Prepping to rack, not sure if ready.

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Rainman667

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Feeling good about my first batch. Brewed last Sunday (6 days back) things have been chugging along nicely since. Checked the gravity last night to see how close we are getting to FG and I am getting close, so I was thinking shifting to the carboy Sunday/Monday, but a funny thing happened by this morning. The airlock is no longer percolating is this;

A) legitimately done.
B) no longer sealed right
C) trying to get back to critical pressure
D) something else?

Thanks team
 
E-none of the above. When bubbling slows or stops it's just initial fermentation that's done. It'll now slowly,uneventfully creep down to FG. Then give it another 3-7 days to clean up by products & settle out clear or slightly misty. Then package.
 
So you are saying I am not going to see anything interesting happen once it is in the carboy either, and that I should not panic when I don't see anything?

I'm anxious and impatient I suppose.
 
If its only been six days i think you still have another nine days before you should rack into secondary.
 
I even dry hop in primary. Unless I'm oaking or aging or the like,I leave it in primary till it hits FG. Then another 3-7 days to clean up & settle out clear or slightly misty.
 
Any brew you make has a minimum of 30 day fermentation ...usually 15 days in primary and 15 days in secondary if you are adding anything otherwise its 30 in primary then rack to bottling vessel add your priming sugars and bottle ..let condition for a minimum of 15 more days and enjoy
 
Any brew you make has a minimum of 30 day fermentation ...usually 15 days in primary and 15 days in secondary if you are adding anything otherwise its 30 in primary then rack to bottling vessel add your priming sugars and bottle ..let condition for a minimum of 15 more days and enjoy

Followup question than. The directions I have for this tell me one week in the primary and one week in the secondary before 3 weeks in the bottles. What I have found poking around this site seems to say "just wait another week", or "Another week in the fermenter", and I am being told less time in the bottle is needed. What affect do changes like these have the final product? the total elapsed time from start to drink remains the same but the conditions to get there change.
 
It'll still take 3-4 weeks in bottles to carb & condition,& at least a week fridge time to settle out any chill haze,& get co2 into solution more fully. The dufference is,clearer beer with less trub in the bottom of the bottles to worry about come time to pour a glass. More visual appeal,besides none of that yeasty turbid taste.
 
Any brew you make has a minimum of 30 day fermentation ...usually 15 days in primary and 15 days in secondary if you are adding anything otherwise its 30 in primary then rack to bottling vessel add your priming sugars and bottle ..let condition for a minimum of 15 more days and enjoy

That's a bit of a blanket statement (as far as the fermentation period goes). I let my pale ales and IPAs go for about 10 days before I keg them. No sense in letting them sit in the bucket/carboy if they are done and taste good...
 
Most of the time,depending on the yeast,It'll take a couple weks to hit FG,then 3-7 days to settle out clear or alightly misty. I've observed this over many batches with a few different yeasts. Less trub equals more clear beer.
 
Hey rainman, what kind of beer did u brew? I too brewed my very first beer as well! Mine was a clone of Fullers ESB. The directions also said a week in the primary but 2-3 weeks in the secondary.

By day two it was bubbling at a good rate but every day since its lost steam. Today it's almost totally stopped. I did see it bubble once today which means its still fermenting. I think I'll check the gravity tomorrow and if its rdy I'll go to secondary.

I've heard a lot of extract kits get stuck and don't quite get to final gravity.
 
Pelican,
We are working on a Kolsch from Austin Homebrew. I was told a week in the primary, a week in the secondary and three in the bottles. As I have watched it today I am still getting bubbles, just much slower than a few days ago. it seems this may be the natural cycle.

some of my concerns stem from the fact that chemistry was my worst subject ever (I know it's not rocket Surgery but still), I think I misread/used the hydrometer on day one, I used an alcohol boost so my numbers will be off anyway, and (oh yeah) my girlfriend works for the health department, so all of the fears about sanitization are raised to the n-th degree... Joy!
 
Airlock activity has no bearing on the progress of fermentation. After primary fermentation (when all the CO2, and airlock activity, is created), they go to work cleaning up after themselves, removing some compounds that lead to off flavors such as acetaldehyde and diacetyl.

I would just let it ride in the primary for a couple more weeks, and then bottle. There really is no benefit to racking to secondary unless you intend to age a beer for a very long time or making any additions (such as fruit.) Honestly, you only risk infection by racking to secondary.

