My Official E-BiaB Build Thread

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johnodon

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OK...not so much a "build from scratch" thread as I already had all of the normal equipment (kettle, pump, hoses, etc.). This is more to detail converting my propane system to E-BiaB. Some addtional info can be found here: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/a...ssel-single-pump-illuminated-switches-264251/ but I pulled most of the relevant stuff into this thread.

Since I already knew I could make great beer with my propane BiaB system, the overall goal of my E-BiaB system was to create: 1.) simplicity and 2.) easy clean-up. So, I decided on a single vessel, single pump, re-circulating system. Most of the information and how-to for the electric components came from Kal’s Electric Brewery site: http://theelectricbrewery.com/. Of course, P-J was kind enough to provide the wiring for the control box which I will post below. For this reason, I am not going to give a blow-by-blow of how to drill every hole and wire each device. All of that info can be found in the two resources I just mentioned.

One note about the steamer basket…

The basket actually rests on a lip inside the pot. It does not sit directly on the bottom and does not rest on the lip of the pot itself. Because of this, you have (best guess) about 2.5” of clearance between the bottom of the basket and the bottom of the pot. This is more than enough room for the valve, site glass and element. Also, since the basket sits inside the pot, the lid fits as it normally would.

Kettle and Components:
Bayou Classic Stainless Steel Stockpot with Steam / Boil / Fry Baskets: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FTEQBK/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
Weldless Sight Tee - No Thermometer: http://www.brewhardware.com/index.p...rmometer-4ezst-240&catid=36:weldess&Itemid=60

Bulkhead/Valve/Pickup Tube:
NEW - KEG Bulkhead Kit: http://www.bargainfittings.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=46&product_id=167
(NOTE: I soldered this onto the kettle following the information found here: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/soldering-stainless-steel-155782/
1/2" NPT stainless steel 3 piece ball valve: http://www.bargainfittings.com/inde...word=ball valve&category_id=39&product_id=128
Watts 1/2" Brass Pipe Tee: http://www.lowes.com/pd_35047-104-A...ittings_4294822030__s?Ntt=1%2F2+tee&facetInfo and spare copper tubing/elbow to make the pickup tube​

Element and Components: (refer to Kal’s write-up)
Camco 2963 5500W 240V Ripple Foldback Water Heater Element: http://www.ronshomeandhardware.com/2963-5500W-240V-Ripple-Foldback-Heater-Element-p/808790.htm
REDDOT 1-Gang Metal Old Work Electrical Box: http://www.lowes.com/pd_69718-53911...=1&currentURL=/pl__0__s?Ntt=reddot+&facetInfo (this needs to ¾” holes)
REDDOT 0.25" Rectangle Metal Electrical Box Cover: http://www.lowes.com/pd_303624-5391...L=/pl__0__s?Ntt=reddot+cover&page=2&facetInfo
Southwire 10/3 300V POWER CORD BLACK LFT: http://www.lowes.com/pd_56502-295-5...entURL=/pl__0__s?Ntt=southwire+300v&facetInfo (whatever length you need)
Cooper Wiring Devices 50-Amp 250-Volt Black 3-Wire Plug: http://www.lowes.com/pd_71242-334-S...rentURL=/pl__0__s?Ntt=cooper+50-amp&facetInfo
J-B WELD 2 Oz. Interior/Exterior Weld Epoxy: http://www.lowes.com/pd_10301-81288...1&currentURL=/pl__0__s?Ntt=j+b+weld&facetInfo
Silicone high temperature o-ring: http://www.mcmaster.com/#9396k38/=e2ljfw
Food grade silicone adhesive/sealant: http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/117/3388/=e2lk3c
Stainless steel washer/shim: http://www.mcmaster.com/#96853a253/=e2lkav
Standard straight cord/wire grip, 3/4" NPT: http://www.mcmaster.com/#7529k533/=e2lkgw
Stainless steel locknut 1" NPS: http://www.mcmaster.com/#4464k586/=e2lkj4
Misc. nuts/bolts/lock washers as described in Kal’s write-up.​

Magnesium Anode: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000701HEQ/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20 (FYI…I cut off the bolt head so I could screw it into the tee)

