98 hours and counting!! NO FERMENTATION!

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duffman2

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Alright, this aint funny. Yesterday at 74 hrs I repitched new yeast (same Danstar brand I used originally). I took the AHS guy's suggestion and stirred the hell out of it, then sprinkled the new dry yeast right on top of it.

This morning....nothing. Tonight at 98 Hours I am still at 1.060!!

NO, my hydrometer aint broke (I took a sample of H2O at 1.000)

I can't get new yeast till tomorrow night at 122 hours! Do I go ahead and assume I need some and get it for tomorrow?
- Will it even do anything for me if I do?
- Do I need 2 packs this time? 4? 8??
- Am I screwed??

Original recipe was an AHS Magic Hat #9 clone. I did a full boil, it took a long time (35 minutes) to cool down to pitching temp, but at 78 F I pitched my yeast. I then shook the ever loving crap out of it before taking a hydro reading and putting the lid on for it to do its thing. I edited this post to add this info to help people know some of my process. Still don't have nothing and maybe it'll come around when I get home tonight

I don't think I'm just flipping out, but I have no idea what to do. Anybody out there go this long w/out fermentation? Ever??
 
You just repitched yesterday. Wait a couple more days before you freak out. In my experience, dry yeast can take a little longer than liquid to get started. Just be careful you dont screw with it too much and introduce infection.
 
A Magic Hat #9 clone from AHS. I was really pumped about finding the recipe but now I'm a little worried about it turning out o.k
 
Sorry, brother, I can't imagine how frustrating that is to watch your brew sit quietly.

I've never used dry yeast, but have brewed hundreds of batches with liquid yeast and appropriate starters (see www.mrmalty.com) without a bad batch. IMHO, go with the "expensive" yeast that you can pitch, wash and reuse over and over again. Oh...and learn everything you can about starters. Yeast are the key to this whole business.

Best advice I could over is to get some liquid yeast and make an appropriately sized starter. Crash it and pitch your stagnant wort on top of the active yeast starter. At this point, take the advice of your LHS and shake the hell out of that thing. That's a surefire way to get things going. If your sanitation was adequate on the front end, you will most likely avoid any nasty off flavors from the bad bugs.
 
Did you re-hydrate the yeast? Is the Danstar the same lot / expiration as the first that you pitched? I have only used Danstar's champagn yeast and never had a problem.

If you do in fact go another 2 days w/ out dropping gravity, I would suggest a different kind of yeast such as Safale 05.

Make sure that you are very sanitary these next couple of days as the wort is fragile without fermentation taking place. Don't sweat it too much, you'll get it going.
 
You do know that danstar's Nottingham has been recalled for at least one batch and I've confirmed other batch numbers were also tainted duds. Pitch safale 05 or 04 on it and I bet you'll get fermentation within twenty hours.
 
- I did not rehydrate this time because I did the first time with no results. This is the second and third time I've used dry yeast and I've heard conflicting opinions on rehydrating.

- yes this is the same Danstar Windsor Yeast. I did not check expiration this time but I got the first from AHS and this one from my LHBS.

- no idea on the PH. Haven't gotten into that practice quite yet
 
I pitch all my yeast dry right from the pack, no rehydration, no starter. If your PH is to high or low, you may be killing your yeast or at least retarding the process.
 
You do know that danstar's Nottingham has been recalled for at least one batch and I've confirmed other batch numbers were also tainted duds. Pitch safale 05 or 04 on it and I bet you'll get fermentation within twenty hours.

Funny thing the SWMBO went to pick me up some yeast for my repitch while I was at work yesterday. AHS told me to go with the same stuff I used the first time. She called me at the store and I told her to buy it. Then I logged on to HBT and found a couple comments about the bad Danstar batches. Too Late, she already bought it.

Then again when you don't have fermentation, nothing's funny:cross:
 
I've never used dry yeast, but have brewed hundreds of batches with liquid yeast and appropriate starters (see www.mrmalty.com) without a bad batch. IMHO, go with the "expensive" yeast that you can pitch, wash and reuse over and over again. Oh...and learn everything you can about starters. Yeast are the key to this whole business.

There's absolutely nothing wrong with dry yeast. The op didn't give any info on his brew, besides the yeast isn't working. Maybe he pitched at to high of a temp, he was asked about his ph, no response, no recipe details.

It aint always the yeasts fault it's not working.

It's also highly unlikely that Ahs is still selling the bad sachets of Notty.
 