In short relax, let it ride and assure your girlfriend that nothing harmful can grow in beer :mug:.
 
As everyone else has stated, why do you want to rack the beer? You don't have to......And if you to go oldschool like all the old books promulgate, then I suggest you take a grav reading on day 10 or 12 and again 2 days later, if the gravity has stayed the same THEN you should rack it. But as you can see, for most "normal" beers, many folks just leave our beers in primary for that same amount of time (a month) then bottle or keg. With modern yeast secondary is really useless.
 
Followup question than. The directions I have for this tell me one week in the primary and one week in the secondary before 3 weeks in the bottles. What I have found poking around this site seems to say "just wait another week", or "Another week in the fermenter", and I am being told less time in the bottle is needed. What affect do changes like these have the final product? the total elapsed time from start to drink remains the same but the conditions to get there change.

Rainman, the longer you leave it in the primary the better your brew will taste meaning even if your bubbling has stopped (which by the way is really no indication of fermentation rate) your yeast is still.alive and creating a tasting drink...If you remove it.early you'll end up with a watery mess. May i suggest you enter your recipe on BeerSmith (or brewersfriend) and see the guidelines ... it will tell you how long to leave it I'm the vessels ...by rule of thumb its usually a 6 weeks process at its minimum to have good beer... many of us have experienced rushing to taste and learned the hard way that beer taste better when you allow the yeast to work.
 
That's a bit of a blanket statement (as far as the fermentation period goes). I let my pale ales and IPAs go for about 10 days before I keg them. No sense in letting them sit in the bucket/carboy if they are done and taste good...

Why would it be a blanket statement ? Have you tried leaving your brew on the trub for 30 days? It actually improves the appearance and taste... I've made brews that I've left on the trub for 6 weeks and its been the most polished brews I've made to date
 
I too leave mine in primary. 3-5 weeks depending on the particular brew. When you see all the mad bubbling slow or stop,it just means initial fermentation is done. It'll slowly,uneventfully creep down to FG from there. When FG is reached,I give it another 3-7 days to clean up & settle out clear or slightly misty. Then package. The beer will be better for it.
 
Any brew you make has a minimum of 30 day fermentation ...usually 15 days in primary and 15 days in secondary if you are adding anything otherwise its 30 in primary then rack to bottling vessel add your priming sugars and bottle ..let condition for a minimum of 15 more days and enjoy

I don't think "minimum of 30 days" is really a valid rule of thumb. Sure, some people like the yeast character imparted by a 30 day primary, or a total of thirty days in a fermenter, but many don't.

I'm a proponent of leaving the beer in the fermenter for at least three days after FG is reached, and until the beer is clear. That could be on day 7, day 10, or even day 15. But I have never left a beer in primary more than three weeks, and most far less time.

Normally, I have a beer in a fermenter about 10 days. A well made beer doesn't need more time than that normally.
 
Why would it be a blanket statement ? Have you tried leaving your brew on the trub for 30 days? It actually improves the appearance and taste... I've made brews that I've left on the trub for 6 weeks and its been the most polished brews I've made to date

See, for many people it doesn't "improve the appearance and taste". Sure, you may like it. But others may have other preferences.

My assertion is that a well-made beer is NOT improved by a longer time in the fermenter, but that it may not hurt if a beer has some issues (clarity, off-flavors).

There have been some experiments down by Basic Brewing Radio, where some people preferred the taste of beer in a 30 day primary over a 10 day primary. And the reverse as well. It was about even on preferences, although nearly everyone noticed differences. (Basic Brewing Radio has podcasts- this subject is a good one to give a listen to. You can find it on Itunes, or on their website).

A blanket statement of "your beer needs 30 days!" is what I take issue with. I also wouldn't say that "your beer only needs 10 days". It's really a matter of preference.

But I do a 7-10 day time in the fermenter normally. My beers are pretty darn good.
 
instructions with the kit want you to rush it so you'll buy another kit sooner.

here on the HBT boards have nothing to gain by you rushing to drink your beer.

if you're in this to make alcohol and get as drunk as possible as soon as possible, by all means - bottle it and drink it in a week. you'll have made beer

if you're in it for the craft, the art, that feeling of "I made this beer and it's GOOD!" then listen to what unionrdr has said 14 times in just this thread alone:
I too leave mine in primary. 3-5 weeks depending on the particular brew. When you see all the mad bubbling slow or stop,it just means initial fermentation is done. It'll slowly,uneventfully creep down to FG from there. When FG is reached,I give it another 3-7 days to clean up & settle out clear or slightly misty. Then package. The beer will be better for it.

