Do I want an eHLT ?

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adam01

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I've been getting tired of the instability of the water temp for mashing and for sparging. I use a jet burner to heat water, but it always seems to be just not the right temp.

I was wondering if there was an electric HLT that I could just fill with water and heat
the water to a specific temperature.

Seeing this forum, I see there are several, but usually as part of a complete electric brewery.

Would just an eHLT be good enough, or would I be wanting something more later ?
Anybody with experience in this decision ?

Thanks.
 
I started with an eHLT and used it for my boil kettle as well for a couple years.
 
I use an EHLT and propane for my kettle. I highly recommend an EHLT. Can't beat just programming a temp and walking away to do something else. I am also in no rush to complete the all electric upgrade. I really enjoy my system and probably won't think about changing it unless I decide to go bigger. Even then, not sure I would change the hybrid system.
 
I started with the eHLT and a propane bk. The eHLT works great, and it's cheap and easy to build! The eHLT can be built using 110v if you don't have 220v readily available. I think most of us eventually move on to a completely electric system, but an eHLT is a great starting point that can easily be incorporated at a later point.
 
My eHLT has two 2000 watt elements built in. That heats my mash and sparge water pretty fast. The elements are manually controlled now.

When I get around to it, I'm adding automatic temperature control and will use the eHLT as part as a HERMS setup, too.
 
I have just one electric kettle, and I use it as my HLT at the start of the session and then use it for the boil kettle after the mash is done.
 
I love my PID controlled eHLT. It is part of a complete electric system, but doesn't need to be. Mine is also controlled by a timer stolen from a coffee maker, so it comes on while I am still sleeping and is at temp waiting for me to mash in before breakfast.
 
I love my PID controlled eHLT. It is part of a complete electric system, but doesn't need to be. Mine is also controlled by a timer stolen from a coffee maker, so it comes on while I am still sleeping and is at temp waiting for me to mash in before breakfast.

Great idea. I may have to incorporate something like that into my build.
 
Thanks, I also wired a level switch into the eHLT control circuit so I won't dry fire the element when I forget to turn it off as I drain the water. So far it has saved the element twice in six brews on the new system....
 
This is what I really want to do. Anyone have plans for one using 110 and being very basic and cheap? I have a 10 gal cooler or a 5 gal SS kettle I could use. Any thoughts on which would be best?
 
This is what I really want to do. Anyone have plans for one using 110 and being very basic and cheap? I have a 10 gal cooler or a 5 gal SS kettle I could use. Any thoughts on which would be best?

The 10 gallon cooler. You need more than 5 gallons available.
 
watersr,

Check out my Hybrid Brew Rig in my signature. Make sure to click on Evilgnome6's link at the bottom of the thread. Great plans to make a 110 system on the cheap.

AiredAle,

Any details on your level switch? I've burned out one element and almost lost another. Sounds like good insurance.
 
I know the question wasn't directed at me, but here is the float switch I use:
1
http://cgi.ebay.com/Water-Liquid-Level-Float-Stainless-Steel-Switch-Sensor-/260817815936?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cb9f40980

I picked that one after *almost* buying a plastic one that was 3x the price. I run the SSR control signal from the PID through that thing before connecting to the SSR.
 
Thanks Walker,

I'll have to see if that is going to work in my cooler. I'm sure it will, just have to decide if I want to drill another hole in it. Nice price though.
 
I know the question wasn't directed at me, but here is the float switch I use:
1
http://cgi.ebay.com/Water-Liquid-Level-Float-Stainless-Steel-Switch-Sensor-/260817815936?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cb9f40980

I picked that one after *almost* buying a plastic one that was 3x the price. I run the SSR control signal from the PID through that thing before connecting to the SSR.

I've been eyeballing those switches in case I want to add a Grant to my rig. I'm always afraid to walk away when the pump is running, in case the flow gets stuck.
 
Hey Walker,

What's the thread size on that thing? I assume it's not pipe thread, right? I'm wondering how it could be used in a non-weldless configuration. Is the first nut (the one closer to the float) permanently attached or can it spin up and down the threads, too?
 
