Diacetly rest with Ringwood Ale yeast

I've done plenty of searching, but come up with too much variation on how to do a diacetyl rest for an ale.

The beer is an all-grain brown ale modeled and modified after Dogfish Head's Indian Brown Ale.

10 gallon batch, fresh smack pack (blew up fast), and a 3 day, 4 cup starter using LME.

OG: 1.068
Gravity at day 7 (today): 1.041

Now the gravity progression is one issue as I would expect lower, but I've had cooler temperatures in the garage. It was pitched at an equalized 73 F, and has maintained temps in the mid to high 60s.

During the gravity check I gave the carboys a good stir to get things moving again.

So what to do? I've read with ales that require a diacetyl rest the primary should be extended anywhere from 2 days to 3 weeks after fermentation has stopped!

Options:

1. Wait xx days after activity has slowed to 1 bubble every 1-2 minutes.
2. Attempt to warm up the carboys with uncontrollable brewer belts to ~75 F for a couple days after activity has slowed.
3. Do a 'dirty' transfer to pull a lot of yeast into the secondary and bring them inside which will raise the temp in the high 60s.
4. ?

Any suggestions are appreciated.

Diacetyl is not a problem for Ales. The temperature and malt types clean themselves up well at fermentation temperatures. Not to worry. Let it go 14 days in the primary and then keg or bottle. You do not need a secondary. Age in the keg or bottles 70F and try some at 1 month. It might be too sweet but will taste good at this point. More aging will fix the sweetness problem. Brown ales do take longer to age. At two months it should be really good.

Actually Ringwood yeast is notorious for diacetyl production. Wyeast recommends a post fermentation diacetyl rest on their website. I've had good luck with the Ringwood by holding the fermentation temp in the mid 60's for two weeks as you have then bringing it up to the mid 70's for a few days. (I usually leave it in a warm closet in the house.) Then rack to secondary as usual.

I did the same as raceskier. I had it in cool water in the basement for 8 days then brought it upstairs for several days before going to the secondary. Things turned out well. Was all this necessary? I don't know but it was suggested on their website.

I agree. Give Ringwood a few days or so at 70-75, and you should be fine. It still might be worth a sample before bottling or kegging. Ringwood will clean up after itself, but it may take its time.


TL

Thanks for the tips. I added a little energizer to give it a kick. Hoping that will help.

I did a low gravity brew once with this yeast and it was done (majority of the fermenting) in just 1 day! Amazingly fast working yeast this one. However, I did continue to let it rest in the fermenter for 2 weeks.

Energizer is working like a charm. I think the diacetyl won't be a problem and the 041 gravity will have no problem getting down in the low 20's.

I know this a pretty old thread, but I have a similar question.
I've only recently started brewing lagers, which has me more interested in diacetyl and its absence. I brewed a Southern English Brown, O.G. 1.036, temperature maintained high 60's low 70's. It's been 8 days now, vigorous fermentation subsided after three days (low gravity beer). Haven't checked the gravity again, but was the consensus here that after fermentation is complete, wait just an extra 2-3 days?
Thanks a lot.

Just to be clear,
I realize that Southern English Brown is an ale. The comment about brewing lagers was only tangentially related.

Is this a pooka from NC?

The Ringwood Ale yeast is widely used in Brew Pubs for it's ability to produce outstanding Ale going from Brew to Glass in as little as 7 days. Fermentation is generally fast, 2 or 3 days fermented around 67-68°, a rise to mid 70's for a day or two diacetyl rest, Cold Crash (Clears very well without a need to filter) Keg, Carb and drink is my game plan for this Yeast.

Wyeast London ESB (1968) also recommends a diacetyl rest: "A thorough diacetyl rest is recommended after fermentation is complete. Bright beers are easily achieved within days without any filtration. "

I currently have one fermenting at 68 degrees. I am going to let it go 2 full weeks and, assuming the gravity isn't dropping any more, I'll move it out to warmer part of the basement that is around 75 degrees.

Has anyone else ever worked with that yeast? Does that sound about right?

I've worked with 1968 and never had an issue with diacetyl. Let the beer tell you what to do, not some predetermined schedule. A schedule only exists when you've fermented with a particular yeast for a number of times in the same type of beer. And only then is it just a guideline, the beer still makes the decision for you on what needs to be done.

That said, this yeast has a tendency to drop out, stall, or quit fermentation early if temperatures cool. This may require some rousing and/or temperature increases to help the yeast finish. Not only should you be doing SG checks (at 1 week, 2 week if you go that far, etc) to monitor fermentation (no airlock sniffing or bubble watching both of which are unreliable) you should taste your beer as well. You'll know when you need to continue fermentation with the above measures or not if you detect it. If you do detect diacetyl and FG has been reached or SG has stabilized, wait it out and the yeast often cleans it up. If it persists for a long time, you might have other issues (bacterial). I'm beginning to find with experience that if you pitched enough healthy yeast, keep your fermentation temps in line the first several days (pick a temp between 64-68F) and then allow temps to rise (up to 75F or more) I haven't needed to worry too much about off-flavors like diacetyl.

Short answer though, yes, you sound about right