personally, I pitch it and forget it for 3 weeks (but always checking temperature), take my hydro reading, bottle then forget it again for another 3 weeks (again, check temperatures)

always considering trying to brew the best brew I can
 
I didn't think I mentioned it that many times in this thread. But it is a mantra I preach daily. Give the beer the time it needs to get down to a stable FG,however long that takes. Keep temps within the yeast's range. Then another 3-7 days it takes to clean up & settle out clear or slightly misty. This gets the yeasty tastes out,along with other by products of fermentation percieved as flaws in higher concentrations. The yeast feed on these compounds after the simple sugars are finished. Hence the 3-7 day clean-n-clear period I preach about. You can't rush the goodness.:mug:
 
Guys, thanks for the great advice on this thread. I too am due to go to my secondary today for my clone of Fullers ESB (per the instructions).

GrogNerd, makes total sense on how the instructions want you to rush so you will buy another kit. Being a creative in marketing you'd think I would have guessed that... But being my very first brew I wanted to go "by the book" so to speak...

That being said, I'd rather this beer come as awesome as possible and I was hoping to would clear up as well so it would present well.

My kit says to go to secondary on day 7 and dryhop for 2-3 weeks more. I've heard I can dryhop in the primary, is it done the same way. i.e. boil bag for 10 min, put in hops and just simply drop in primary? Or should I go to my secondary to dryhop it?

Also, would it makes sense to wait a few more days before I dryhop?

Again, I'm looking for a great beer and don't want to rush it.

Thanks!
 
Guys, thanks for the great advice on this thread. I too am due to go to my secondary today for my clone of Fullers ESB (per the instructions).

GrogNerd, makes total sense on how the instructions want you to rush so you will buy another kit. Being a creative in marketing you'd think I would have guessed that... But being my very first brew I wanted to go "by the book" so to speak...

That being said, I'd rather this beer come as awesome as possible and I was hoping to would clear up as well so it would present well.

My kit says to go to secondary on day 7 and dryhop for 2-3 weeks more. I've heard I can dryhop in the primary, is it done the same way. i.e. boil bag for 10 min, put in hops and just simply drop in primary? Or should I go to my secondary to dryhop it?

Also, would it makes sense to wait a few more days before I dryhop?

Again, I'm looking for a great beer and don't want to rush it.

Thanks!

For the best flavor and aroma from the dryhops, I am a big proponent of dryhopping for the last 5-7 days before bottling or kegging. So if I'm dryhopping something, I add the hops about 5 days before I plan to package the beer.

I don't use hops bags, but I'm an old winemaker and am very proficient with racking. If you're not, using a sanitized hops bag is fine. Just make sure the hops are "loose" in the bag and not packed in so the beer can permeate the hops.
 
^^This. And make sure the beer is at FG & cleared nicely first. Don't want the hop oils to coat settling yeast & go to the bottom.
 
Why would it be a blanket statement ? Have you tried leaving your brew on the trub for 30 days? It actually improves the appearance and taste... I've made brews that I've left on the trub for 6 weeks and its been the most polished brews I've made to date

I used to belong to the long primary crew, but once I started experimenting for myself I quickly learned that longer primaries didn't gain me anything for 95% of the beers I brew.

A blanket statement of "your beer needs 30 days!" is what I take issue with. I also wouldn't say that "your beer only needs 10 days". It's really a matter of preference.

To be clear, I wasn't saying that 10 days is a hard and fast rule (as those rarely exist in homebrewing), rather that the notion of 30 days in primary 'because that's what everyone else does' is absurd. In the end, do whatever you prefer, but please avoid absolute statements in the discussion.
 
Oh ok, thx. So how does this sound;

Let sit another week in primary, then make sure I've hit FG and then dryhop for another week then bottle?

Sound right for this type of beer?

Thx!
 
I used to belong to the long primary crew, but once I started experimenting for myself I quickly learned that longer primaries didn't gain me anything for 95% of the beers I brew.

And I think it's a vocal minority who do advocate a super long primary. The people I talk with the most about brewing normally do something similar to what I do. And if they happen to leave the beer in primary for 3-4 weeks, it's usually not on purpose, just that life gets in the way sometimes. (I'm looking at you, lschiavo! :p)

I think anytime someone says to "leave your beer for XXXX days" or any other brewing absolute that it should be considered something that works for them and perhaps something to consider.

