"Another" first mini-mash

I just got done reading the other thread about rewster's first mini-mash, but didn't really get the answer I was looking for, so here's the question...

I'm about to do my first mini-mash with the Sam Adams Cream Stout clone from BC, but rather than use BC's assumption of 100% mash efficiency, I'm using Chris Colby's ratio of subtracting 0.53 lbs of DME for each pound of 2-row pale malt used in the mini-mash.

In a roundabout way, I guess my question is, are there any extra or special consideration to think about when trying to successfully complete a mini-mash?

I know consistent temperature is important, I also pH is important (and linked with the amount of water you use and the amount of water you rinse with). That, however, is where my knowledge stops. Thanks for your help.

I don't have an answer for you, but thanks for posting this. Hopefully I'll get some help here as well.

brackbrew said:

I just got done reading the other thread about rewster's first mini-mash, but didn't really get the answer I was looking for, so here's the question...

I'm about to do my first mini-mash with the Sam Adams Cream Stout clone from BC, but rather than use BC's assumption of 100% mash efficiency, I'm using Chris Colby's ratio of subtracting 0.53 lbs of DME for each pound of 2-row pale malt used in the mini-mash.

In a roundabout way, I guess my question is, are there any extra or special consideration to think about when trying to successfully complete a mini-mash?

I know consistent temperature is important, I also pH is important (and linked with the amount of water you use and the amount of water you rinse with). That, however, is where my knowledge stops. Thanks for your help.

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Depends on what you want from the grains. If you want body and mouthfeel and dont care about the fermentables that much then i would mash in with a constant temp of 158 degrees, but if you want the highest possible fermentable's then mash in with a constant temp of 147 to 150 degrees for about 90 minutes. Sparge slowly. Dont boil your grains. you want about a quart of water to one pound of grain for better conversion. Stop sparging when your wort reaches a gravity of about 1.010 to 1.008 to avoid harsh tannins from being pulled from the grain. hope this helps, if not ask away

What about a protein rest, 113-130F? Is that necessary?

brackbrew said:

I'm using Chris Colby's ratio of subtracting 0.53 lbs of DME for each pound of 2-row pale malt used in the mini-mash.

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You shoud try using the Recipator (http://hbd.org/recipator/) when you do mini mashes. Do the mash, sparge and measure the amount and gravity of your run-off. Adjust the efficiency setting untill you match the measured gravity for the run-off. Now you can adjust the DME/LME untill you hit your target gravity.

Doesn't work so well in Promash or BeerSmith though

Kai

rewster451 said:

What about a protein rest, 113-130F? Is that necessary?

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No protien rest is neccessary when working with well modified malts. You will be doing a single infusion mash. Brew on

My use of the grains in my brewing (mini-mash or partial grain) is for body and "mouth feel". I use from 1-1/2 lbs to 2 lbs of grains with a mix of crystal malts at part 20L and part 120L and pay no attention to adjusting the amount of DME based on grain I use. I get consistently good homebrew and haven't had a bad batch since I started the partial grain method. My favorite recipe calls for 3 lbs light DME (or liquid) and 3 lbs amber or dark DME.

I wouldn't worry about the adjustments for the grains. Also, I get consistent results by using consistent procedures each time. If you keep your equipment clean, rack at least once during the primary fermentation, and prime and bottle when the action stops or slows to 1 bubble per minute, you can't go very wrong. I've NEVER done a reading on my brew and by golly, it still tastes good.

Oh, I steep my grains in a grain bag for 30 minutes at 165-170, and sparge haphazardly with about 2 cups boiled water. It is amazing how the crystal malts impart their color to the brew right away.

Add up your specialty grains and use the same weight in pale. About 1 1/3 quarts of water @ 165F per pound of grain. I like to use a really big bag so I can stir the grains a bit. After an hour, I'll put the rest of the water in the pot, gently stir for 10 minutes, then remove the bag and let it drain. Add extract and proceed.

pH 5.2 buffer is great stuff! I use it in the mash and the sparge waters.

david_42 said:

pH 5.2 buffer is great stuff! I use it in the mash and the sparge waters.

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I've read some about buffers, can you explain the one you're talking about a little more? Thanks for your help.

brackbrew said:

I've read some about buffers, can you explain the one you're talking about a little more? Thanks for your help.

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Well im not him, but i can explain it for you. The water you use i think is the most important part of the brewing process, especially when your trying to clone a certain beer. Regular tap water where im at is around 7.2. The "5.2 in the 5.2 buffer salts is the ph. A majority of beers when converting starches to sugars and fermentation to finished product work best at a ph of 5.2. A ph of 5.2 even helps your equipment from scaling and other elements of water by products. The salt buffer product "5.2 locks in your distilled water at 5.2. Ive had excellent results with this product and recommend it to any serious brewer. Any more questions feel free to ask

So if went to, say northern brewer or beer, beer and more beer, I'd be looking for a product called 5.2 buffer?

brackbrew said:

So if went to, say northern brewer or beer, beer and more beer, I'd be looking for a product called 5.2 buffer?

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It's called Buffer 5.2 by Five Star Chemicals...first one under Water Treatments on this Northern Brewers page.