The right burner for the right purpose?

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brewfeller

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Hey guys,
I am building my first all grain homebrew system and decided on trying a HERMS system here it is... [ame]http://www.vimeo.com/15907452[/ame]

I currently have they cheapo turkey fryer burners on it and was pretty disapointed with the heating time on those... I just bought the 0-30 psi Bayou Classic style regulator to put on those to see if it will help before moving on to looking at a Banjo or 10 tip propane jet burner.
I am fairly familiar with the pros and cons of each of these style burners by reading the threads on this forum. But on my HERMS system I want a burner on my HLT/ heat exchanger that can get my strike water up to temp quickly but that I can also have fine flame control to maintain that temp or slowly raise temp of the heat exchanger if step mashing. Which burner fits these requirements? Some have claimed success in flame control using the regulator I mentioned on the 23 tip Jet burner.
I noticed that Bobby M. thinks the 23 tip jet burner is probably overkill.
In most of the videos that I have seen the Jet burners are incredibly loud.
for that reason alone I may consider the banjo. It's just kind of confusing and I want to make sure I get the right burner with the right kind of control for my HLT/ Heat Exchanger.

Obviously the burner on the brew kettle only has to raise the temp of the wort from around 160 to 212 so it doesn't have to be a monster burner right?
Thanks in advance for your input!
 
The 4" metalfusion brand burners will work Ok if the air shutter is closed to the point the flame tips turn yellow. While they burn clean and noisy with more air, the heat escapes from under the keg faster without doing much heating. Another tip is to cut a vent opening in the keg skirt to let the combustion products out instead of drowning the burner. A 6" section cut out of the bottom skirt works well when on the back side away from the activities on the front side.
 
i read very little complaints from the banjo burner. I much prefer it's many small flames which seem to spread the heat more evenly under the keg rather than the the large flume which has the problems kladue describes. Mine maintains a nice boil at a fairly low setting.
 
The 4" metalfusion brand burners will work Ok if the air shutter is closed to the point the flame tips turn yellow. While they burn clean and noisy with more air, the heat escapes from under the keg faster without doing much heating. Another tip is to cut a vent opening in the keg skirt to let the combustion products out instead of drowning the burner. A 6" section cut out of the bottom skirt works well when on the back side away from the activities on the front side.

FYI, venting the skirt actually reduces the burner efficiency and by a significant margin I recently tested this as the basic concept seemed to be sound. I did before and after tests bringing six gallons of water to a boil from the same starting temperature. The kettle with the skirt vented took 30% longer to reach a boil. It was about 40 minutes vented vs 30 minutes un-vented. I really wish I had not done this modification.
 
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