There's absolutely nothing wrong with dry yeast. The op didn't give any info on his brew, besides the yeast isn't working. Maybe he pitched at to high of a temp, he was asked about his ph, no response, no recipe details.

It aint always the yeasts fault it's not working.

Very true. As I stated, I'm speaking from a place of ignorance in regard to dry yeast. I've never used them. But to my knowledge, neither does any commercial brewery. My only point is that, if there's a place to spend money in this hobby, yeast is it. Of course there are a variety of other factors, and they all have a large effect on making beer. But to me, the two most important factors are yeast selection and pitching rate/temp (as you wisely mention).
 
Very true. As I stated, I'm speaking from a place of ignorance in regard to dry yeast. I've never used them. But to my knowledge, neither does any commercial brewery. My only point is that, if there's a place to spend money in this hobby, yeast is it. Of course there are a variety of other factors, and they all have a large effect on making beer. But to me, the two most important factors are yeast selection and pitching rate/temp (as you wisely mention).

Many award winning beers have been made from dry yeast. The notion that only "expensive" liquid yeast is acceptable is ludicrous.
 
Ok. Once again, I will state that I am operating from a place of ignorance in regard to dry yeast. I've never worked with it, and I don't know of any commercial brewery that uses it. If I'm wrong, I'm eager to hear about it. I'm hear to learn, just like everyone else. I'm sure that many home brewers and/or commercial breweries have used dry yeast to great effect. I just haven't come across them. I never said that only "expensive" liquid yeast is acceptable. I only offered my opinion. I even used that annoying message-board acronym "IMHO".

By the way. I know that you must get this all the time. Your profile picture is really, really sweet. Sweet crap almighty.

I'm going to go grab another pint of my Oktoberfest, for which I pitched a huge starter and used White Labs 833.
 
I am new to this, and I waited quite a bit for my first signs of fermentation, but not that long! Wow!
I would recommend what someone recommended to me. You might need to oxygenate your wort. I was told to shake the carboy or bucket vigorously to get more air into the wort. This really helped me out. I would give this a try.
Sorry, and good luck!
Prost,
- Chris
 
worst case scenario is you could wait another day or so and let the "slacker yeast" settle to the bottom. Syphon out the wort and put into another container and repitch another similar yeast. Couple of Q's... What did you use to sanitize your vessel with? if you used to much no rinse sanitizer (bleach mixture, etc) it will kill the yeast and in that case I would get rid of all of it. Its pretty odd that you are not getting any sweet fermentation action yet. Also does anyone have the lot numbers to the bad yeast? Dry yeast is far inferior to liquid yeast.... Just kidding, I will get my mash paddle out of the pot now.
 
worst case scenario is you could wait another day or so and let the "slacker yeast" settle to the bottom. Syphon out the wort and put into another container and repitch another similar yeast. Couple of Q's... What did you use to sanitize your vessel with? if you used to much no rinse sanitizer (bleach mixture, etc) it will kill the yeast and in that case I would get rid of all of it. Its pretty odd that you are not getting any sweet fermentation action yet. Also does anyone have the lot numbers to the bad yeast? Dry yeast is far inferior to liquid yeast.... Just kidding, I will get my mash paddle out of the pot now.

Nottingham Dry Yeast Lot #1081140118V.
 
You do know that danstar's Nottingham has been recalled for at least one batch and I've confirmed other batch numbers were also tainted duds. Pitch safale 05 or 04 on it and I bet you'll get fermentation within twenty hours.

The recall is long been over. We have been sent fresh Nottingham already. There is not a recall pack in the building.

Forrest
 
For clarification: There is nothing wrong with Dry yeast. He used Widsor not Nottingham. You do not need to rehydrate dry yeast.

I will send you another kit for all of your troubles. I can't tell you why it didn't start.

I will always stand behind what I sell. Just email the request to [email protected] Attn: Forrest


Forrest
 
Austin Homebrew Supply to the rescue once again. Way to go.:mug: I've always known your good people and you've replaced yeast for me in the past. Now if we can only get you to list your kit ingredients on your site.:cross:
 
Very true. As I stated, I'm speaking from a place of ignorance in regard to dry yeast. I've never used them. But to my knowledge, neither does any commercial brewery. My only point is that, if there's a place to spend money in this hobby, yeast is it. Of course there are a variety of other factors, and they all have a large effect on making beer. But to me, the two most important factors are yeast selection and pitching rate/temp (as you wisely mention).

Lots of commercial breweries use dry yeast.

