120V, 2000W Diagram Review

After months of scouring the forums for inspiration and insight, I've decided on a 120V, 2000W 3.5 gal rig. I have no intent of ever turning this into a 240V system, so I've sourced everything with that in mind. I've almost completed the kettle (thread on that later!) and am in the final stages of planning the control panel. I think I've gotten a pretty good grasp on things after tattooing some of PJs drawings on the inside of my eyelids, so here is what I've come up with:

First, the list of desired features:

1) Main power switch instead of an e-stop.
2) PID power on/off (Auber)
3) Pump power on/off
4) Element (via cutting power to the SSR [Auber]) power on/off
5) Element indicator light (120V LED, Post SSR output)
6) PID Alarm on/off (using an internal piezo instead of the auber panel mount)

The diagram (rat's nest) below uses 20A 120V illuminated rocker switches for the main power and other components. The switch's LED shares the same line leg (not shown in diagram) and has a post for neutral (shown in diagram). Not all of the symbols may be legit, but I think they make sense



I hope I have interpreted the function of each component correctly. Does anyone see any problems or room for improvement? Please let me know if anything needs clarification!

Thanks for your help!

Looks good! My only question is why a PID power switch if you have a main power switch? I've found that I always want my PID on even if I'm just running the pump.

Oh - which PID will you buy, or do you have it already? I have Auber's SWA-2451 - it has a built in timer, which is about all you're missing in your build.

I suppose OCD is the only reason for both main power and PID power switches. I like the idea of being able to have all switches off, plug in the unit, flip the main power on and know nothing should be happening. From there I can take a deep breath and supply power to everything independently.

The diagram is drawn to an Auber 2352 (SSR output), but I am considering the 2362 (universal) for some slight space saving in the depth direction. I cant really figure out what the real differences are between the two however. Seems that the 2352 has fuzzy logic, and the 2362 does not? But it is unclear to me if that has a noticeable impact on this application. Furthermore, looking at the manuals for the two, the hookups are different, but I am assuming that it would be the same principal to wire both, just different # connections for each component?

A timer would be nice, but with four or five floating around the kitchen I figured I could save a few bucks and skip it

Why does it seem that a lot of people think of the e stop switch as the main power supply switch? The "E" stands for EMERGENCY! Why remove a piece of safety equipment, or use it as it isn't intended?

milesvdustin said:

Why does it seem that a lot of people think of the e stop switch as the main power supply switch? The "E" stands for EMERGENCY! Why remove a piece of safety equipment, or use it as it isn't intended?

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That's where the word "instead" has magical uses in the English language. It is a power switch, not an emergency stop. To further clarify, this build has no e-stop; it has a power switch.

I am open to useful comments however. Admittedly, I cannot tell the difference between a big ugly red mushroom button that denies power to the control panel and a switch that either supplies or denies power to the entire control panel. In the event of an incident (an emergency perhaps), would turning such a switch off not elevate the problem? I'm not afraid to admit I am wrong (hence the help thread), so by all means please educate me if this thinking is not correct.

I'm in the same place as you are. One minor difference that I am planning is to require that the pump be powered for the element to be powered. Like you, I am also planning on a separate power switches, however, the element will be interlocked with the pump switch. A fault with this is that the pump may not actually be plugged in or running. I figured that if I can't make sure that happens I shouldn't be brewing beer.

Just be sure to use wire (including the main power/extension cord) that can handle 20A. You will be somewhere between 16-18A when the element and pump are both running. Most off-the-shelf extension cords are 13 or 15A.

Anbrand said:

I'm in the same place as you are. One minor difference that I am planning is to require that the pump be powered for the element to be powered. Like you, I am also planning on a separate power switches, however, the element will be interlocked with the pump switch. A fault with this is that the pump may not actually be plugged in or running. I figured that if I can't make sure that happens I shouldn't be brewing beer.

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I know what you mean. I purchased a little stainless float switch that I was going to be connected to a three way toggle on the control panel (element off, float control element on/off, and element on). But after thinking about it, I would still be required to remember to have the switch in "float control" mode to have any safety, so whats the difference between just making sure the element power is off if it should be? So easy to get carried away with "cool features" haha. Good luck with it!

helibrewer said:

Just be sure to use wire (including the main power/extension cord) that can handle 20A. You will be somewhere between 16-18A when the element and pump are both running. Most off-the-shelf extension cords are 13 or 15A.

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I have a couple of 12 AWG extension cords, rated for 15A, but from what I understand, an extension cord can only be officially "rated" for 20A if it has the plug with the little horizontal prong, even if the wire within the cord is rated for 20A. 12 AWG cord would then be safe for an 18A draw, correct?

A 12AWG cord would be fine. It's definitely worth it. I can feel my #12 cord get a little warm with only 1300 watts through it after a period of time.

Another possible aspect I don't think I've ever seen mentioned is having an SOP - Standard Operating Procedure for your control panel. This allows you to spend time in advance thinking of exactly how the panel should be used and how to do it safely. It may sound a bit silly, but just about all industrial operations have an SOP for every little thing you could imagine needing to do. That way nothing is left up to last minute chance; it's all planned out in advance and potential safety issues can be though of ahead of time and possibly be made safer by changing the procedure slightly.

porcupine73 said:

A 12AWG cord would be fine. It's definitely worth it. I can feel my #12 cord get a little warm with only 1300 watts through it after a period of time.

Another possible aspect I don't think I've ever seen mentioned is having an SOP - Standard Operating Procedure for your control panel. This allows you to spend time in advance thinking of exactly how the panel should be used and how to do it safely. It may sound a bit silly, but just about all industrial operations have an SOP for every little thing you could imagine needing to do. That way nothing is left up to last minute chance; it's all planned out in advance and potential safety issues can be though of ahead of time and possibly be made safer by changing the procedure slightly.

Click to expand...

My work environment is very safety oriented, with papers and procedures for everything. In most cases I like it, being a fan of routine and structure, so I'm sure I'll end up having a little checklist for each action step. Easier to be a dork with an instruction manual than replace an element or somehow get hurt - or worse yet, ruin some beer!

Well yes what it prevents at the least is those critical moment decisions like "I have to keep this plant running no matter what" which can be very dangerous, verses, well, my management has signed off on this procedure that says I have to shutdown if x is above y ...