Batch Sparge Braid Configuration?

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Rolly

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I'm setting up a 10 gallon rubbermaid mash tun, and I'll be doing batch sparging. I'm going to use the stainless steel braid method for lautering, but was curious if the layout of the braid would make any difference in my efficiency.

For example would I gain more efficiency if I were to have a "tee" fitting on the inside wall of the cooler, then have my braid make a "circle" connecting one side to each side of the tee? The circle would of course be flat on the bottom of the tun.

Or should I just do a straight shot out of my bulkhead with no bends?

This is my first mash tun, but I'd rather only spend the time/money once, instead of upgrading it later. Thanks!
 
Your efficiency is going to fluctuate with that braid depending on where it rests in your grain bed. Right or left doesn't matter but up and down does a great deal and you'll kick yourself the first time it floats up and you don't catch it.

If you really only want to spend the money once, build a copper manifold. You'll be glad that you did.

Or you can drive up to Bend and I'll give you my old braid.
 
I'm setting up a 10 gallon rubbermaid mash tun, and I'll be doing batch sparging. I'm going to use the stainless steel braid method for lautering, but was curious if the layout of the braid would make any difference in my efficiency.

For example would I gain more efficiency if I were to have a "tee" fitting on the inside wall of the cooler, then have my braid make a "circle" connecting one side to each side of the tee? The circle would of course be flat on the bottom of the tun.

Or should I just do a straight shot out of my bulkhead with no bends?

This is my first mash tun, but I'd rather only spend the time/money once, instead of upgrading it later. Thanks!

Straight shot, no more then 12" in length. It doesn't matter is it covers the full length of the cooler. It has no effect on efficiency when batch sparging.
 
Your efficiency is going to fluctuate with that braid depending on where it rests in your grain bed. Right or left doesn't matter but up and down does a great deal and you'll kick yourself the first time it floats up and you don't catch it.

If you really only want to spend the money once, build a copper manifold. You'll be glad that you did.

Or you can drive up to Bend and I'll give you my old braid.


I'm pretty set on the braid method due to cost/ease. Do you have a recommendation for preventing the braid from floating up?
 
Well I recommend a copper manifold. If you have a hack saw and drill I bet the cost is cheaper than the braid.

But if you're stuck using the braid, people use a heavy plug on the far end to weight it down. I followed that advice. Still got screwed a couple of times. I would sit and worry the entire hour that the thing wouldn't float up in my grain bed. Miss a couple of batches by 20 points and you'll throw that thing as far as I did. You mentioned time and money 'once' so I am just trying to help. I wasted both by trying to go the 'easy' route.
 
My braid doesn't float, and as far as I know it doesn't matter what shape or length it is.

I've been thinking about it and since it has holes in it, there's no suction effect throughout the length of the braid and thus drainage is only occurring where your bulkhead is anyway.
 
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