Do you have any opinions about dry yeast based on qualities that remotely matter, or do you just assume it is bad because it is cheaper and because you guessed (wrongly) that commercial breweries do not use it?

I'll assume you use conical fermenters, right? I mean, I am not aware of a commercial brewery that uses a carboy and well, the conicals are more expensive.
 
Lots of commercial breweries use dry yeast.

Do you have any opinions about dry yeast based on qualities that remotely matter, or do you just assume it is bad because it is cheaper and because you guessed (wrongly) that commercial breweries do not use it?

+1!!!

If ti's not used commercially then why do dry yeast companies have "ndustrial divisions? Like this?


Beer Industrial Brewing Why use Fermentis Yeast

mramann, it sounds like your admitted ignorance is based on word of mouth that comes from anti-dry yeast propaganda that evolved from the bad old daysbefore 1978 and legal homebrewing, when the only yeast that was available came from Europe in dry cakes that may have sat in the hot cargo hold of a ship for months, then sat under the lid of a can a blue ribbon malt extract for god knows how long.

I do believe that in the 21st century a company is able to measure out grams of dry ingredients pretty accurately. And millions of dollars both from the hobby and professional brewing industry would be at stake if they couldn't turn out a consistent product.

Good quality dry yeast has been used by commercial breweries for decades if not longer, and it was only since Homebrewing was legalized was the stuff we know available to homebrewers.

Danstars website even alludes to this...

The use of active dried professional yeasts for amateur brewing is a relatively new phenomenon introduced by Lallemand. Now, choose your active dried yeast for brewing with confidence. Ask for Danstar superior quality yeasts at your local retailer.

So most of those notions you have really are just biased carryovers from the bad old days.

I use dry yeast for 99% of my beers, for basic ales I use safale 05, for more british styles I us safale 04 and for basic lagers I use saflager..

The only time I use liquid yeast is if I am making a beer where the yeast drives the style, where certain flavor characteristics are derived from the yeast, such as phenols. Like Belgian beers, where you get spicy/peppery flavors from the yeast and higher temp fermentation. Or let's say a wheat beer (needing a lowly flocculant yest) or a Kholsch, where the style of the beer uses a specific yeast strain that is un available in dry form.

I have found that a lot of new brewers especially, THINK they HAVE to use liquid yeast, but in reality most ales can be made with Notty, Windsor, Us-05, Us-04 and many lagers with basic Saflager.....7-8 bucks a pop for liquid as opposed to $1.50-2.50 for dry, with more cell count, is imho just a waste of money for the majority of a brewer's recipe bank...most commercial ales us a limited range of strains, and those liquid strains are really the same strains that the afore mentioned dry strains cover, for example Us-05 is the famed "Chico strain", so if you are paying 7-8 bucks for Wyeast 1056 American/Chico Ale Yeast, and you STILL have to make a starter to have enough viable cells, then you are ripping yourself off, in terms of time and money....

But if you are looking for a "clean" yeast profile, meaning about 90% of american ales, the 05, or nottingham is the way to go. Need "Bready" or yeasty for English ales, then 04 or windsor. Want a clean, low profile lager yeast- saflager usually does the trick.

That's one thing about dry...you don't need to reproduce anymore yeasts than are already in the packets of dry.

in fact any of the dry yeast haters should go back and read just what Palmer says about dry yeast.

6.3 Yeast Forms

Yeast come in two main product forms, dry and liquid. (There is also another form, available as pure cultures on petri dishes or slants, but it is generally used as one would use liquid yeast.) Dry yeast are select, hardy strains that have been dehydrated for storability. There are a lot of yeast cells in a typical 7 gram packet. For best results, it needs to be re-hydrated before it is pitched. For the first-time brewer, a dry ale yeast is highly recommended.

Dry yeast is convenient for the beginning brewer because the packets provide a lot of viable yeast cells, they can be stored for extended periods of time and they can be prepared quickly on brewing day. It is common to use one or two packets (7 - 14 grams) of dried yeast for a typical five gallon batch. This amount of yeast, when properly re-hydrated, provides enough active yeast cells to ensure a strong fermentation. Dry yeast can be stored for extended periods (preferably in the refrigerator) but the packets do degrade with time. This is one of the pitfalls with brewing from the no-name yeast packets taped to the top of a can of malt extract. They are probably more than a year old and may not be very viable. It is better to buy another packet or three of a reputable brewer's yeast that has been kept in the refrigerator at the brewshop. Some leading and reliable brands of dry yeast are DCL Yeast, Yeast Labs (marketed by G.W. Kent, produced by Lallemand of Canada), Cooper's, DanStar (produced by Lallemand), Munton & Fison and Edme.