Grain Sack:
Style Selections 95"L White HighTwist Voile Window Sheer: http://www.lowes.com/pd_136697-1389...l=1&currentURL=/pl__0__s?Ntt=voile&facetInfo=
Gutermann Upholstery Thread 300 M (325 Yards)- Many Colors: http://www.joann.com/joann/catalog/productdetail.jsp?CATID=cat2857&PRODID=prd34127 (I used white)
Staples® Medium Metal Binder Clips, 1 1/4" size with 5/8"Capacity: http://www.staples.com/Staples-Medium-Metal-Binder-Clips-1-1-4-size-with-5-8Capacity/product_831602

Pulley System: http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053 (FYI… I also needed about a 7 foot length of chain and an “S” hook to reach my ceiling)​

Pump and Components:
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Control Box and Components: (refer to P-J’s diagram below)
Box for 1/16 DIN controller: http://www.auberins.com/index.php?m...id=143&zenid=8abf8ac7d2925d9afa5c70acc81c22ec
1/16 DIN PID Temperature Controller (SSR control output): http://www.auberins.com/index.php?m...s_id=3&zenid=8abf8ac7d2925d9afa5c70acc81c22ec
40 A SSR: http://www.auberins.com/index.php?m..._id=30&zenid=8abf8ac7d2925d9afa5c70acc81c22ec
Heat Sink for Solid State Relay, 40A: http://www.auberins.com/index.php?m..._id=77&zenid=8abf8ac7d2925d9afa5c70acc81c22ec
Contactor, 2 pole, 30A, 120V Coil: http://www.auberins.com/index.php?m...id=129&zenid=8abf8ac7d2925d9afa5c70acc81c22ec
Liquid tight RTD sensor, 4 in, 1/4 NPT Thread: http://www.auberins.com/index.php?m...id=107&zenid=8abf8ac7d2925d9afa5c70acc81c22ec
Illuminated Maintained Contact,Pushbutton Switch, 22mm. 120/240V: http://www.auberins.com/index.php?m...id=223&zenid=8abf8ac7d2925d9afa5c70acc81c22ec
Element Receptacle: Need to find link
Pass & Seymour/Legrand 15-Amp Light Almond Single Electrical Outlet: http://www.lowes.com/pd_83512-1571-...ts_4294821919__s?Ntt=15-amp+single&facetInfo= (I got white)
Southwire 10/4 300V POWER CORD BLACK LFT: http://www.lowes.com/pd_59154-295-5...ntURL=/pl__0__s?Ntt=southwire+300v&facetInfo= (whatever length you need)
Plug: Need to find a link
Misc. wire nuts, connectors and tension relief clamps.
Lengths of scrap 10ga and 14ga wire for internal connections.​
Misc. Parts:
GE 50 Amp 240-Volt 240-Watt Non-Fuse Metallic Spa Panel Disconnect with GFI: http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053 (this is what the control box plugs into)
Cooper Wiring Devices 30-Amp Flush-Mount Power Outlet: http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay...gId=10051&cmRelshp=req&rel=nofollow&cId=PDIO1 (mounted in the Spa Panel)
Square D by Schneider Electric Homeline 30 Amp Two-Pole Circuit Breaker: http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053 (this is in the subpanel in my garage and the Spa Panel piggybacks off of it)
Southwire 1/2 In. X 25 Ft. Coil Flexible Aluminum Conduit: http://www.lowes.com/pd_69898-295-5...rentURL=/pl__0__s?Ntt=flex+conduit&facetInfo= (subpanel to spa panel)
Southwire 15' 10 AWG Non-Metallic Wire: http://www.lowes.com/pd_346235-295-63948427_4294821905+5003698_4294937087_?productId=3370018&Ns=p_product_prd_lis_ord_nbr|0||p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&pl=1&currentURL=%2Fpl_25%2B50_4294821905%2B5003698_4294937087_%3FNs%3Dp_product_prd_lis_ord_nbr%7C0%7C%7Cp_product_qty_sales_dollar%7C1&facetInfo=$25%20-%20$50 (inside conduit from subpanel to spa panel)
Flex conduit ½” connectors (can’t find the link) – these screw into the end of the flex conduit and have a locknut on the other end.
Spare copper tubing/fittings for Whirlpool Plumbing: Since I BiaB with a steamer basket, I needed to come up with a way to whirlpool without having a permanent whirlpool attachment. See here: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/removable-whirlpool-fitting-262340/
Perfect Home Commercial Grade Decorative Wire 6-Shelf Chrome finish Shelving Storage Unit : http://www.homedepot.com/Storage-Or...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053 (used as brew stand and shelving)

