesale rejection of using wet hops is not true. I'm not convinced that the tradition of drying is little more than a tradition out of necessity for preservation, from times predating refrigerated and frozen transportation. The brewing process is replete with blind traditions. But I'm a know-nothing, nobody.
 
Oh, I'm not rejecting wet hops beers. Quite to the contrary, there are a number that I quite enjoy. I've just noted on this forum and elsewhere people complaining about the "grassy" or "spicy" flavor their homegrown hops have added to the beer. I can't say for 100%, because I'm not a chemist, but I'm fairly certain that if you don't go through a drying process many of those wet hop flavors will remain. Whether that is good or bad is up to you.

You are right, there are a lot of things that are simply tradition. For example, they way the industry dries their hops is totally based on tradition and not really a lot of science. The big guys dry to 8% to 10% for hops to be pelletized. We started with that but found there was no reason to go that dry so we raised it to 12% and the pelletizer still works. I'm guessing the processors figured that if they were paying $x/lb, less water meant cheaper hops?

That aside, where my expertise does lie is in refrigeration and freezing. I can tell you that if you take wet hops, through them in a pouch and chuck them in the freezer you will not have a long life expectancy. First, the freezing process will be so slow that the ice crystals will pierce the lupulin glans allowing the oils and other compounds to leak out. Despite the 0F of your freezer, they probably will leak because their freezing point is much lower. Then you add in the "frost free" feature of your freezer that warms the whole thing up in cycles, and you will get a lot of movement of moisture and other components of your hop. This will lead to "freezer burn" (no big deal) but it may also allow the oils and what not to deposit on the packaging instead of he hops.

That's why my suggestion is if you are going to freeze your hops wet, do so in weights that you will use for brewing (remembering that 1 oz dried = 4.8 ozs wet, or so). When its time to brew, open the package up and dump the whole thing in. Also, try to freeze them as quickly as possible. So have them in a spot of the freezer where they will get air contact, not just shoved in between the chicken, deer sausage and under the frozen pizza.

I have looked into freeze drying, but from what I can tell you would still loose oils as fast as drying them at 140F or higher.

I'm pretty sure the best way to do the freezing method would be to drop them in liquid nitrogen and store in a chest freezer as cold as possible.
 
if you freeze hops without drying them, the water would bust up the cellular structure of the hop. when you thawed them out they would warm up to a goo. if you think hops are hard to deal with now (filtering then out, etc), just wait until they become one with the liquid they are boiled with.

one of the reasons that it is recommended that you freeze fruit before adding them to secondary is to facilitate cellular breakdown. in secondary this might be good, in the boil or in primary (dry-hopping) this is a pain.
 
thanks for the replies. I don't intend to be argumentative. I'm just a bit of a skeptic anymore. Seemingly every time I turn around, some tradition is being discounted based on new research.

The weight issue is a real good point!

I have not grown or used fresh hops but I do garden and freeze home grown veggies. "Goo" is a bit of stretch? My wax beans, asparagus, brussel sprouts, etc. don't exactly turn into mush (and I've got a giant 1960's vintage frost freezer)....although this could very well be a stickier issue with non-dried hops, for sure!
 
Skepticism is good. The most important question you can ask is "Why?" That question is why we are challenging so many of the traditions. Some are accurate. Some are good for limited situations. Others a just wrong or outdated.

Keep that freezer for your veggies. They are actually better since they were built before the tree huggers forced the manufacturers to make appliances that save energy by creating appliances that barely get the job done.
 
This is my first year growing hops, but I've gone all out with 10 plants and 4 varieties. How does one accomodate multiple screens? I had originally pictured building 4 separate tray "screens" and putting them horizontal with a few inches inbetween, with a high CFM box fan blowing across all of the trays. Does that make sense?
 
First, you probably won't have all 4 varieties come due at the same time, but I guess its better to be safe than sorry.

Yep, just build yourself 4 screens to lay them out upon. The airflow is nice but not entirely necessary. It will speed the process, just make sure the fan isn't blowing the hops off the screen.
 
Geordan said:
[...] How does one accomodate multiple screens? I had originally pictured building 4 separate tray "screens" and putting them horizontal with a few inches inbetween, with a high CFM box fan blowing across all of the trays. Does that make sense?
Click to expand...

Pretty much. If you build your frames square and to a consistent size they stack easily. I made my frames from 1x3 clear pine, routed slots to hold fairly large window screens, screwed them together at the corners, then stack them three high over a pair of box fans when drying. I don't put any spacers between the frames as that would let the air escape between frames rather than continuing upward. Ref post #8 in this thread...