There are few absolutes in brewing. There are a few, like sanitizing, yeast health, temperature control, etc, that are always important. But even then, how you get there is up to differences in technique.

Even with water chemistry, my "imaginary" friend Mabrungard likes higher sulfate beers than I do. Neither one of us is wrong, as people like what they like. It's just another tool to use to get the results you want.

As far as fermentation, there are a few things touched on in here that are always true. The first is that a properly made beer (proper amount of yeast pitched at the proper temperature and kept at the proper temperature) will have a period of active fermentation that will drop off. After that, for about 24 hours or so, the yeast will keep working. That is when they go back, still scouring for digestible sugars and such, and digest other non-preferential foods. They then will even digest some of their own waste products. That's part of the "clean up" phase of fermentation. After that, the beer will start to clear.

That is why most experienced brewers will tell you to wait until the beer is done, and then wait 3 more days at least before transferring. That allows that process to finish, and does produce a better quality beer. If you go more than 3 days longer, that's fine. And some people do just that, and routinely go a month longer. Some people don't.

Try it for yourself, and see which flavors you prefer. That's the best way to determine the value of our advice!
 
New question than (and I appreciate all of your help and insight thus far).

many people are saying skip the secondary, bottle from the primary. Is the unsaid step "put it in a bucket to mix the priming sugar" or how do I evenly distribute the sugar without stirring up the trub and transferring that to bottles?
 
Well said. I changed things a little myself in that I started taking closer notice to when the ber is finished. Then the 3-7 day bit I observed some time ago over several brews. I observed that it cleans up & settles out nearly at the same time. So pay closer attention to what's really going on under given circumstances folks. That's how I learn some things. Part of science is obsevation after setting up a given experiment. Just watch a few times a day if you can to see when what happens & the result.
 
New question than (and I appreciate all of your help and insight thus far).

many people are saying skip the secondary, bottle from the primary. Is the unsaid step "put it in a bucket to mix the priming sugar" or how do I evenly distribute the sugar without stirring up the trub and transferring that to bottles?

I can't speak for everyone, but I don't use a secondary fermenter in most cases. However, I do transfer to a bottling bucket that has corn sugar in it before I transfer to bottles. I don't really "mix" it to avoid oxidation, but I add the sweetened liquid first and the transfer seems to mix it all just fine.

Just my two cents.
 
New question than (and I appreciate all of your help and insight thus far).

many people are saying skip the secondary, bottle from the primary. Is the unsaid step "put it in a bucket to mix the priming sugar" or how do I evenly distribute the sugar without stirring up the trub and transferring that to bottles?

Yes, that's the unsaid step! A bottling bucket is a great tool, and it makes bottling easier as well as works as a great tool to mix in the priming solution well and get the beer of of the trub.

Normally, you bring about 2 cups of water to a boil, and stir in your priming sugar (about 1 ounce by weight per finished gallon of beer for most beers). Boil for a minute or two, and pour into your sanitized bottling bucket.

Then rack (siphon) the beer from the fermenter into the bottling bucket. A great way to do this is to have the tubing long enough to lay in a circle on the bottom of the receiving bucket. Then, the beer fills from the bottom and swirls in without splashing, to mix the priming sugar and to avoid oxidation at the same time.

Then, put your bucket up on a table or counter (gently- don't splash!), attach a bottling wand, and fill the bottles.

The first time, allow yourself most of the afternoon to do this. But after you get the hang of it, it'll take less than an hour total.
 
I didn't think I mentioned it that many times in this thread. But it is a mantra I preach daily. Give the beer the time it needs to get down to a stable FG,however long that takes. Keep temps within the yeast's range. Then another 3-7 days it takes to clean up & settle out clear or slightly misty. This gets the yeasty tastes out,along with other by products of fermentation percieved as flaws in higher concentrations. The yeast feed on these compounds after the simple sugars are finished. Hence the 3-7 day clean-n-clear period I preach about. You can't rush the goodness.:mug:

sorry to sound harsh or mean or anything, just wanted the OP to know that your advice is good advice, it should be repeated

I tend to go to 3 weeks, everything should be done by then (given a OG of 1.050 ± .010) and I don't have to worry about multiple gravity readings. I take my final and go to bottle.

You can't rush the goodness is absolutely right. This is a very forgiving hobby, but it's definitely not for the impatient.
 
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