 
Rig from the front:

IMG_2855.jpg


Rig from the back:

IMG_2857.jpg


Fitting used for recirculating mash:

IMG_2856.jpg


Inside kettle:

IMG_2848.jpg


Side kettle showing element box:

IMG_2847.jpg


CFC:

IMG_2854.jpg


Front of control box:

IMG_2844.jpg


Side of control box:

IMG_2852.jpg


Back of control box:

IMG_2845.jpg
 
Pump and housing (sacrificed computer case):

IMG_2843.jpg


Subpanel and spa panel:

IMG_2850.jpg


Spa panel with receptacle installed under cover:

IMG_2851.jpg


Removeable whirlpool plumbing:

IMG_2662.jpg


Same attached to the kettle:

IMG_2658.jpg
 
Things left to do...

1. Permanently mount my water filter (https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/water-filter-setup-29145/) to the brewstand.
2. Clean up some of the wiring. I think I will shorten the element power cord and shrinkwrap the RTD wire (just to make it sturdier).
3. Put a quick disconnect on one of my CO2 lines that I use to force carb. I will use this to blow out the pump, CFC and hoses to reduce loss.
4. Have my neighbor sew me a stronger grain bag. :) It was my first attempt at sewing EVER. It is probably strong enough especially since I use the steamer basket but it is ugly and it is a matter of time before it bites the dust.
5. Get a water quality report from Ward Labs so I know exactly what I am dealing with an adjust accordingly.
6. BREW ON!!! :)
 
Couldn't have done any of it without you P-J.

My next brew day (hopefully Saturday ot Monday) I will take pics of everything in action.

John
 
I'm literally going to copy this exactly! Well except for the computer case thing (i dont know what the purpose of that is) and im gonna use an IC instead of a CFC.
 
For those of you looking to do the same, please feel free to contact me if you need any help/info...especially while it is still fresh in my mind. I feel like I have a pretty good understanding of everything going on so I should be able to answer most questions. If it is regarding elkectrical, I will probably defer to P-J unless it is something I am very comfortable answering.

John
 
For your GFI, I was surprised to find your link to a 50 amp GFI in a spa panel complete for only $49 at Home Depot. I was looking for a 30 amp GFI and could only find the breaker alone (no panel) for +$80. But I don't want or need a 50 amp breaker running a single 5500 watt element. Seems too high for my needs.

Any suggestions for a 30 amp GFI/panel combination in the <$50 range?

Or should I not worry about a 50 amp breaker on the GFI? (I'll have additional 30 amp breakers at the control box.)
 
Nice job!
Nice documentation.
My brew rig is very elaborate and complicated, and sometimes, it might be nice to take an 'easier road'.
 
For your GFI, I was surprised to find your link to a 50 amp GFI in a spa panel complete for only $49 at Home Depot. I was looking for a 30 amp GFI and could only find the breaker alone (no panel) for +$80. But I don't want or need a 50 amp breaker running a single 5500 watt element. Seems too high for my needs.

Any suggestions for a 30 amp GFI/panel combination in the <$50 range?

Or should I not worry about a 50 amp breaker on the GFI? (I'll have additional 30 amp breakers at the control box.)

For the price the 50 amp spa panel was the way to go. Don't worry about it being overkill...it's all a matter of $$$.

I toyed with the idea of pulling the 50 amp breaker out of the spa panel and putting it in the subpanel but after talking to P-J he informed me that I would need to upgrade all of the 10ga wire to 8ga. I already bought the 10ga wire and hacked it to pieces so I just went the piggyback route.

John
 
Excellent job - I like the way you mounted the Anode, very creative and saves on drilling more holes - might need to copy this at some pint. Similar in some ways to my BIAB set up. I just bought a basket to try out.

I'd be curious to see your PID settings if you don't mind Posting or PM'ing !
 
I'll fire it up today and get those sam.

Honestly, the only setting I changed was for the sensor type and then ran an auto-tune.

John
 
Some pics of my first official brewday using my E-BiaB.

