Jockey Box and kegerator similarities

So basically if I want to make a jockey box all i need to do i drill holes in a cooler and all I need is the same tap set up you would use for a kegerator excepts its attached to a stainless steel coil? I was going to turn my fridge into three taps but there was no room and I am wondering what to do with the other tap and extra line. I have a cooler so I think I just need the 50 ft coil.

If you already have a faucet and shank all you need is the coil, a double end shank, and a few rubber jockey box washers to seal the shanks
http://www.nybrewsupply.com/beer-ho...es/stainless-steel-jockey-box-coil-50-rh.html

Well, if you really want the jockey box to cool the beer, you need a cold plate. And of course, a supply of ice. In a pinch, a stainless coil (if you have enough ice) will work. But it's not ideal because the kegs would be warm.

Yooper I think you know more than me about a lot, but I just got finished building a jockey box. The SS coil cost more than a plate chiller and takes up more room and is fragile; but the one thing it has going, it really dose a better job cooling on hot days. A plate chiller my be fine for most days, but a SS coil is better. IMHO

mikescooling said:

Yooper I think you know more than me about a lot, but I just got finished building a jockey box. The SS coil cost more than a plate chiller and takes up more room and is fragile; but the one thing it has going, it really dose a better job cooling on hot days. A plate chiller my be fine for most days, but a SS coil is better. IMHO

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It seems like most of these recommend 5/16" 120' stainless coils. Any issues with 100' 3/8" copper? It wouldn't have as much heat transfer, but the beer would be in the coils longer, and copper transfers heat better than stainless. It's also < 1/2 the price.

My two concerns would be longevity of the coil and picking up a metallic taste from the beer (although my boiled wort always seems fine).

I thought about the plate, but most sites say they're only good for beer that is already cool.

Some use 120' of 1/4" SS coil at 30 PSI many use 50' of 5/16th or 3/8th SS coil. The up side is the bigger you go the less pressure you need. I keep my box at 15 PSI and each coil is only 50' of 3/8th SS, so for someone like me who wants to take it camping, and not over carb the keg and still have it in use all weekend, this is a good combo. I do need to ice the keg on hot days like today, it's going to be 95F with rain. They all work, but some are more specialized than others. This is what two 50' SS coils looks like in a 52Q cooler. It would be tuf to cram another 100' of coil in there, but if you got a bigger cooler you could do it.
As a side note if you want to take it to someones house and use it inside; all you need is a 10lb bag of ice, that only fills the cooler up 1/3 of the way full and it will give ice cold drinks for two days and you don't need to ice the keg.

brewguyver said:

It seems like most of these recommend 5/16" 120' stainless coils. Any issues with 100' 3/8" copper? It wouldn't have as much heat transfer, but the beer would be in the coils longer, and copper transfers heat better than stainless. It's also < 1/2 the price.

My two concerns would be longevity of the coil and picking up a metallic taste from the beer (although my boiled wort always seems fine).

I thought about the plate, but most sites say they're only good for beer that is already cool.

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Don't use copper post fermentation. The beer is acidic enough that it will leach toxins from the copper.

bucfanmike said:

Don't use copper post fermentation. The beer is acidic enough that it will leach toxins from the copper.

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Yes, this! That's why there are no serving vessels made of copper- it's poisonous. Pre-fermentation, you can boil with copper and chill with it, but not post-fermentation!