Thinking of buying Better Bottle -- a few questions

I'm thinking of picking up a Better Bottle but my LHBS only carries them special-order, so I won't be able to see one in person. Thought I'd ask a few questions here:

1.) 5 gallon or 6 gallon? I'm primarily brew 5-gallon batches, and the Better Bottle would be for secondary fermenting -- so I assume 5 gallon is best, to avoid oxidation. By the time I'm in secondary, I shouldn't need any head room for pressure/blowoff, right?

2.) Is a "ported" bottle just a Better Bottle with a hole in it, or is there something sealing the hole when the valve is not installed? In other words, can I use a ported Better Bottle without the valve installed?

3.) What's the preferred method for sealing -- carboy cap and airlock?

Thanks,
chris.

Dude

Consider using a 5 gal. cornie keg as a secondary instead. Cornie kegs are stainless steel, they are light weight, more rugged than a plastic better bottle. Unlike a better bottle you won't have to worry about light skunking your beer. And they cost about the same thing. The modification you'd have to make would be easy and with the large cornie lid you could easily dry hop if you wanted to.

And last but not least if you decide you want to keg you can do it straight out of the secondary keg.

An additional advantage of cornies is that you can rack using co2 and not expose your beer to oxygen.

Hmmm, maybe I'll try that. I just bought a kegerator kit but haven't bought a keg or C02 tank yet.

Where can I get one of these kegs?

Thanks,
chris.

If you are using the better bottle for secondary, the five gallon size is fine. The ported ones have a hole drilled, then you have to buy a bunch more stuff just to fill the hole. Get a regular BB it's cheaper.

CallMeZoot said:

Hmmm, maybe I'll try that. I just bought a kegerator kit but haven't bought a keg or C02 tank yet.

Where can I get one of these kegs?

Thanks,
chris.

Click to expand...

Here you go.

Well worth the investment. I just dragged two cornies outside as secondaries to cold condition. They're easy to move around.

Only drawback is that if you have a larger than 5 gallon batch, it can be a tight squeeze.

I say you compromise. Buy two BB's and five cornies.

Thanks for the link.

When you use a keg for secondary, can you just tap it directly at the end of the secondary period (after adding priming sugar)? Or do you transfer it to another keg to clear sediment, etc?

chris.

CallMeZoot said:

Thanks for the link.

When you use a keg for secondary, can you just tap it directly at the end of the secondary period? Or do you transfer it to another keg to clear sediment, etc?

chris.

Click to expand...

Either / or.

Wheats, wits and such, you're okay to tap direct. My other beers that I like crystal clear...I rerack to another keg.

I also cut or bend my liquid dip tubes so they aren't resting dirctly on the bottom of the keg. Get about 3/8's inch of clearance and you'll avoid a lot of sediment.

Do you add priming sugar directly to the keg? Does that effect how long it takes to carbonate?

chris.

I just finished using my BB for the first time. Its a ported one, with the racking doodad and It worked great. A little slow, but otherwise fine. I simply move the end of the racking adapter to just above the trub and badabing badaboom, siphoned off without sucking up any (or very little) trub.

I have the 6 gal. BB and so far, love it.

CallMeZoot said:

Do you add priming sugar directly to the keg? Does that effect how long it takes to carbonate?

chris.

Click to expand...

If you're bottling, you could add the corn sugar to the keg at the end of the conditioning period and then rack to bottles. You would not want to add sugar at the beginning, unless you have a keg dispensing setup.

I loved my better bottle to begin with, but then I started worrying about the scratches inside from cleaning. If you use a bb you can never scrub the inside with a carboy brush, hello contamination. Carboys break and can be dangerous. Kegs have bad dimensions for fermentation. Buckets have the same issues as better bottles (but you can reach inside). None are perfect.

CallMeZoot said:

Thanks for the link.

When you use a keg for secondary, can you just tap it directly at the end of the secondary period (after adding priming sugar)? Or do you transfer it to another keg to clear sediment, etc?

chris.

Click to expand...

After about 5 weeks in the keg I just put it in the fridge, dial the CO2 tank up to 15 PSI and let it sit in the fridge for a week. No need for priming sugar.

Unlike Muncher I just leave it in the original secondary keg. The first glass of beer has some sediment I just dump it out the second glass is usually clear.

On second thought you really don't need any modification for a secondary since they are good for 130 PSI. I just pop up the pressure relief valve every few days.

I gotten kegs from ebay and these guys

http://www.homebrewing.org/

abracadabra said:

http://www.homebrewing.org/

Click to expand...

Ok, I blame you for this - I clicked the link, and lo and behold, they are having a sale. So of course I ordered 4 more. Curse you!

Hahaha I can't blame you. I've bought from them before, and I'm tempted to do so again. They really do have good keg prices.

And they cost about the same thing.

Click to expand...

Where do you get good cornys for $22? cheapest I've found lately are $35+

What's the preferred method for sealing -- carboy cap and airlock

Click to expand...

I use Carboy caps, and a Drilled #10 stopper for blowoff

That's OK Jester I can take the heat. Glad to help out or whatever.

Yes Budbo $19

http://www.homebrewing.org/5-Gallon-Cornelious-Keg-Ball-Lock_p_0-70.html

I like that Sam Adams Winter Lager myself