CO2 Tank outside Kegerator

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yusupov

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I decided to move my C02 tank outside of my Kegerator for a few reasons...

1) So the regulator is easy to access and reads correctly
2) More space in Kegerator
3) I can use a 20lb CO2 tank

Here is how I did it....

1. a)1 inch diameter metal-hole-saw
b) Plastic fittings (male and female), 1 inch OD, 3/4 inch ID
c) Two washers, 1 inch ID

2. Make hole in side of fridge, be careful not to cut coolant lines (I started with a small hole and cautiously poked around until I was sure I wasn't going to hit anything).

3. Connect fittings, washer and plastic fitting on each side.

4. Filled in gaps with spray-in insulation (I love this stuff).

5. Put gas line though.

6. Finished! A look at the outside (Very tidy compared to my usual work!)

Numbered photos.jpg
 
A very timely post as I am considering doing this to mine. Are you only running one keg in there right now? Or splitting that one line to two kegs at the same pressure?

I have a dual-body regulator and I definitely want to move the regulator outside as well as the CO2 tank. I assume I could just do what you've done here but with two holes?

Did you have to worry about coolant lines? Do they run in the sides of mini-fridges? I know I had to be very careful when carving out the insulation and drilling holes in the top of mine to install the shaft.
 
Fwiw, I used 3" stainless nipples with 1/4" male flare ends. Very small hole required in the fridge wall. The nipples came with nuts, washers and rubber gaskets so they are self-sealing, and accept the standard swivel nut and barb for gas lines...

Cheers!
 
JPHussey said:
A very timely post as I am considering doing this to mine. Are you only running one keg in there right now? Or splitting that one line to two kegs at the same pressure?

I have a dual-body regulator and I definitely want to move the regulator outside as well as the CO2 tank. I assume I could just do what you've done here but with two holes?

Did you have to worry about coolant lines? Do they run in the sides of mini-fridges? I know I had to be very careful when carving out the insulation and drilling holes in the top of mine to install the shaft.

I just have the one keg in there. i can't think of a better way than what you said ( putting two holes in the wall)for your dual-body regulator. Especially since you would want to be able to control the pressure of each keg separately.

I have an old Sanyo mini-fridge, and I don't think there are any coolant lines in the side walls. But I was uber careful anyway because I would be so pissed if I ruined my kegerator (I really love it).
 
Fwiw, I used 3" stainless nipples with 1/4" male flare ends. Very small hole required in the fridge wall. The nipples came with nuts, washers and rubber gaskets so they are self-sealing, and accept the standard swivel nut and barb for gas lines...

That is slicker!, the way I have done it means my regulator and lines are stuck there. But in my case I don't plan on moving it.
 
I use these to pass CO2 from my regulator (also outside the brew fridge, on a 20# tank) to the manifolds inside the brew fridge. Small holes needed, no spary insulation needed, no additional fittings needed. Plus, it's easy to disconnect the gas lines when needed (like during a move). You can also, usually, get them from a LHBS.

With the MFL bulkhead, you can also opt to adapt it to ball lock posts.
 
I use these to pass CO2 from my regulator (also outside the brew fridge, on a 20# tank) to the manifolds inside the brew fridge. [...]

That is precisely the feed-through I was referring to (I thought they were 3" long). Easy to install and works great. I put one on both of my brewery fridges, through the back wall in the top-left corner of the fridge compartment...

Cheers!
 
That is precisely the feed-through I was referring to (I thought they were 3" long). Easy to install and works great. I put one on both of my brewery fridges, through the back wall in the top-left corner of the fridge compartment...

Cheers!

I have a pair feeding manifolds inside my brew fridge (a two and three port manifold) off my dual body regulator. I moved towards the end of September and it was damned easy to just disconnect the gasl lines from them. Movers had the fridge out and in the truck without issue. :rockin:

I'd have to check, but I think I used either a 9/16" or 7/16" drill bit to make the hole for the fitting to go through. I just put the dial caliper on one of them to see what it's max diameter was (sans the nuts and washers). Made the hole that size and it's golden.
 