Dry yeasts are good but the rigor of the dehydration process limits the number of different ale strains that are available and in the case of dry lager yeast, eliminates them almost entirely. A few dry lager yeasts do exist, but popular opinion is that they behave more like ale yeasts than lager. DCL Yeast markets two strains of dry lager yeast, Saflager S-189 and S-23, though only S-23 is currently available in a homebrewing size. The recommended fermentation temperature is 48-59°F. I would advise you to use two packets per 5 gallon batch to be assured of a good pitching rate.

The only thing missing with dry yeast is real individuality, which is where liquid yeasts come in. Many more different strains of yeast are available in liquid form than in dry.

The only real "criticism" of dry yeast, is that, due to how they are made to be stable, that there are not many varieties available, that and the warning to avoid those "no-name" yeasts under the lids of extract can and to go with one of the "proven" strains.

No yeast bashing by him at all......So if HE doesn't bash dry yeast.....:D
 
I've got nothing to add...really weird it hasn't started, but maybe the second pack of Windsor will kick in any hour now??

Forrest, on a side note, you really do stand out as a great retailer when it comes to prices and customer support...if I didn't actually live in the Twin Cities with Midwest and NB, I'd be buying from you.
 
Well, this thread is not about dry vs liquid so much as trying to help this brewer who apparently has trouble getting his batch to ferment. I highly doubt PH is the problem. The beer was a kit, and that should be in the wide range of PH that yeast will operate in.

As far as rehydrating, it's personal choice. Experts claim that it will provide more healthy yeast at the start, but I have not heard of anyone having a problem not rehydrating either.

I'd suggest waiting like 3 days and then checking. Dry yeast "can" take a day to really get going and they reproduce a bunch at the start, so fermentation can actually take a day or two to really get going.
 
Just to clarify.... once again.... the Notty recall was due to slow starts. Some people claimed that they think they had some off flavors. But, if you read the recall thread, you'll find that 99% of the issues people ahd with that batch of Notty was slow starts.
 
I've got nothing to add...really weird it hasn't started, but maybe the second pack of Windsor will kick in any hour now??

Forrest, on a side note, you really do stand out as a great retailer when it comes to prices and customer support...if I didn't actually live in the Twin Cities with Midwest and NB, I'd be buying from you.

You still could. You might like our recipes better, I know most people do.

Forrest
 
Have you taken a hydrometer reading? I have had a customer that saw no signs of fermentation in his airlock so he told me it wouldn't start. I gave him more yeast but that didn't work. He brought the batch in and I opened the lid. There wasn't much evidence of fermentation but, when I took a hydrometer reading it was finished fermenting. That is why it wouldn't start the second time.

Also, what temperature do you have the batch sitting at. If it is below 70 degrees or it is in a place where the temperature goes up and down, that may be the problem as well.

Forrest
 
Did you remember to aerate? That'll slow down the start considerably, and I don't see that anyone has mentioned it.

Shake the crap out of it and then come back in a few day.
 
For clarification: There is nothing wrong with Dry yeast. He used Widsor not Nottingham. You do not need to rehydrate dry yeast.

I will send you another kit for all of your troubles. I can't tell you why it didn't start.

I will always stand behind what I sell. Just email the request to [email protected] Attn: Forrest


Forrest


Forrest,

thank you very much for the gesture. I will still try my best to save this batch because I do not quit until the Fat Lady is eating post opera pie. I never thought this was any of AHS's fault, but I am still absolutely mystified on why it has been this long with NO fermentation. As of last night at 98 hours I have no krausen and NO drop on the working hydrometer. So......I don't know what to do but wait it out again for another couple of days before it starts stinking like a dead walrus. Hopefully it will come around.
 
Revvy,

thanks for the great write up on dry yeast. I wasn't worried before I used it, but this experience had me ready to swear it off forever. I now think I'm keep giving this batch CPR until it spits beach water in my face.

But I will definitely give dry yeast another try because I do believe this has to be an isolated incident.

Thanks to everyone for their responses and if you think of anything else, definitely let me know!! I'm not giving up yet!!!!! :mug::ban::mug:
 
Revvy,

thanks for the great write up on dry yeast. I wasn't worried before I used it, but this experience had me ready to swear it off forever. I now think I'm keep giving this batch CPR until it spits beach water in my face.

