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Brewmoor

Brewmoor

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I would like to use DC switches on my control panel to use as master switches for my elements and my pump.

I am not set on DC what I am set on is the ability to use normal sized toggle switches.

I want the ability to turn the 120v power off on one element. The 240v power on the other element and a switch to turn the pump on/off. My PID and and thermometers are running on a 12v circuit so I will have a master switch for the 12v bus as well.

I have found 120v toggle switches that could do the job I think but they are ugly standard toggle switches. 12v switches seem to have more of a bling factor that will fit into my design.
 
I've always liked bigass Frankenstein-style knife switches, but that's a personal thing.

Can't you just run the DC switch to the control side of a relay and call it a day?
 
Ok sorry to reply to my own post but I just found this. Rocker Switch

I can work with this. How could I use one of these to switch the 240v. I have a 5500w element. I am not sure how to switch a device with that much current.
 
goose_on_fire said:
I've always liked bigass Frankenstein-style knife switches, but that's a personal thing.

Can't you just run the DC switch to the control side of a relay and call it a day?
Click to expand...

That was what I was thinking but I am lost trying to find the right relay. I would rather not spend $20/each for solid state relays. The switch will only get turned on and off a few times during a brew, so longevity is not a concern.

I need a point in the right direction for a standard non-SSR relay.
 
I recommend you go with either 24v DC or 120v AC for the control panel. Personally, I went with 120v AC for the control panel to avoid installing a bunch of relays for the pump, mill, water solenoids, etc. Everything is water tight and GFI covered, so no worries.

However, I do use a 24v DC supply for the electric float switches that sit in the HLT and MLT.

Have a look at the Automation Direct lighted switches. They sell industrial quality, configurable LED switches for a reasonable price.

p4_t_p22selectincanled.jpg
 
lamarguy said:
I recommend you go with either 24v DC or 120v AC for the control panel. Personally, I went with 120v AC for the control panel to avoid installing a bunch of relays for the pump, mill, water solenoids, etc. Everything is water tight and GFI covered, so no worries.

However, I do use a 24v DC supply for the electric float switches that sit in the HLT and MLT.

Have a look at the Automation Direct lighted switches. They sell industrial quality, configurable LED switches for a reasonable price.

p4_t_p22selectincanled.jpg
Click to expand...

I have 12v DC to power my PWM and my Thermometers. My PID takes the 12v input too. So I already have that source available. I am hoping to keep 120v out of the panel and isolated to the water tight electrical enclosure I have for the SSR's and main bus for the elements.

$15+ for a switch is pricey. Toggle switches are a few bucks. Relays should only be a few dollars too.

I may end up going that route. I just don't really want bulky switches and 120v in my panel if I can get around it.
 
Brewmoor said:
I have 12v DC to power my PWM and my Thermometers. My PID takes the 12v input too. So I already have that source available. I am hoping to keep 120v out of the panel and isolated to the water tight electrical enclosure I have for the SSR's and main bus for the elements.

$15+ for a switch is pricey. Toggle switches are a few bucks. Relays should only be a few dollars too.

I may end up going that route. I just don't really want bulky switches and 120v in my panel if I can get around it.
Click to expand...

What you want then is a relay. You can trip the 120V or 240V off a relay from 12V or 24V. It is rather easy to do. You need a 6-24V switch and some wire as well. You do not HAVE to put the relay inside the box, on your panel. You can run that 12V wire outside to the heating element and mount the relay elsewhere.

http://www.shopeio.com/inventory/details.asp?id=795&x=CRYDOM+D1240
($15.00)
This is an example (really it was the first link off Google)

What you do is connect your DC to one side and your AC to the other. When you trip the DC switch it trips the relay witch powers the AC. Turn off the DC and the AC will be turned off.

You can build you own SST for cheaper. Really its just two resistors and two MOFSET transistors. You can probably build one for under $1. But I sort of like the nice package and mounting for it.
 
lamarguy said:
I recommend you go with either 24v DC or 120v AC for the control panel. Personally, I went with 120v AC for the control panel to avoid installing a bunch of relays for the pump, mill, water solenoids, etc. Everything is water tight and GFI covered, so no worries.

However, I do use a 24v DC supply for the electric float switches that sit in the HLT and MLT.

Have a look at the Automation Direct lighted switches. They sell industrial quality, configurable LED switches for a reasonable price.

p4_t_p22selectincanled.jpg
Click to expand...

Maybe I am missing something. I looked at the specs on the switches from automation direct and they are the same as the ones I posted for $7.50.

