Kegging, here I come!

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Cider123

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 31, 2010
Messages
1,135
Reaction score
245
Well, after a year or so of bottling, I have decided to take the plunge. I do want to limit costs but my engineering skills are limited, so let's call this semi- DIY. I plan on hooking up a kegging kit to an old fridge and creating my Kegerator or as I will call it, my Coolerator.

I'll keep track of my progress here for my own records and I would always appreciate any comments and/or advice. I hope this doesn't end up as complicated as my last big project. I built a brick pizza oven in my backyard. What I thought would be a one month, $500 project turned into a 4 month obsession that costed (well, I don't like to think about it:D)

So here goes:

Phase One

Found a old Whirlpool fridge in Craigslist for $50. Here it is:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/attachments/f51/123095d1369009768-kegging-here-i-come-fridge1.jpg
It ain't pretty, but it is exactly as I would expect my first garage Coolerator to look. Complete with dents and missing vent grill. But I brought my IR thermometer and it was as cold as my real fridge in my kitchen. Brought it home in my SUV on its side. I almost paid more in gas to get it home than I did for the fridge itself. I've been told that if you have to tip it on its side, you better not run it for a few days after you stand it back up again. So here it sits until it gets cleaned out.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/attachments/f51/123096d1369009768-kegging-here-i-come-fridge2.jpg
I was planning on removing the bottom storage bins that normally create the "floor". My only concern was that without the bins, would the kegs get too cold sitting on the bottom. The coils are right below the bottom. I am assuming there are coils in the back also?

No matter what, this thing needs to be gutted and bleached. Who knows what was in there.

I was planning on 2 taps for 2 kegs at any given time. I don't expect a need to have that many beers on tap. We have an occasional guest, but usually just my SWMBO and I. I am going to research kegging stuff and give kegconnection.com a call.

Stay tuned;)

fridge2.jpg


fridge1.jpg
 
Do it man, you'll love it! I made the switch a couple months ago and couldn't be happier, I'm already looking to expand my setup, currently I have 2 tap and I'm thinking of going to 3 or 4 :D
 
There are no cooling coils under the food compartment. All of the "cold" is provided by the freezer compartment, and vented down into the food compartment, usually through vents on the food compartment ceiling.

If you don't see a radiator along the back of the unit, it either has a radiator under the bottom (usually with a fan) or it uses the metal skin as the radiator. Good to know which when you go to drill holes...

Cheers!
 
Ok, I didn't have very much fridge knowledge but that makes sense. There is a fan under the bottom along with coils and the compressor. I thought the coils were part of the cooling system but I guess that's the radiator.

I was planning on drilling my faucet holes in one of the sides of the unit so the door can be opened without a hassle, but that's another phase.
 
The "radiator" is of course part of the cooling system; its cold-side counterpart is buried inside the freezer compartment, typically in the back wall. The working fluid expands into a vapor in the cold-side coil to soak up "heat", then it travels to the hot-side coil to cool down before being compressed back into a fluid.

For a couple of reasons, I recommend going through the back wall with through-fittings. If you have the make/model number of the fridge you can often pull up diagrams of the guts through any of the larger appliance parts sites. fwiw, I used those to determine where coolant lines, ducts and wiring were placed on my two brew fridges, and the best location on both to bring in power, gas and thermometer probes was the top/left corner of the food compartment...

Cheers!
 
For a couple of reasons, I recommend going through the back wall with through-fittings.

Why?

I suggest going through the side... I have a three-faucet system in a fridge almost exactly like that one. I went through the side for gas, and through the front for the faucets, which is fine, but the freezer door is dangerously close to the tap handles. With the hoses and such, the side would have been so much better.

The back may be more sanitary looking for the gas hose, but the tank will be sitting somewhere anyway, so to me that doesn't make much sense.

BTW, I like to use colored dry-erase pens to make picture labels at each faucet.:D
 
For now, with only 2 kegs, just leave the CO2 tank in the fridge and no holes in the fridge. The only thing for the Noob to remember is when the tank is in the fridge the high pressure reading on the regulator is incorrect because the tank is cold.
 
For now, with only 2 kegs, just leave the CO2 tank in the fridge and no holes in the fridge. The only thing for the Noob to remember is when the tank is in the fridge the high pressure reading on the regulator is incorrect because the tank is cold.

So, I imagine it would be lower because of less heat? How much of a correction should be used?

I will leave the CO2 tank in the fridge for now. I am still deciding on whether to put the taps on the side or on the door.

Phase 2:
I called Kegconnection and ordered a 2 tap, ball lock, fridge kit. I did upgrade to chrome Perlick taps and also a dual body regulator so I can easily serve from one tap and force carb with the other. I got 2 of the new, strap handled, 5 gallon kegs and a 5 gallon CO2 tank.

I now have buyer's remorse. I know I wanted it, but damn that was expensive!
 
Cider123 said:
I now have buyer's remorse. I know I wanted it, but damn that was expensive!

No way. I didn't buy the upgrades and wish I had. It won't be long before you tee a gas line once you realize that you can fit three cornys plus the gas in that sweet monster. I bet you'll change your mind and add number three (and four) soon.
 
So, I imagine it would be lower because of less heat? How much of a correction should be used?

CO2 is stored in the tank as a liquid under pressure, and the pressure that you'll read on the tank pressure gauge is the vapor pressure of CO2 at the ambient temperature. If the temperature stays constant, the pressure will also stay constant until all the liquid is gone (i.e., the tank is almost totally empty), making the tank pressure gauge not very useful.

When in the fridge, I've seen readings around 400-500 psi. At room temperature, about 800-1000.
 
