Banjo burner gone wild

So i have a Brutus style stand and I recently switched out the burner under my HLT. The old burner was a 10 tipped jet burner and I replaced it with the banjo burner Brewershardware.com. I also installed a heat/windshield from Brewsteel.com. The problem I am having is I can dial in the flame where it is blue with no yellow. Once I put the kettle over the burner it the flame goes yellow and and shoots up the side of the kettle.



could it be that the burner is getting O2 starved once the kettle is placed over the burner.

Yep that's a sign of not enough oxygen. You most likely need to drop the burner or lose some of the heat shield.

The easiest solution that I can up with is to put spacers under the kettle. I used 1/2 x 1/2 stainless.

rossi46 said:

The easiest solution that I can up with is to put spacers under the kettle. I used 1/2 x 1/2 stainless.

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Where would one buy such spacers.

I had this problem. I went to my hardware store and bought some welding metal L shape and cut a few pieces to get my pot higher up.

brewtime said:

Where would one buy such spacers.

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I bought a 20ft. stick at the place I buy metal at.

You installed in such away as to not allow oxygen.

OneHoppyGuy said:

You installed in such away as to not allow oxygen.

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how would you suggest I correct this then. Since it is your product. Not trying to be snarky

Ahh, I can see the issue, I think (like Rossi obviously figured out) that your problem is more of not allowing anywhere for exhaust to go, than not being able to get enough oxygen in. Looks like the bottom of a kettle would sit flat against the surface and seal off the "chimney" so to speak. If the spent fuel/air can't get out then more oxygen can't get in. Some spacers like Rossi's, that lifted your kettle up a bit and let the exhaust out would likely solve your problem instantly.

due to the size of your frame tube, your best choice is to rotate the shrouds 90 degrees, that is the way we designed them to be mounted. Note the gap at the top...

brewtime said:

how would you suggest i correct this then. Since it is your product. Not trying to be snarky

Click to expand...

lol.

OneHoppyGuy said:

due to the size of your frame tube, your best choice is to rotate the shrouds 90 degrees, that is the way we designed them to be mounted. Note the gap at the top...

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Good call- this isn't always obvious but can make a huge difference.

Do you guys mean "flip it over", because "rotating it 90 degrees" doesn't look like anything would actually change.



Otoh, it isn't clear that flipping the screens over so the cut-outs are on top would make any difference, either, if those wear patterns are indicating where the keggle rests (which appears to be covering virtually the entire frame opening)...

Cheers!

sorry... 45 degrees

Ok, I suspected as much. Unfortunately, the only way that's happening on this rig is if the screens are dropped under the frame - which won't actually fix what appears to be the larger problem with the boil vessel nearly totally closing the frame opening.

I think the only viable cure is to add spacer blocks between the frame and kettle. Then the wind screens will do their thing (probably quite well, in fact) while the exhaust can escape from under the kettle...

Cheers!

Dropping below the frame will give the burner the necessary gap. I know, I designed them.

OneHoppyGuy said:

Dropping below the frame will give the burner the necessary gap. I know, I designed them.

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So, you really don't see the huge difference between the frame openings in all of your pictures and the OP's actual rig?

Cheers!

If the shroud sits below the supports rotated 45 degrees, there will be a gap of 2" everywhere the shroud is on a diagonal. The OPs frame design is not optimal and another option would be to lift the kettle like you suggested. Either will work. The former requires less work/parts.