I'll have to see if that is going to work in my cooler. I'm sure it will, just have to decide if I want to drill another hole in it. Nice price though.

The threaded post on there isn't long enough to go all the way through the insulated double wall of a cooler. You would have to cut away a piece of the outer shell and insulation in order to install in through just the inner wall of the thing.


What's the thread size on that thing? I assume it's not pipe thread, right? I'm wondering how it could be used in a non-weldless configuration. Is the first nut (the one closer to the float) permanently attached or can it spin up and down the threads, too?

I am not sure what the exact type/size of threading is, but I know that it's not pipe threaded. The hex shaped piece closest to the float is fixed in place and does not move. I think I had to drill an 1/4" hole in the kettle for it. I don't remember specifically.... I just drilled it out a bit at a time until the post fit through the hole.
 
I am not sure what the exact type/size of threading is, but I know that it's not pipe threaded. The hex shaped piece closest to the float is fixed in place and does not move. I think I had to drill an 1/4" hole in the kettle for it. I don't remember specifically.... I just drilled it out a bit at a time until the post fit through the hole.

Does the hex look like its welded to the tube or just pressed on? I'm wondering if it's possible for fluid to get between the two.

Thanks!
 
I have a 2000W element in a 5 gallon pot. It works for normal 5 gallon batches if you increase your mash water/grist ratio and/or do a double batch sparge. Since going to 10 gallons, I use it to heat the strike water (usually do not need more than 5 gallons) and also as supplement hot water if I need to adjust mash temp, or to do a mashout. The rest of the sparge is heated in my BK, drained into a bucket until sparge time.

Its definitely a juggling act, so I would recommend going with 10 gallons to begin with. I will probably move to a sankey eHLT at some point, probably when I can find someone who wants to buy the 5 gallon one off me. I originally bought the 5 gallon pot thinking I would never do anything other than partial boils. Now that the sickness has taken hold, I’m looking to do the biggest batches I can physically manage.
 
kpr121 said:
I have a 2000W element in a 5 gallon pot. It works for normal 5 gallon batches if you increase your mash water/grist ratio and/or do a double batch sparge. Since going to 10 gallons, I use it to heat the strike water (usually do not need more than 5 gallons) and also as supplement hot water if I need to adjust mash temp, or to do a mashout. The rest of the sparge is heated in my BK, drained into a bucket until sparge time.

Its definitely a juggling act, so I would recommend going with 10 gallons to begin with. I will probably move to a sankey eHLT at some point, probably when I can find someone who wants to buy the 5 gallon one off me. I originally bought the 5 gallon pot thinking I would never do anything other than partial boils. Now that the sickness has taken hold, I’m looking to do the biggest batches I can physically manage.

So how much you want for the 5 gal?
 
What did you do for a thermowell with the 1/4" probes (Johnson, ranco) ?
Does it fit in 1/4" stainless tubing like BF sells ?

I'm trying to decide if I should put the electrics in the lid or the cooler itself.
I was thinking that I could heat the water directly in the MLT for the strike water.
Then remove the lid and the electrics and put it onto the HLT to start the strike water.
I would have to have two (almost) matching coolers to do this.

Or putting it into the HLT and it being special purpose.
Has anyone combined the thermowell and sightglass into a single rubber stopper ?

Wow, the eHLT looks like a $150-200 project.
 
Sorry for the late reply. I used exactly the switch that Walker turned up on eBay. They are water proof when installed correctly - drill the right size hole and use the seal that comes with it. Mine is installed in a former keg, so only a thin wall to contend with instead of a thick walled cooler.

The float can be removed and reversed to make it open or close its circuit when the water level drops. Some are rated for DC and some for AC so read the eBay ad carefully. I got the AC rated one, and put it in the circuit between the PID controller and the relay that operates the element.
 
AiredAle, Can you tell me if the nut closest to the float is welded to the tube or is it possible for fluid to pass between the nut and the tube?
 