Phase 1 has been completed. One scrubbed out fridge. The SWMBO helped out here. This is where she shines:cross: It is her medium, a true master!

Phase 2 has been completed. I just received the delivery from Todd at Kegconnection.

Now: Phase 3: Drilling the tap holes and installing the kegging equipment. Stay tuned.

inside fridge.jpg
 
BTW, can someone just confirm for me. My shanks are the SS models that come with the usual fridge kits from kegconnection. Is a 1 inch hole saw too big or should I use a 7/8 in?

Never mind, I found it. It's gonna be 1 inch holes.
 
Looks like Phrase 3 is complete (pretty much). That was almost too easy. Maybe I left a step out.
I placed the center of each hole 4 inches apart and also 2 inches to each side of dead center. I started with a pilot hole, then felt around with a probe to check for wires or fridge lines. I followed through both sides with the pilot hole, then drilled the 1 inch hole with the saw blade from each side. Scraped out excess foam, filed the rough edges off the holes and slid the shanks in. After tightening the shanks down, I screwed on the taps.

I do notice the shanks will turn if I push on the taps at all. I don't want to over tighten the shanks and possibly dent the fridge walls.

So, Phase 4:
Get the CO2 tank filled and hook up all the hoses and double-body regulator.

taps1.jpg


taps2.jpg
 
I still have 2 more weeks or so before my next brew will be done fermenting.
I just ordered my next grain batch so I can get ready to have my first 2 beers on tap.
The first two will be a Petite Siason and an American Wheat. Should be good to go for the start of summer.
 
So we got to the final phases

I hooked up the taprite regulator to the filled CO2 tank
I sanitized the new keg
I siphoned my siason into the keg, lubed the rings, sanitized the lid again and sealed.
Then the tricky part. Learning how to use a regulator. The damn thing don't come with directions. So after fiddling with the knobs and learning that you have to pull out the pressure knob before you can adjust it:eek:, I managed to purge the oxygen out and seal the lid with 30 psi CO2. I cut the gas though. I decided to let it sit overnight to cool down to 40F before beginning the carbing. I plan on setting it to 28 psi tomorrow morning and letting it sit for 36 hours, then purge and reset to 8-9psi for a few days.

Still that regulator is tough. You dial the pressure you want, but when you open up the valve the pressure changes. I wish I knew how to get it to exactly where you want it without having to go through all this trial and error. No one seems to have a video or tutorial on how to use a regulator.
I'll post some pics soon
 
I got the regulator somewhat figured out. I force carbed for 36 hours at 28 psi and set it back to just below 10 psi. I'll give it a few days, then hook up the beer lines and give her the first pull:mug: Can't wait to see how it goes!

I guess I'm alone on this thread. Oh well, there must be a million "I'm gonna set up a beer fridge" threads. I've seen my coolerator fridge on a few other threads. The Whirlpool Frost Free must have been a popular fridge.

I also washed a batch of 3711 yeast from this brew. It's a great yeast.
 
Success!

Just poured my first brew from the tap. It is great! Perfect amount of carbonation for me and a decent head. The flavor is a bit bland for a saison, but maybe with time it will develop some complexity. If not, it's a damn good and refreshing summer brew. I need to get some pics up.

This has all worked out very well.
 
Well, here are some pics. My wife made me some decorations for the ol' Coolerator. Two magnetic black boards and a cool bottle light that she made from scratch.
I just made 5.5 gallons of American Wheat that should start bubbling away by tomorrow morning. The wheat will occupy the second tap (hopefully before the first kicks). That Siason might not have all that Siason flavor I read about, but it is one refreshing beer on a warm summer's day.
Love that Coolerator!

lights1.jpg


lights2.jpg


tap3.jpg
 
Awesome job man, I bet you're excited. I just got my temp controllers built and hope to clean my first corny and fill it with my Belgian blonde which is almost 3 weeks old now.

I feel your pain with the reg, I am sure ill go through some of the same growing pains soon.
 
Ok, I think I've reached one of the final phases for now. I installed a wooden floor so I can store more kegs in there. I don't plan on needing more than 2 taps right now, but I'd like the space to cold crash or carb 1 or 2 stand by kegs.

The floor is not fancy (and not quite straight), but it is level and pretty solid.

One thing I still need to figure out is how to stabilize the CO2 tank. That huge double regulator easily causes the whole CO2 tank to topple over, using landing on the rather expensive regulator.

Thanks for viewing and comments.

Finalfridge2.jpg


Final fridge1.jpg
 
Ok, I think I've reached one of the final phases for now. I installed a wooden floor so I can store more kegs in there. I don't plan on needing more than 2 taps right now, but I'd like the space to cold crash or carb 1 or 2 stand by kegs.

The floor is not fancy (and not quite straight), but it is level and pretty solid.

One thing I still need to figure out is how to stabilize the CO2 tank. That huge double regulator easily causes the whole CO2 tank to topple over, using landing on the rather expensive regulator.

Thanks for viewing and comments.

Go to Home Depot or Lowes and pick up a short all weather Rubber bungee cord (it's made of all rubber not the standard cloth type bungees). Attach the hook at the end of the bungee to one of the shelf racks (I see that they are still attached to the inside back of the fridge) stretch it across the tank and attach the other end of the bungee to the other rack. Since those racks already have slots where the shelves used to attach too, those hooks can hook into them without having to cut or drill.
 
That's a great idea, thanks. I might have one of those rubber bungee's around here somewhere.
 
Nice Job, can't wait till i move to kegging. Trying to finish my brewstand at the moment.
 
Back
Top