Cheers!
 
sweetcell said:
if you freeze hops without drying them, the water would bust up the cellular structure of the hop. when you thawed them out they would warm up to a goo. if you think hops are hard to deal with now (filtering then out, etc), just wait until they become one with the liquid they are boiled with.
Click to expand...

That is immediately what came to mind for me.

Reminds me of time I tried making stir fry from some home frozen veggies... more like stir stew!
 
I am no engineer or physicist but I would design a box so the fan(s) pulled the air in through the top and exhaust out the bottom. Pulled air flows more uniformly than pushed if I am not mistaken and there would be a greater deal of certainty that it was being pulled through the layers instead of blowing off the top.
 
Exactly...sorry if I didn't mention that.

To increase drying rate, you need to increase the amount of air contacting the hops, thus you need to increase the velocity (and volume) of air. You can't do this blowing up because the hops will eventually become light enough to blow all over. Instead, drawing the air down through a bed of hops will allow you 3 to 4x's the airflow.

Its also easier to draw it through than push it through since pushing the air will, as you noted, result in non-uniform airflow that will move hops around. Drawing it through will be more uniform.

Be careful of fan selection and hop depth, though. A box fan from the drugstore will move almost 3,000 CFM but at 0" pressure drop. As soon as you put a layer of hops in front of it, that will drop to 500 cfm. By the time you are a foot deep, that fan wont be able to do a thing. An old furnace fan will do much better.
 
GVH_Dan said:
Be careful of fan selection and hop depth, though. A box fan from the drugstore will move almost 3,000 CFM but at 0" pressure drop. As soon as you put a layer of hops in front of it, that will drop to 500 cfm. By the time you are a foot deep, that fan wont be able to do a thing. An old furnace fan will do much better.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the advice on fans. I figured box fans were only good moving air in/ out of the drying room.

While I'm at it... thank you for all of the great info in this thread. Hopefully I will need a bigger rack next season.
 
Thanks for the great and detailed advice. I harvested some Magnum earlier this week but got about 0.9 oz form 3 oz wet after drying. The leaves felt papery to me so I just froze them. I'll be using them tomorrow so even if the moisture is a bit higher than recommend I should be fine, right?

Will harvest Cascade and Centennial tomorrow for a wet hops APA! I'm thrilled but I've never had a wet hops beer so hopefully I won't be disappointed. :mug:

EDIT: I used some metal wire mesh stapled to a wooden frame and had a regular oscillating floor fan blowing on it directly from the top. The hops were dried after ~36 h.
 
If you can get an old furnace fan, it should be able to handle a 4' x 4' drying surface that is up to 2 feet deep in hops. That's roughly 20 to 30 plants worth of hops.

The only danger, the cones will find a way into the fan's blade, clog them up and send your airflow to nothing. Picking them out is next to impossible. I usually leave it sit over the winter and torch them out in the spring when they are good and dry. I've had fans so full of cones, it was basically hopping due to the weight imbalance.
 
funnycreature said:
Thanks for the great and detailed advice. I harvested some Magnum earlier this week but got about 0.9 oz form 3 oz wet after drying. The leaves felt papery to me so I just froze them. I'll be using them tomorrow so even if the moisture is a bit higher than recommend I should be fine, right?/QUOTE]

A day or two is perfectly fine. You wouldn't want to hold them until next year, though.

And since you are freezing them, throw them in frozen so they don't fall apart. Also treat them as if they were .6 to .7 oz as far as your recipe goes.
Click to expand...
 
GVH_Dan said:
funnycreature said:
Thanks for the great and detailed advice. I harvested some Magnum earlier this week but got about 0.9 oz form 3 oz wet after drying. The leaves felt papery to me so I just froze them. I'll be using them tomorrow so even if the moisture is a bit higher than recommend I should be fine, right?
Click to expand...

A day or two is perfectly fine. You wouldn't want to hold them until next year, though.

And since you are freezing them, throw them in frozen so they don't fall apart. Also treat them as if they were .6 to .7 oz as far as your recipe goes.
Click to expand...

Will do! It's good getting advice from a pro :ban:
 
Hey Dan,

Would you mind sharing just a bit about static pressure and hops? I am trying to figure out if these two fans I have will be enough to pull air through a design I am working on.

The blowers I have will each do 105cfm at 0.5" SP, but I'm not sure how hops affect the pressure.

My design is a box on the bottom, housing the two blowers, venting out the bottom. I plan to make 3" deep trays to stack on top. The inside volume of 6 trays would be just over 12 cu. ft.

So, my question is, what is the SP curve for hop bed depth?

Thanks for any help you can give,

MT
 

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