Recipe: Big O. No Ordinary Bitter
Type: Standard/Ordinary Bitter

As you can see, this recipe fits nicely into the Ordinary Bitter category:

OB.jpg


Type: All Grain
Date: 9/17/2011
Batch Size (fermenter): 5.50 gal
Brewer:
Boil Size: 9.48 gal
Asst Brewer:
Boil Time: 60 min
Equipment: Pot (15 Gal) - BIAB
Final Bottling Volume: 5.05 gal
Brewhouse Efficiency: 75.00
Fermentation: Ale, Single Stage

Ingredients
Amt Name Type # %/IBU
6 lbs Pale Malt, Maris Otter (3.0 SRM) Grain 2 84.0 %
.75 lbs Cara-Pils/Dextrine (2.0 SRM) Grain 3 10.5 %
.33 lbs Caramel/Crystal Malt - 60L (60.0 SRM) Grain 4 4.6 %
.06 lbs Black (Patent) Malt (500.0 SRM) Grain 5 0.8 %
1.00 tbsp PH 5.2 Stabilizer (Mash 60.0 mins) Water Agent 1 -
1.00 oz Fuggles [4.50 %] - Boil 60.0 min Hop 6 15.0 IBUs
1.00 oz Goldings, East Kent [4.00 %] - Boil 45.0 min Hop 7 12.2 IBUs
1.00 Items Whirlfloc Tablet (Boil 15.0 mins) Fining 8 -
1.00 tbsp Irish Moss (Boil 10.0 mins) Fining 9 -
1.00 oz Goldings, East Kent [4.00 %] - Boil 5.0 min Hop 10 2.7 IBUs
1.0 pkg London Ale Yeast (Wyeast Labs #1028) [124.21 ml] Yeast 11 -

Beer Profile:
Est Original Gravity: 1.036
SG Measured Original Gravity: 1.036 SG
Est Final Gravity: 1.008 SG
Measured Final Gravity: TBD
Estimated Alcohol by Vol: 3.7 %
Actual Alcohol by Vol: TBD %
Bitterness: 29.9 IBUs
Calories: 118.1 kCal/12 oz
Est Color: 8.5 SRM

Mash Profile
Mash Name: BIAB, Medium Body
Total Grain Weight: 7 lbs 2.2 oz
Sparge Water: 0.00 gal
Grain Temperature: 72.0 F
Sparge Temperature: 168.0 F
Tun Temperature: 72.0 F
Adjust Temp for Equipment: TRUE
Mash PH: 5.20

Mash Steps
Name Description Step Temperature Step Time
Saccharification Add 40.01 qt of water and heat to 152.0 F over 10 min 152.0 F 60 min
Mash Out Add 0.00 qt of water and heat to 168.0 F over 7 min 168.0 F 10 min

Mash Notes: Brew in a bag method where the full boil volume is mashed within the boil vessel and then the grains are withdrawn at the end of the mash. No sparging. This is a medium body beer profile.

Carbonation and Storage
Carbonation Type: Keg
Volumes of CO2: 2.3
Pressure/Weight: 12.54 PSI
Carbonation Used: Keg with 12.54 PSI
Keg/Bottling Temperature: 40.0 F
Age for: 30.00 days
Fermentation: Ale, Single Stage
Storage Temperature: 65.0 F
 
Setting up...
IMG_2872.jpg


Running sanitizer through the pump, CFC and hoses...
IMG_2874.jpg

IMG_2873.jpg


Water filter (which still needs to be mounted to the stand)...
IMG_2875.jpg


Filling the ketle (some residual sanitizer)...
IMG_2880.jpg


Steamer basket with grain bag...
IMG_2877.jpg


The cleaning station. Oxyclean on the left and clean water on the right.
IMG_2881.jpg


Recipe calls for exactly 10g of water (I know it sounds like a lot but I have a really aggressive boil and a lot of loss)...
IMG_2882.jpg


Steamer basket w/ grain bag now in kettle. Also, pic of my mash paddle (which works AWESOME)...
IMG_2884.jpg


Crushed grains in what will eventually be the sanitizing station and then the fermentation bucket...
IMG_2878.jpg
 