AiredAle, Can you tell me if the nut closest to the float is welded to the tube or is it possible for fluid to pass between the nut and the tube?

crap. I totally spaces on checking on this. I am walking out to the garage right now to look.
 
looks like it is welded on. but, even if it isn't... I'm not sure why you are concerned about liquid between the nut and the tube. There is a built-on nylon gasket on the thing that makes the whole thing liquid-tight when you install through the kettle wall.
 
Thanks, Walker! If it weren't welded on and liquid could get between them, it will probably leak as the nylon washer is most likely not going to make a seal on the threads.
 
Looking at my spare right now. The 90 degree bend tube looks like it is swaged into a hollow bolt that is potted at the outer tip where the wires exit. The tube is inserted into the head of the bolt.

When the switch is installed, the sealing surfaces are the underside of the bolt and the interior surface of the vessel. The soft silicone washer goes between them.

This works very well, mine hasn't leaked at all.

Kevink, to answer your question, the seal between the tube and the nut, which isn't a nut but a hollow bolt, could leak, but it doesn't matter since the hollow bolt body is filled with epoxy potting compound which will seal it just fine.

Hope this helps.
 
I've been getting tired of the instability of the water temp for mashing and for sparging. I use a jet burner to heat water, but it always seems to be just not the right temp.

.

AMEN, brother...

still working with coolers, and the thermal mass of the cooler and the 13lbs of grain changes from brew to brew, enough that I can't always get the mash temp high enough...(I am within a few degrees, but always seems on the lower side-- 151, 152...)
 
The thermal mass of the cooler shouldn't change, but that of the grain will change depending on its moisture content. Do you preheat your cooler? I have found that adding the mash water and letting it set for 10 minutes to even up the temperature throughout the cooler helps with hitting my mash temperatures. Also, heating the water a couple degrees hotter than the calculations call for helps, since heat is lost during the mashing in and stirring time.
 
The thermal mass of the cooler shouldn't change, but that of the grain will change depending on its moisture content. Do you preheat your cooler? I have found that adding the mash water and letting it set for 10 minutes to even up the temperature throughout the cooler helps with hitting my mash temperatures. Also, heating the water a couple degrees hotter than the calculations call for helps, since heat is lost during the mashing in and stirring time.

Yes - I do pre heat the cooler, but maybe not long enough ...I will try 10 mins tomorrow.. I thinlk I can improve bec I use water from the HLT to pre heat..if temp is below what I want, the water from hlt cannot make hotter...it seems tha the hlt water can never be hot enough...I crush the grains the night before, as well as collect water...not making sense bec I am so tired from making Yopper's ale (but am sure it will have been worth the effort..
 
Kirk;

Interesting way to keep the electrical wires insulated from the water. How did you
mount the elements into the chrome pipes ?
 
Bill,

Are you using the same thermometer for measuring HLT and MT temperatures?

If your are certain your temps are accurate, then heat loss sources will be things like the transfer to MT process and equipment, natural cooling to the air, etc. Are you guessing or measuring the temp of the grain when you put that into the calculation?

When I preheat my MT (a rectangular cooler), I aim to get the water temp to a degree or two above strike temp, so I heat the water going into the MT maybe 4-5 degrees above what the calculation calls for. I can always add some cold water if it is too hot. I know I will lose a couple degrees during the ten minutes of mashing in and stirring since there is so much mixing and exposure of hot mash surface to the cool air.
 
Don't want to hijack thread..

:off:

Same therm, which I must replace since it is diff to read...(small dial):

I shoot for 175-180 in the hlt. idea being once I get transferred (3.5 - 4 gallons, done manually with a pitcher), I let sit for 5 mins (I should do this for 10 -15, BUT i GET IMPATIENT)...temp now should settle at 167 or so(but it never does() When I add grains, I should get a mash temp around 154.

Sat, the temp in hlt was below 180. Going to remedy this process by taking longer to pre-heat the tun, and getting a better thermometer,,,but the beer is turning out great -- no complaints there for sure ..

Need therapy for patience and money for quality thermometer !
 
What's the hottest temp you've done in the eHLT ? Some brews I've done require 200 deg. water for a step infusion.
 
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