nooby question

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Smiddy1488

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Hey guys

Well this time i'm brewing 40 pints of cerveza which should be done friday. I'm considering getting a pressure barrel and co2 inejector to keep sediment to a mininum as ita inconvenient if i want to trasport my beer or keep it in the fridge having to keep it upright any tips where to get one? Also my main question is: if i put my beer in the barrel after fermentation is complete and inject co2 can i then bottle it and it will remain carobanted or would i literally have to dispense it out of the pressure barrel when i wanted a drink?
 
If you force carb, then bottle from a keg and want to retain all of the CO2, you need to use a counterpressure filler. Other devices can bottle from kegs, but you'll lose some CO2 (or beer) in the process.
 
Mhm, any chance there's a way to carbonate it in the bottle? how much do you think a co2 tank and adapter to screw on the bottles would set me back? or is there an easier/cheaper way? XD
 
Carbonating in the bottle is possible without using the yeast, but not realistic.

You'd have to chill the beer to serving temperature (so, you'd have to cap it or wrap it), then open it, put on the lid contraption, crank up the CO2, then shake like a madman and hope you end up at the right pressure level when you're done. Take off the contraption, add a bottle cap. For every single bottle. No thanks!

There's no cheaper way than yeast eating sugars to carbonate. You're going to go through a lot of work to eliminate sediment in a bottle.
 
The easier way (to bottle from a Keg) was the way rbenn told you.

I have a contraption very similar to the one linked. You will lose some CO2 and on most bottles a bit of beer from foam-over trying to get the liquid to the bottom of the neck. It makes for sticky hands and a sticky overflow pot for me.

I make due with it for now, but it's less than ideal.
 
I have a contraption very similar to the one linked. You will lose some CO2 and on most bottles a bit of beer from foam-over trying to get the liquid to the bottom of the neck. It makes for sticky hands and a sticky overflow pot for me.

I make due with it for now, but it's less than ideal.

Oh fair enough... I'm sure a beergun is better, its just that the OP's response was asking for something OTHER THAN that, which is easy, like that convoluted system you described in the other post.


TL;DR : I was just being snarky.
 
Sure I'm going to a lot of work to avoid sediment, but why wouldn't I? If the only way I can store it is upright which is inconvenient for my fridge, and have to carry it to parties and make sure it doesn't get shaked about or have a cloudy beer? Also the wastage of people who don't like sediment in their drinks etc, I'd much rather just have no sediment and be able to store it how I like, take it about easy and drink it all
 
Sure I'm going to a lot of work to avoid sediment, but why wouldn't I? If the only way I can store it is upright which is inconvenient for my fridge, and have to carry it to parties and make sure it doesn't get shaked about or have a cloudy beer? Also the wastage of people who don't like sediment in their drinks etc, I'd much rather just have no sediment and be able to store it how I like, take it about easy and drink it all

Let us know what you invent.
 
I've just bought a pressure barrel with co2 injector. Surely if I force carbonate it in there and bottle it when i need it say for example in then morning refridgerate it and drink it at night it wouldn't be flat?
 
After i've waited for fermentation to stop would I then still have to wait the two or so weeks for my beer to clarify or do you think racking it from the fermenating barrel to pressure barrel (after a week or so) should do it?
 
I've just bought a pressure barrel with co2 injector. Surely if I force carbonate it in there and bottle it when i need it say for example in then morning refridgerate it and drink it at night it wouldn't be flat?

Pressure barrel? Injector? Aren't we talking about a keg, CO2 tank and regulator? Have you been talking about something else this whole time?

If you're force carbing, you'll probably need to do it at serving temperature. CO2 dissolves poorly at room temperature. You'll also need to have It at that temperature when bottling. The colder you can get the bottles the better.

After i've waited for fermentation to stop would I then still have to wait the two or so weeks for my beer to clarify or do you think racking it from the fermenating barrel to pressure barrel (after a week or so) should do it?

If you want crystal clear beer, then you should use a hop spider in the boil, add Irish Moss, do a longer primary, siphon to secondary, use a filter or cold crash several days.

If a little yeast residue from carbing bothers you, then what you're describing won't give you the results you seem to want.

Why this fascination with clarity? I don't find It yields a tastier beer.
 
