New to batch sparge and stainless braid, need help!

HI
Recent convert from Brew In A Bag to a 70qt Coleman Xtreme with a stainless braid cooler. On my 3rd batch and have had trouble with my draining of mash.

I seem to get a gallon or so and then the runnings basically stop. I have to jack with the braid with my paddle to get things going again.

Last minute I realized that if I start the runnings very slowly during vourlof and then go full drain that might be the way to go, is that correct????

Any input is appreciated
Lakedawgs

If you drain too fast you could get a stuck sparge. I have before. Just do whatever works for your system. If that means draining a little slower then so be it.

I get no resistance from my bazooka screen. The key imo is getting a good grain filter going not a metal filter. Let the grains do the work.

lakedawgs...i had used one of those stainless steel braids for probably a dozen or so batches. was working fine, but towards the end of it's life it seemed to stretch out and finally got plugged up like yours did (and i couldn't keep it on the bottom either, even with a brass plug in the end). i've since switched over to a bazooka screen and have NEVER had a problem...even with a crush size of 0.39...that thing is awesome and i'd never go back. you just have to make sure and vorlauf like crazy...i usually recirculate the first gallon of wort to clear it up and help set up the grain bed.

I agree with creating a good grain filter. I am going to try the 'slowly draining the vourlof' think and then fully open the valve and see how that works.

You can add rice hulls around the braid to help with drainage. I use a braid with rice hulls, vourlof about a gallon and it drains just fine with my valve at about half way.

What do you mean by 'add rice hulls around the braid'? I plan to add them to a my grain bill but how do yours stay around the braid with stirring and such?

I cover the braid with them so I have about 1" at the bottom of my MLT, pour about 6"-8" of grain in, add strike water and stir being careful not to stir too deep. Even if I do the braid will still have hullabaloo around it. Pour the rest of my grain and water in, stir and let rest. Works for me every time. Granted I've only done 4 AG's to date but none the less. Hope that helps!

Hullabaloo? Hahaha! Got to love autocorrect! Hulls, I meant hulls!

buzzno said:

I cover the braid with them so I have about 1" at the bottom of my MLT, pour about 6"-8" of grain in, add strike water and stir being careful not to stir too deep. Even if I do the braid will still have hullabaloo around it. Pour the rest of my grain and water in, stir and let rest. Works for me every time. Granted I've only done 4 AG's to date but none the less. Hope that helps!

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I would be a little leery about this method. I stir the heck out of my grains when adding to the tun, Stir again before vorlaufing and draining. Add the sparge and stir like crazy again then drain. I am still not getting as good efficiency as I would like. I would hate to see what I would get not stirring.

The rice hulls should work by stirring and starting your drain very slowly to let the grain bed settle.

I stir the heck out of it too but you have a good point, I think I'll give it a good stir before I vourlof as well. Thanks for the input.

lakedawgs said:

HI
Recent convert from Brew In A Bag to a 70qt Coleman Xtreme with a stainless braid cooler. On my 3rd batch and have had trouble with my draining of mash.

I seem to get a gallon or so and then the runnings basically stop. I have to jack with the braid with my paddle to get things going again.

Last minute I realized that if I start the runnings very slowly during vourlof and then go full drain that might be the way to go, is that correct????

Any input is appreciated
Lakedawgs

Click to expand...

Yeah, that's the way I do it and in 431 batches I've never had a stuck runoff. Just crack the valve while you vorlauf. After the grain bed is set, open it up. And make sure you actually have a SS braid, not a plastic one!

Cool, thanks, I look forward to doing that on my next batch Saturday.

Denny said:

make sure you actually have a SS braid, not a plastic one!

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Worth repeating! if you have the wrong braid, you will not be satisfied. If you have the right braid, you likely wouldn't be asking these type questions IME.

Thanks for the warning but it is metal. I saw the metal looking, plastic ones for sale. When I cut this one and also when I crimped the end, it is for sure metal.