double check my burner plans please

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bucfanmike

bucfanmike

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Putting the parts together for my brewstand build. I really wanted the 10" banjos but tired of waiting for them to come back in stock at agrisupply and they are way more expensive everywhere else. From what I have been reading it seems the low pressure 6" ones are more than capable of 10 gallon boils.

Also to my understanding the added benefit of going low pressure is that down the road I can automate much cheaper.

So 3 of these burners.
http://www.agrisupply.com/burner-cast-low-pressure-multi-hole-btu-dia/p/40282/

And then one low pressure reg coming off the tank and supplying a black pipe fuel rail via a lp hose.
http://www.agrisupply.com/low-pressure-regulator-soft-nose-wheel-pol-hand/p/33735/
http://www.agrisupply.com/high-pressure-hose-assembly-mpt-ffl/p/36108/

From there I will have 3 needle valves off the rail to each burner with either more custom length gas line or soft copper.

I just want to make sure that 1 low pressure reg will supply enough gas. There may be times when I will have 2 burners going full, as I occasionally do back to back brews. Also want to confirm that these burners configured this way will get me to boil in a good time frame. Right now im using small turkey fryer stands that have the small high pressure burners and i do fine with them but they are loud and seem to not be very efficient.

Lemme know if this will work.
 
I haven't used low pressure, but I feel skeptical about the low pressure doing ten gallons quickly. I used soft copper with flare fittings from the regulator to the black pipe and from the black pipe to the burners and am very happy with it.
 
That regulator is only rated for up to 100K BTU, so you won't be able to run two burners full throttle with it. Depending on your needs, you might consider getting something a little bigger, like a 11"WC/200K BTU reg. The 6" don't have as much power as the 10", but still plenty to boil 10gal. I'd run low pressure with either size burner, for the ease of automation you already mentioned.

FWIW I was initially going to buy my banjo burners from agrisupply, but after what is IMO excessive shipping costs, the price ended up being roughly the same as buying from amazon with free shipping. I think prices have changed since then, but don't forget to factor in shipping.

Also be aware that you may need to continually tweak your flame levels running 3 needle valves from a single rail. Every time you open, close, or adjust one valve, the flame will change on any other burners already running. It's a minor issue for most people, but something to be aware of.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
bucfanmike said:
Putting the parts together for my brewstand build. I really wanted the 10" banjos but tired of waiting for them to come back in stock at agrisupply and they are way more expensive everywhere else. From what I have been reading it seems the low pressure 6" ones are more than capable of 10 gallon boils.

Also to my understanding the added benefit of going low pressure is that down the road I can automate much cheaper.

So 3 of these burners.
http://www.agrisupply.com/burner-cast-low-pressure-multi-hole-btu-dia/p/40282/

And then one low pressure reg coming off the tank and supplying a black pipe fuel rail via a lp hose.
http://www.agrisupply.com/low-pressure-regulator-soft-nose-wheel-pol-hand/p/33735/
http://www.agrisupply.com/high-pressure-hose-assembly-mpt-ffl/p/36108/

From there I will have 3 needle valves off the rail to each burner with either more custom length gas line or soft copper.

I just want to make sure that 1 low pressure reg will supply enough gas. There may be times when I will have 2 burners going full, as I occasionally do back to back brews. Also want to confirm that these burners configured this way will get me to boil in a good time frame. Right now im using small turkey fryer stands that have the small high pressure burners and i do fine with them but they are loud and seem to not be very efficient.

Lemme know if this will work.
Click to expand...

A couple of things:

1) Anything > 1 psi is considered high pressure. This low pressure high pressure thing is a bit of a farce.

2) You're main concern is PSI. Those burners are rated for 10 PSI - therefore a 0-30 PSI regulator after the propane tank is sufficient. Look at this site:

http://www.tejassmokers.com/, specifically http://www.tejassmokers.com/gasregulators.htm#Manual_Tank_Changeover_Valve. They have a 0-30 PSI regulator with QD that is perfect for the rail and that is what I use.

3) Those 6" burners are very efficient. The 10" are great for surface area, but they use a ton of gas.

4) Consider using a smaller 0-10 PSI regulator on the MT/LT burner. This will have a lot finer control than a needle valve. Needle valves are a great choice otherwise.

5) I can't speak to this personally, but you might want to think about metal lines versus rubber. I'm not sure if that rubber line has the potential to melt or not and it can get hot around those burners.

HTH.
 
jcaudill said:
A couple of things:

1) Anything > 1 psi is considered high pressure. This low pressure high pressure thing is a bit of a farce.

2) You're main concern is PSI. Those burners are rated for 10 PSI - therefore a 0-30 PSI regulator after the propane tank is sufficient. Look at this site:

http://www.tejassmokers.com/, specifically http://www.tejassmokers.com/gasregulators.htm#Manual_Tank_Changeover_Valve. They have a 0-30 PSI regulator with QD that is perfect for the rail and that is what I use.

3) Those 6" burners are very efficient. The 10" are great for surface area, but they use a ton of gas.

4) Consider using a smaller 0-10 PSI regulator on the MT/LT burner. This will have a lot finer control than a needle valve. Needle valves are a great choice otherwise.

5) I can't speak to this personally, but you might want to think about metal lines versus rubber. I'm not sure if that rubber line has the potential to melt or not and it can get hot around those burners.

HTH.
Click to expand...

True, <1 psi is low pressure and anything over is high pressure, but that doesn't mean low vs high is a farce. There are different orifices designed for either high pressure or low pressure in both the 6" and 10" banjo burners. Using that burner with the low pressure orifice and a 0-30 psi regulator will be tricky to control and potentially very inefficient. If you swap out the orifice for a high pressure one and use a high pressure regulator like you suggest, it will work fine, but then it becomes more costly to automate later on.
 
True - I don't mean it's a farce in that it doesn't exist - only that it doesn't really exist in most Homebrewer applications.

I use that 0-30 regulator with those agrisupply ring burners and various other plumbing in between and it works fine. You definitely need a regulator that is going to be capable of the additive PSI. That's kind of hard to calculate so I just used the max and I can control then within the range.
 
jcaudill said:
True - I don't mean it's a farce in that it doesn't exist - only that it doesn't really exist in most Homebrewer applications.

I use that 0-30 regulator with those agrisupply ring burners and various other plumbing in between and it works fine. You definitely need a regulator that is going to be capable of the additive PSI. That's kind of hard to calculate so I just used the max and I can control then within the range.
Click to expand...

A difference between high pressure and low pressure absolutely exists for homebrewers. I replaced my SP-10 burners even though they worked great simply because I wanted to switch to low pressure, and they only run on high pressure. The banjo burners I switched to run well on either high or low pressure with the proper size orifice. I did this for two reasons, 1) I wanted the ability to convert to natural gas someday so that I can eliminate the expense and hassle of refilling propane tanks, and 2) I wanted to add some automation, which is cheaper to do with low pressure, particularly so for me since I had access to some free furnace valves.

What size orifice are you using in that burner? If you use a low pressure orifice (larger) you can get the same performance out of the burner with only 1 psi being supplied as you would with a high pressure orifice and 30 psi. Either one will work, but the low pressure / larger orifice combination has the advantage of being cheaper/easier to automate.
 
Thanks for confirming what I had taken from the various other things I had read. Im going to go with the low pressure 6" ring burners and the 180k btu lp regulator. Guess Im stuck with the shipping from agri supply as it appears the amazon 6" ring burners dont come with an orifice and there are no prime shipping options for the orifice.

Anyway thanks again for the help!
 

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