Ramping up to mash temp (152F)...
IMG_2888.jpg


Mash temp reached...
IMG_2890.jpg


Doughing in...
IMG_2891.jpg


Stirring (actually an up and down motion with this paddle)...
IMG_2892.jpg


Recirculating...
IMG_2893.jpg

IMG_2894.jpg


Mashing out (168F)...
IMG_2899.jpg


The pulley system. Draining grains after mashout...
IMG_2889.jpg

IMG_2895.jpg
 
Squeezing grains. I use a pie pan and my mash paddle...
IMG_2901.jpg

IMG_2902.jpg


Boil volume needed to be @ 9.48g. Not too shabby! :)
IMG_2903.jpg


Ramping up to boil temp...
IMG_2900.jpg


My removeable whirlpool plumbing...
IMG_2904.jpg


Pre-boil gravity. It looks like 1.030 in the pic but it is actually 1.027 on the nosie! :)
IMG_2913.jpg


Hop Spider...
IMG_2905.jpg


Hop Additions (only took pic of the first one)...
IMG_2907.jpg
 
Whirlpooling...
IMG_2914.jpg

IMG_2917.jpg


Chilling and going into the fermenter...
IMG_2919.jpg

IMG_2920.jpg


Smacked this bad boy yesterday. It is ready to burst! :)
IMG_2886.jpg


The rest is history. I was able to chill down to ~75F. I then put the bucket in my fermentation chamber and took the temp down to 65F. I pitched the yeast and had action about the 18 hour mark. SHe is happily bubbling away. I never got a pic of the OG but I hit 1.036. This was the exact traget OG.

John
 
Nice pictures and description of the process, should help the new brewers out !!!

What is the software screen shot? Does that BIAB profile actually help with the numbers or is it just for show?
 
That is from Beersmith.

Now that I know the equipment better, I was able to adjust the BIAB equipment profile ("Pot (15 Gal) - BIAB") to what I have personally seen (evaporation rate, trub loss, cooling loss, etc.). I now have total faith in Beersmith providing accurate water volumes, etc.

John
 
...

Recipe calls for exactly 10g of water (I know it sounds like a lot but I have a really aggressive boil and a lot of loss)...

...
Quick question Re: your comment above. Did you set up your PID for manual mode? With that function you can control the percent of power delivered to the heating element. Once set up you get there with a simple button press.

4.2.3 Manual/Automatic mode switch
Bumpless switching between PID mode and Manual mode can be performed
by pressing the < key. The A-M LED will light up when the controller is in
Manual mode. In Manual mode, the output amplitude can be increased or
decreased by pressing &#923; and V key (display mode 2).
Please note that manual control is initially disabled (A-M=2). To activate the
manual control, set A-M=0 or 1.

You probably already did that but 'cause of the comment, I figured I'd mention it.

Your setup is absolutely great and I'm lovin' it with all the pictures.

P-J
 
Actually I have not done that yet P-J. I don't know why...just slipped my mind. I will definitely do it next brew so I can have a more consistent boil.

Thx for the instructions.

John
 
I was wondering who would pick up on that. :)

Yeah...that was when I first doughed in. After that it settled to 152 and occassionally flashed 153. The PID always seems to overshoot by 2F when it first reaches the Sv but soon levels out.

I did read another thread where it says that the best way to auto-tune is do start it @ 10F below your Sv. I AT'd right at my Sv and that is supposed to explain the 2F overshoot. I haven't tried yet but will soon and I will report back.

This is the pic P-J:

IMG_2894.jpg


All in all it's no big deal.

John
 
Overshoot!

I have messed around a lot with this issue....

Autotuning will help you initially get to temp and not overshoot... but then you get the next, 'step input', issue.


You sneak up to 152 under PID control, looks perfect due to the ID terms contributing gradually, sits perfectly at 152.
THEN
You add grain, drop the temp by a few degrees in a second and ID terms freak out, element comes on full, then you overshoot.



After a tonne of tuning, I have it better, but not perfect. If I plan on staring at the pot for that 5 minute period, I often switch to manual control until the temp is restabilized. Otherwise, you will probably have to live with at least a small oscillation at dough in.

My 2c, ymmv.
 
Hey John

I gotta say this is an excellent build! I am building something similar and want to recirculate during the mash as well.

How much liquid is actually coming out the bottom of the basket as opposed to the sides during the recirculation? Or is the recirculation just to maintain temperature.
 
This is exactly the type of electric setup I want to do. I really appreciate the great pictures/documentation that you provided as well as the parts list.

I hope you don't mind a little plagiarism.:) Nah, when someone asks I'll be sure to tell them where I got the idea from.

Nicely done.
 

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