Both say: AC15(Control of AC electromagnetic loads)
24 volts AC at 10 amps
130 volts AC at 6.5 amps

My 1500w element will pull more then 6.5 amps. Am I reading this right?
 
Torg said:
What you want then is a relay. You can trip the 120V or 240V off a relay from 12V or 24V. It is rather easy to do. You need a 6-24V switch and some wire as well. You do not HAVE to put the relay inside the box, on your panel. You can run that 12V wire outside to the heating element and mount the relay elsewhere.

http://www.shopeio.com/inventory/details.asp?id=795&x=CRYDOM+D1240
($15.00)
This is an example (really it was the first link off Google)

What you do is connect your DC to one side and your AC to the other. When you trip the DC switch it trips the relay witch powers the AC. Turn off the DC and the AC will be turned off.

You can build you own SST for cheaper. Really its just two resistors and two MOFSET transistors. You can probably build one for under $1. But I sort of like the nice package and mounting for it.
Click to expand...

Thanks. I guess if 120v switches are $15 a piece I might as well just buy a few more relays and go that route.

I am getting to the end of my build and I am starting to get cheap. Too much money spent on christmas gifts I guess.

Edit: I am going this route. I ordered 4 SSR's from china. $9.99/each free shipping. They should be here sometime in the next year:D I will not be able to start wiring until january anyway. They should be here by then. I have enough to keep me busy up to that point.
 
An Allen-Bradley 700-HG46Z12 is a power relay rated at 30A SPDT 12V coil relay which is what you are after. Just the relay on Plccenter.com is $21 and you would still need a switch. If you are trying to save money relays and control voltage switches will not be the way to go, but itwill impress your friends
 
snowrs said:
If you are trying to save money relays and control voltage switches will not be the way to go, but itwill impress your friends
Click to expand...

Dr. Jekyll and Mr Hyde. I am super anal about how I want things to look yet I am cheap.

I ended up with more SSR's. It didn't hurt too bad sourcing them from china.
 
snowrs said:
An Allen-Bradley 700-HG46Z12 is a power relay rated at 30A SPDT 12V coil relay which is what you are after. Just the relay on Plccenter.com is $21 and you would still need a switch. If you are trying to save money relays and control voltage switches will not be the way to go, but itwill impress your friends
Click to expand...
I am in the middle of my control panel build, and using all Allen Bradley Components. I think that the quality is worth the price. My Temp Controller cost $200+ alone... The relays and bases are around $20 (My cost), and all of my selector switches/push buttons are about $30-$80 each. I am getting lots of it for cheaper through some of my customers leftover materials, but the control panel will last longer than I will.


OP: If you need help specifying parts or deciding what to use, get me all of the details of your build and I can get you competitive part numbers from several MFG's that you can work with in your searching.
 
snowrs said:
An Allen-Bradley 700-HG46Z12 is a power relay rated at 30A SPDT 12V coil relay which is what you are after. Just the relay on Plccenter.com is $21 and you would still need a switch. If you are trying to save money relays and control voltage switches will not be the way to go, but itwill impress your friends
Click to expand...

Single pole won't switch 240v so he'd need two for that. That's $41 just for the element.

I can see using a single pole SSR for the temp control cycling but the manual shutdown should break both legs IMHO.
 
Bobby_M said:
Single pole won't switch 240v so he'd need two for that. That's $41 just for the element.

I can see using a single pole SSR for the temp control cycling but the manual shutdown should break both legs IMHO.
Click to expand...
He can use a 700-HG42Z12 which is 40A 12V DC, DPDT $27.20 on PLCCenter
or a 700-HG47D12 which is a 40A 12V DC, DPST (not listed on PLCCenter, but readily available from other AB suppliers. I would post a ballpark price, but I am not in my office to look it up.)
 
When and if I start building I will use AB parts as well, but only because my pricing will be about the same price as Automation Direct due to OEM pricing. We only build with AB when ever possible, I cringe when a customer spec comes in Siemens or Mitsubishi
 
Bobby_M said:
Single pole won't switch 240v so he'd need two for that. That's $41 just for the element.

I can see using a single pole SSR for the temp control cycling but the manual shutdown should break both legs IMHO.
Click to expand...

I was trying to give him one PN for all three devices, two of which were 120 and I also figured he would have a main DC and proper fusing and just using the relay for control in which case breaking hot should be OK
 
Bobby_M said:
Single pole won't switch 240v so he'd need two for that. That's $41 just for the element.

I can see using a single pole SSR for the temp control cycling but the manual shutdown should break both legs IMHO.
Click to expand...

Yeah that is what I thought too. For SSR's I bought two for the 240v element. 1 for the 120v element and one more for the pump.
 

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