Tower for Sanyo 4912

I just wanted to know what you all thought about this tower?
I saw some online that were made of ABS plastic but I wouldn't think that those are worth the money.
Let me know what you guys think.

I have one like it. It has a plastic lid though.

I also replaced the faucets with Forward Sealing Sharron's...

Of course this option gave me 2 other faucets that I could use elsewhere, like on a keezer collar.

If you are using on a Sanyo the directions tell you to cut to the first set of ribs under the cover.

I felt this area was too small and the tower tilted a bit when pulled (had movement).

I went out to the next set of ribs which required a larger piece of wood, but gave it more stability.

Thanks homebrewer,
Every little bit of advice helps.
You are not far from me. I live in Steger, Illinois next to Crete.
You ever go to the BossBeer meetings?
I am going to my first one tomorrow.
We should get together and have a brew day!!

I bought this exact one for my kegerator and it is nice, no problems. The beer line it comes with is coupled to a screw-on connector so you might need to get an extra beverage line with a normal ball-lock disconnect on the end for cornies.

I replaced the faucets on mine also, with Ventmatics.

StankAle said:

Thanks homebrewer,
Every little bit of advice helps.
You are not far from me. I live in Steger, Illinois next to Crete.
You ever go to the BossBeer meetings?
I am going to my first one tomorrow.
We should get together and have a brew day!!

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You're welcome.

Sorry, I don't know where Steger or Crete are...I'm also not a big HB meeting person. I'm at Exit 27 on I-80. Where are you?

I don't mind getting together for brewing though.

I helped my buddy install that tower on his Sanyo 4912 a couple months ago. It's a good tower, but make sure that the nuts on the inside of the tower are right before you install it. We put it in, and one of the faucets was loose, it was quite a pain to get a wrench up there to tighten it.

Save $20 and order it here.

I was happy with mine!

HarvInSTL said:

Save $20 and order it here.

I was happy with mine!

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I bought the same one from the same ebay seller. I've been pleased with mine for the last 6 months. Planning on upgrading to forward sealing faucets though.

homebrewer_99 said:

You're welcome.

Sorry, I don't know where Steger or Crete are...I'm also not a big HB meeting person. I'm at Exit 27 on I-80. Where are you?

I don't mind getting together for brewing though.

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Yeah I was way off...you are way farther from me than I thought....like 160 miles or so.
Anyhow thanks for the advice.

paranode said:

I bought this exact one for my kegerator and it is nice, no problems. The beer line it comes with is coupled to a screw-on connector so you might need to get an extra beverage line with a normal ball-lock disconnect on the end for cornies.

I replaced the faucets on mine also, with Ventmatics.

Click to expand...

You wouldn't happen to have a link to the ball lock disconnects would you?

HarvInSTL said:

Save $20 and order it here.

I was happy with mine!

Click to expand...

I just bought it from the link you provided.
Thanks a lot for saving me money!

StankAle said:

You wouldn't happen to have a link to the ball lock disconnects would you?

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Pretty much every homebrew/kegging site sells them but here is Beverage Factory's link:
http://www.beveragefactory.com/draftbeer/couplers/homebrew/index.shtml

Build your own.

Shanks, faucets, lines and connections from an shop like Midwest or thebeveragefactory.com.

Some PVC pieces from Lowe's.

Some black lacquer paint.

Some simple hardware to fasten.

Really nothing to it and you'll save $$.





At any rate, clarify what type of keg connectors they include. Often, those are designed for the non homebrewer and have commercial connectors.

BierMuncher said:

Build your own.

Shanks, faucets, lines and connections from an shop like Midwest or thebeveragefactory.com.

Some PVC pieces from Lowe's.

Some black lacquer paint.

Some simple hardware to fasten.

Really nothing to it and you'll save $$.

View attachment 4788

View attachment 4789

At any rate, clarify what type of keg connectors they include. Often, those are designed for the non homebrewer and have commercial connectors.

Click to expand...

That looks fantastic BierMuncher.
I already ordered the tower so you came around just a bit too late.
I am slowly building up to my kegging system. This was the first purchase of many I am sure. I still have to buy the fridge/kegs!!!

StankAle said:

Yeah I was way off...you are way farther from me than I thought....like 160 miles or so. Anyhow thanks for the advice.

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I knew that......everywhere's 160 miles from my place...:rockin:

you guys have any specs for building a pvc draft tower?

shoebag22 said:

you guys have any specs for building a pvc draft tower?

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I used:
16" length of 4" PVS
One 4" PVC Rounded cap
One 4" PVC toilet flange.
Four, 3" machine bolts to fasten to the top of the sanyo.
Elbow shanks from beveragefactory.com
One half used roll of paper towels to suff inside the PVC for insulation using the inner tube to run the lines.
One can of black lacquer paint.

That's about it.

BierMuncher said:

I used:
16" length of 4" PVS
One 4" PVC Rounded cap
One 4" PVC toilet flange.
Four, 3" machine bolts to fasten to the top of the sanyo.
Elbow shanks from beveragefactory.com
One half used roll of paper towels to suff inside the PVC for insulation using the inner tube to run the lines.
One can of black lacquer paint.

That's about it.

Click to expand...

I'm building one of these myself as soon as the shanks and perlicks get in at my local HBS (no shipping == save $, and supporting LHBS is always good). In order to keep my lines cool, I plan on following what someone else here on the forums suggested: Jacket the lines in 1/2" copper tube, which will be chilled via a 2-4" extention into the fridge below. My plan is:

1) spray-enamel the PVC black
2) Wrap a can that fits into the PVC in aluminum foil, and insert into pipe
3) Cut correct lengths of copper tube, and cover one end of each in tin foil
4) Put copper tubes (foil-end first) into pipe
5) Spray-foam insulation between the copper and the PVC pipe

My theory is that the can will keep the headspace open where I want the faucets clear, and the tin foil is so that I can get everything out without it sticking to the spray-foam

6) remove can and break through aluminium caps on copper pipe
7) Drill holes for shanks
8) Mount everything

We'll see how it goes!

BierMuncher said:

I used:
16" length of 4" PVS
One 4" PVC Rounded cap
One 4" PVC toilet flange.
Four, 3" machine bolts to fasten to the top of the sanyo.
Elbow shanks from beveragefactory.com
One half used roll of paper towels to suff inside the PVC for insulation using the inner tube to run the lines.
One can of black lacquer paint.

That's about it.
View attachment 5320

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I like the drains you have there... can't see spending 50 on a drip tray... did you make those? what parts do I need?

shoebag22 said:

... can't see spending 50 on a drip tray...

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Don't spend $50 on a driptray, buy this one for a mere $14.95.

Fits the 4912 like a glove.

Hey BlindLemon...how did you add those metal bars to the sanyo?

The rails are repurposed stainless drawer pulls from Lee Valley Tools. I used one 488mm at $10.80, and two 232mm at $6.60 each. They ship quick, mine came in a few days.

I stole the idea from somebody else here, I think it was Buford. They are just attached to the plastic top with short bolts and backing washers.

Sweet deal! They look great and really make it look much more 'professional'...

Thanks for the info!

You're very welcome.

Keep in mind that when attached in this way, the rails are more than sturdy enough for their intended purpose. Just don't use them as handles when moving the kegerator, or the plastic probably won't hold up.

hey, where do those circular drip trays come from?