2 Tier 5 gallon brewery (with questions!)

I am slowly working up plans for my semi automated 2 tier 5 gallon brewery. I plan to use an insulated MLT in the place of a recirculation system. Here's a diagram.

As you can see I currently only have one pump. I plan to build my stand big enough to put my BK on it once I get the second pump. Since this system uses an insulated MLT the second pump isn't necessary just convenient.
Brewday- Water is added to the HLT and heated. Water is then pumped into the MLT. Grain is added and mashed as usual. Wort is then reticulated and drained into the BK. The pump then pushes sparge water into the MLT and gravity takes it out of the MLT and into the BK. The BK is cranked, the boil proceeds. After the boil the wort is pumped through the chiller and into the fermenter.
Lets take a look at the components.
HLT- I actually already have my HLT built. It is a 10 gallon aluminum kettle equipped with ball valve, dip tube, and sight glass. Inside is a 1650w low density element. This element is installed just like Kals. In the final version there will be a 1/2" tee before the camlock where the temp probe will be located.

MLT- My MLT will be an insulated 10 gallon rubbermaid cooler. It is equipped with a ball valve, domed false bottom, and a Kal style sparge arm.





BK- I haven't built my BK yet. But it will follow Kals basic design. I'd like for it to have a 4500w element, sight glass, ballvalve, tee for temp probe and dip tube. There will also be a wort input near the top of the kettle.
Brewstand- I think I'm going to straight up copy Kal's design to ensure I'll have enough room for later ventures.

Pump- I'll be using a march 809 equipped with an autovent.

Chiller- Due to my batch sizes and money restraints. I plan to use a 10plate chiller and a 25ft pre-chiller(water in the summer here is 90 degrees)

Liquid connections- All hoses will have type C camlocks where needed, and all valves will have either type A or type F camlocks attached to them.

Control Panel- Here comes the problem. I have been unable to locate a sound source for my needs. I live in an apartment(no modifying outlets/breakers). I have a 3 prong 30A power source. Heres the idea behind my panel.



As you can see I would like to have the 2 PID driven kettles and outlets for two pumps(in preparation for an eventual upgrade) all connected to on/off switches. The HLT will be driven by a 1650w low density element and the BK by a more powerful 4500w element. Both the probes will mimic kals designs, so the plugs on the panel will have to be RTD compatible and have 3pin XLR male inputs. The layout is negotiable since my electric knowhow is nearly nil. This is where I need the real help. If someone has the time I'd love to have a few things answered.
1. Do I have enough juice to power this rig? Everything doesn't have to be on at once, at the most it will be 2 pumps and the 1650w element or 1 pump and the 4500w element.(unless my power supply can handle everything)
2. Can I get a wiring diagram? I'm not really sure what guts I need, where to get them, how to put them together, ect.
Seriously, I would love details down to the most trivial point. (what gauge wire do I need for what connection? what about wire disconnects? How to program my PID's correctly. In what order would you build this panel? ect) I love drawings/sketches please include them if you don't mind. They help me visualize my goal so much more effectively and as a general rule help me to operate more safely. Oh, and the less soldering the better!

Space reserved for more pics/editing.

One question answered (P-J's handywork)

"I absolutely believe it is critical that your brewery be protected with GFCI power. You are dealing with electricity in a wet environment and your life will depend on it. Do NOT take a risk with this.

You can provide GFCI protection easily by going to HomeDepot and buying this GE 50A 240V Spa Panel GFCI for $49.00 and then wire it up this way:

Use a 3 wire dryer cord for its input and then install a 4 wire outlet for the output to your brewery.



Buy this
Leviton 2716 30-Amp, 125/250 Volt, Flanged Outlet Leviton 2716 30-Amp, 125/250 Volt, Flanged Outlet
to mount in the spa panel. Then use a 30A 4 wire dryer cord for the input to your electric brewery controller.

The SPA panel will provide your GFCI protection & the mains panel will provide the 30A breaker for your rig. Plus you also develop the equipment ground while doing it without having to rewire your house. Another added benefit is the panel is a lot cheaper than just buying a 30A GFCI for your mains panel."