But I will definitely give dry yeast another try because I do believe this has to be an isolated incident.

Thanks to everyone for their responses and if you think of anything else, definitely let me know!! I'm not giving up yet!!!!! :mug::ban::mug:

Actually it wasn't for you, it was more for the other guy that Remilard had responded to.

As to your issue, you have us all stymied, I know you've taken hydro readings, waited 72 hours and pitched more yeast, so you have done everything that most of the basic things we suggest to do...I wish I had more amswers/suggestions. We just have to see what this new yeast does.

Oh what temp are you fermenting at?
 
Actually it wasn't for you, it was more for the other guy that Remilard had responded to.

As to your issue, you have us all stymied, I know you've taken hydro readings, waited 72 hours and pitched more yeast, so you have done everything that most of the basic things we suggest to do...I wish I had more amswers/suggestions. We just have to see what this new yeast does.

Oh what temp are you fermenting at?

I've been real careful to hold it between 68 and 72 F the ENTIRE time it's been sitting there.

When I first dumped it in the bucket I brought it down to 65 F before settling back up to around 70 F. I'm here in Houston so I've kept it wrapped in wet blankets with 2 fans on it, and I have had my ice packs changed out regularly.
 
Duffman,

I still wonder if maybe Danstar's bad batch wasn't limited to just the recalled batch of Nottingham. Companies aren't going to recall product simply because it's defective, they usually need incentive in the way of lost business to initiate that.

They said there was a printer that was puncturing the sachets on that batch of Nottingham, but as long as it took to discover that as being the cause I don't see how it could be limited to one batch.

I don't mean this to sound negative about Danstar. I think that if any company had this problem they would do the same thing, because there's not much else you can do. It's not really a danger to anybody's health or anything, so there is not a lot of risk in them riding it out.
 
Duffman,

I still wonder if maybe Danstar's bad batch wasn't limited to just the recalled batch of Nottingham. Companies aren't going to recall product simply because it's defective, they usually need incentive in the way of lost business to initiate that.

They said there was a printer that was puncturing the sachets on that batch of Nottingham, but as long as it took to discover that as being the cause I don't see how it could be limited to one batch.

I don't mean this to sound negative about Danstar. I think that if any company had this problem they would do the same thing, because there's not much else you can do. It's not really a danger to anybody's health or anything, so there is not a lot of risk in them riding it out.

I couldn't agree more. Many of us used sachets other than the recall and have had no fermentation. Not slow. Nothing.
 
Duffman,

I still wonder if maybe Danstar's bad batch wasn't limited to just the recalled batch of Nottingham. Companies aren't going to recall product simply because it's defective, they usually need incentive in the way of lost business to initiate that.

They said there was a printer that was puncturing the sachets on that batch of Nottingham, but as long as it took to discover that as being the cause I don't see how it could be limited to one batch.

I don't mean this to sound negative about Danstar. I think that if any company had this problem they would do the same thing, because there's not much else you can do. It's not really a danger to anybody's health or anything, so there is not a lot of risk in them riding it out.

I am not saying this is what happened here at all, but you are absolutely right. I worked in a retail hardware store for many years. I've seen companies ship bad stuff week after week, even if we got returns on 25% of the stuff and they had to refund our money. Of course it worked both ways too. There were products we know didn't work, like a liquid you sprayed on your driveway before it snowed and it was supposed to melt the first 3 inches and everything else 'slide right off', that we knew full well didn't work and would tell if asked our opinion of it, but there was a ready market for it so it was on the shelves. 40% may have came back, but we got 100% back on anything that was returned to the manufacture, so as long as 60% sold we were happy. There is no law that says anything has to work, only that you provide a warranty if it costs more than 10.00. It just can't be dangerous.

I would recommend notifying the yeast company you have a problem, even though Austin Hombrew is going to fix it for you. They may be unaware they have a problem. I doubt they employ someone to eavesdrop on brewing forums. There might be 100's more like you out there that are newbies and it's their first batch and they think it's their fault, when it COULD be the yeast, and you can't fault them if they don't know. It's easy to send an email. Hop (pun intended) over to their site a drop a note.
 
This is clearly an isolated incident. I have had batches that just won't start no matter what you do. It happens once in a great while.

Lets don't trash a company. They stood up at recalled a lot of yeast but replaced it quickly. We sell about 100,000 packages of Danstar yeast a year. Trust me this is an isolated incedent.

They could have not recalled and 3/4 of the people would think it was something they did.

Forrest
 
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