... I'd have to check, but I think I used either a 9/16" or 7/16" drill bit to make the hole for the fitting to go through. I just put the dial caliper on one of them to see what it's max diameter was (sans the nuts and washers). Made the hole that size and it's golden.

Golddiggie, would it be easy for you to figure out what size hole you drilled for the CO2 bulkhead (sadly I don't have calipers)? I'm pulling together materials for a kegerator build and was hoping I could use the same 7/8" hole cutter for my gas bulkhead that I'll be using for the faucet shanks, but sounds like it's somewhat smaller and will require a different drill bit ...
 
Golddiggie, would it be easy for you to figure out what size hole you drilled for the CO2 bulkhead (sadly I don't have calipers)? I'm pulling together materials for a kegerator build and was hoping I could use the same 7/8" hole cutter for my gas bulkhead that I'll be using for the faucet shanks, but sounds like it's somewhat smaller and will require a different drill bit ...

The bulkhead is 1/4" MFL. I believe I Used a 7/16" bit for that. You could simply take the gas bulkhead and compare it with the drill bit you have. Or take it to a hardware store and get them to sell you a bit that will work.

Put my caliper onto the exposed end of one of mine. 7/16" is the outside dimension of the threads. So the hole will be tight/snug around it, which is what you want. You can always move the bit around a little to make the hole a little larger.
 
I did same thing and then used secondary regulator inside mounted on shelf bracket.

image-2473670354.jpg


image-3977750011.jpg
 
Golddiggie, would it be easy for you to figure out what size hole you drilled for the CO2 bulkhead (sadly I don't have calipers)? I'm pulling together materials for a kegerator build and was hoping I could use the same 7/8" hole cutter for my gas bulkhead that I'll be using for the faucet shanks, but sounds like it's somewhat smaller and will require a different drill bit ...

Golddiggie, I just used a 7/8 bit (same as for my shanks) and then bought grommets from Lowes. Put a grommet on each opening (inside wall and outside wall) and the hose fits about perfectly through it. Not as nifty as the bulkhead, but definitely cheaper. You can see the difference between the grometed hold and non grometted hole

fridge co2.jpg


co2 fridge 2.jpg
 
fergusmj, so you went bass ackwards on it... Typically, we put the manifolds INSIDE the fridge/kegorator/keezer and run a single line to feed it. You went with the manifold outside and fed the lines through. IF I was to do that method, I'd have 5 holes in my brew fridge instead of just two. Also, the gas bulkheads, while costing not all that much (got mine for $8-12 each) also means smaller holes, so less chance/risk of hitting anything inside the walls. It also means less insulation removed and less chance of something going sideways.

While you spent less on the hardware, it probably took you longer to configure. If you need to change the line feeding the keg, or hunt down a leak, you're looking at more work for yourself.

BTW, I didn't use the caliper to get the drill bit size the first time. I simply used a ruler to see what it was for an OD and went with that. Really not that difficult to do, for many of us.
 
fergusmj, so you went bass ackwards on it... Typically, we put the manifolds INSIDE the fridge/kegorator/keezer and run a single line to feed it. You went with the manifold outside and fed the lines through. IF I was to do that method, I'd have 5 holes in my brew fridge instead of just two. Also, the gas bulkheads, while costing not all that much (got mine for $8-12 each) also means smaller holes, so less chance/risk of hitting anything inside the walls. It also means less insulation removed and less chance of something going sideways.

While you spent less on the hardware, it probably took you longer to configure. If you need to change the line feeding the keg, or hunt down a leak, you're looking at more work for yourself.

BTW, I didn't use the caliper to get the drill bit size the first time. I simply used a ruler to see what it was for an OD and went with that. Really not that difficult to do, for many of us.

So I just realized that I quoted your response instead of the OP's comment, so apologies on that. I wasn't trying to say your way wasn't right, I was just trying to provide the OP with another alternative. I don't disagree with the manifold on the inside to provide a cleaner look and less holes in the fridge. Luckily mine is one of the old ones with the coils all on the back, so there was no worry there. My goal was to have to open / close the fridge as little as possible, so I wanted the manifold with the on/off valve on the outside in case I want / need to ever shut them off. If I had seen your method before I did mine, I quite possibly would have gone your route too as it is a very clean looking setup.
 
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