Filtering while racking?
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dantodd
Well-Known Member
You really shouldn't filter that way. Pantyhose will not filter out yeast but they will introduce oxygen at a really bad time for the beer and will also dramatically increase your chances of getting an infection. If you cold crash your fermenter before taking it should help tighten up your trub cake making it easier to rack clean beer. Also, taking from a "primary" to a secondary is canrarely needed. In most cases you can extend primary until fermentation is complete and go right to packaging.
I dont see how a sterilized piece of nylon would give you infection anymore than would a sterilized racking cane.Im not understanding the introducing oxygen it would do also,it is just filtering sediment. I did this with a pale ale that i put all the wort in primary and decided i didnt want the floating pieces so i used a piece of nylon rubberbanded around the end of the siphon and if anything i got less bubbles because at the end it leaves a little more liquid because of the denser amount of yeast trying to get in the tube at the end.
Its probably unnessacary to filter to secondary really.
Its probably unnessacary to filter to secondary really.
Yes, there will still be plenty of yeast if you strain through pantyhose. If you are careful when racking you shouldnt need to strain. If really concerned, you can soak a 5 gallon paint strainer bag in star san for 5 min. Then wrap it around your auto siphon when racking to your secondary...
It just means cooling your fermenter so the suspended yeast drops out more quickly. I don't do this though. I think you'll find in the third week of primary the beer will become much clearer. If you wait four weeks, the yeast cake will be very compressed and almost no yeast should stir up while racking.
You also wont want to cold crash until right before botteling so the beer can be awake and condition it after fermentation, you want it doing its thing so you dont end up having an unconditioned beer. It will just stall the progress. You can get as good of effect as sticking them in the fridge 2 weeks after they are carbed and conditioned.
I wouldn't rack through pantyhose going into secondary. There are several reasons, but it boils down to a risk of aeration by clogging or slowing down the siphon. Remember that most of the heavy particles will have fallen out by the time fermentation is over and the beer is ready to rack. If you start your siphon from above the trub, you shouldn't have any problems with particles.
The idea behind a secondary is for clearing. The word "secondary fermenter" is a misnomer, since fermentation is complete before the beer is moved to that vessel. In a pro brewery, it would be called a "bright tank"- where finished beer is clearing. Because you're moving it to a vessel for clearing, you don't have to try to filter it on the way into that vessel. It's just not needed, plus has risks involved.
I don't use a secondary very often any more, as I think the risk of aerating the beer isn't worth the possible limited benefit. The beer will clear just fine in the primary. The beer won't clear just because it's moved- it will clear because of allowing it to have time to clear. The vessel it's in doesn't matter.
The idea behind a secondary is for clearing. The word "secondary fermenter" is a misnomer, since fermentation is complete before the beer is moved to that vessel. In a pro brewery, it would be called a "bright tank"- where finished beer is clearing. Because you're moving it to a vessel for clearing, you don't have to try to filter it on the way into that vessel. It's just not needed, plus has risks involved.
I don't use a secondary very often any more, as I think the risk of aerating the beer isn't worth the possible limited benefit. The beer will clear just fine in the primary. The beer won't clear just because it's moved- it will clear because of allowing it to have time to clear. The vessel it's in doesn't matter.
wolverinebrewer
Well-Known Member
To answer the question: Yes, you will have enough yeast.
My question is why are you doing this? You didn't say what your brew was. It makes a difference. Is it going on fruit or going to be dry-hopped? These are the only reasons IMO that you should move the brew. The only time I filter is when its going to the bottling bucket and I have dry-hopped or made the SWMO a fruit beer. Even before I do this, my beer is already clear (depending on style).
Just 30 minutes ago I racked a blond ale over onto 2 lbs whole strawberries. This was in a primary bucket for 3 weeks and was already very clear. In a week, I will put a sanitized 1 gal. paint strainer bag over the end of the outlet hose just to catch any floating pieces of fruit or seeds. The bag lays on the bottom of the bottle bucket. I let the bag hang off the hose about 3" to let the particles go somewhere instead of clogging the hose.
If you are not doing these two things, I would leave it alone. Like the others have said, it will clear on its own. Be patient young jedi.
Thanks for all your advice guys, the reason I asked is I brewed last Saturday and used Danstar Windsor, the yeast stunk REALLY bad, I've been checking my gravity every couple days and the beer still smells like the yeast. I figured if I racked it off the sediment it may loose the yeast smell? Maybe I should just let it ride?
Its probably gonna smell like yeast because yeast eat sugar that makes beer making it beer from themselves- personally the yeast.Did i mention they eat sugar and make beer? Ha he
Its probably gonna smell like yeast because yeast eat sugar that makes beer making it beer from themselves- personally the yeast.Did i mention they eat sugar and make beer? Ha he
I guess I'm worrying for not, reason is, I've made a few other batches that smelled like really good beer through fermentation, nothing like this. I'll let it sit. Thanks again guys.
dantodd
Well-Known Member
Bluedog said:
As long as your temp is in line don't worry about the yeast creating any off flavors. Some yeasts give our lots of sulfur the first few days they also create a lot of off flavors as they reproduce, most notably, diacetyl. If you raise the temp 5 or even 10 degrees for the last few points of attenuation it helps the yeast metabolize some of those flavors. After sanitation, temperature control is the most important factor in creating excellent beer.
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