I was going to go with a tank but went with the cheaper option of a pressure barrel and co2 injector. I don't have a problem with a bit of sediment really, just i'm making some for a party coming up and my friends seem to not want to drink the last 1/4 of the 2l bottle because they don't like the taste
 
Syphoned in to the pressure barrel on Friday and was advised to add 50g sugar anyway (i guess the co2 is just to top the pressure off if i tap some out).
 
Here we go again. I feel like I'm the only one on this forum who ever googled "Pressure barrel fermenter" when the first heard about it, and actually knows what the heck it is.

He's talking about a UK Pressure barrel fermenter/serving unit, which if you all had bothered to do a second's worth of google searching, you might have realized that it is pretty much the most common piece of homebrewing kit in ENGLAND and other parts of the known world.....

barrel_system.png


But I would post questions about pressure barrels on the Brewuk forums. We can help you with just about everything else about brewing. But specific pressure barrel info is pretty scarce on here.

However in terms of priming a pressure barrel, I would advise you to read this article, it's for priming uk pressure barrel fermenters.

Every once and awhile we get questions about them from English Homebrewers, and I'm the only one that seems to seem to know what they are. I usually refer them to the English and Aussie homebrewer sites. None of the threads on here really go beyond 3-4 posts, because since the majority of us are from the states, where they're rare, we don't know much about them.

And most on here evidently don't even know what they are.

But I will say, that if you think your beer will be fermented, carbonated and conditioned and not taste like crap in a week, you're going to be might surprised.....most of my beers aren't ready for 6-8 weeks minimum.
 
Yeah, you'd spend a fortune in those little CO2 cartridges force carbing.

They usually add sugar to the barrel, let it carb up, THEN they use the co2 charger just to push the already carbed beer out of it.

(Which is another reason the OP is mistaken if he thinks it will be drinkable in a week, we KNOW how long it takes to carbonate a beer, especially if it's 5 gallons in one large vessel.)
 
Interesting. That's why I asked in Post #15 what he was talking about.

Reminds me of a Mr. Beer. Looks like a pain to clean.

Good luck, OP. I can't help you from here.
 
Interesting. That's why I asked in Post #15 what he was talking about.

Reminds me of a Mr. Beer. Looks like a pain to clean.

Good luck, OP. I can't help you from here.

There actually is something similar to it that is sort of a rip-off of a mr beer/pressure barrel hybrid.

beer-machine.jpg


brewmaster-model_shop-v2-2.JPG


It is kinda interesting that with it you can bottle in a closed system by pushing the beer into the bottles with gas.

I wonder....You can get nitrous chargers for whip cream machines, I wonder if you can do a stout in one of them with real nitrous?

I have a feeling that now that cooper's owns mr beer, we may be seeing pressure barrels on the market here. But maybe not, because like you all kinda thought, corny kegs are readily available here.
 
I have a feeling that now that cooper's owns mr beer, we may be seeing pressure barrels on the market here. But maybe not, because like you all kinda thought, corny kegs are readily available here.

Not readily available for long. My LHBS has been sold out of ball lock kegs. Their price? $65 +tax.

Next closest LHBS... extra 20 miles... $45... they get them in one or twice a month, sell out in a day or two each time.

Third closest LHBS... extra 30 miles downtown in traffic... $60, tax included, but they need to be rebuilt. Last used for Sambucha and left a bit dirty inside.

I bought some on CraigsList yesterday. Just happened to be browsing at the right time. Emailed 12 minutes after he posted, and I was the second person to email. 10 minutes later, he already had 5 more emails. I lucked out that the first guy flaked.

Yeesh. So much work just to get a keg.

:off:

Back on topic. Revvy's right, OP. That thing isn't going to carb as fast as bottles. It'll be a touch bubblier than still in a week, but not much more.
 
Guess it's just waiting now. I know it sounds like repeating myself but say if I wait until march and force carb, do you think it'd at least be caronated enough? Lol
 
That doesn't make sense. Force carbing is forcing it to carbonate quickly, usually using a keg and regulator on a CO2 tank. It's possible, though not really practical, in your situation... unless you want to buy a lot of cartridges.

You added sugar, so you're carbing naturally at this point.
 
Yeah I know i'm naturally carbing atm. But the site advised to do this at first then top off with cartridges when needed. I expect this beer to be gone in one night so hopefully it'll be nice and also carbed well
 
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