bdjohns1

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Join Date:

12-23-2011

Last Activity:

12-12-2013 1:36 PM

Likes Given: 2

35 Likes on 33 Posts 

    ABOUT ME

  • Beer,woodworking,technology
  • Manufacturing Continuous Improvement Manager for a large cheese make plant
  • Low gravity APA
  • Woodchuck cider knockoff
  • Married
  • Sun Prairie
  • Wi

LATEST ACTIVITY

  • Posted in thread: Pasteurization? Food safety? on 11-28-2013 at 05:14 PM
    You would be safe to assume the sanitary design standards for a commercial
    nano/micro/macro-brewery would be comparable to any food manufacturing plant, including
    separate sinks for hand washing and p...

  • Posted in thread: High Temperature PBW Solution for Clean-In-Place Submersible Pump Options on 11-28-2013 at 05:05 PM
    140F should be OK for CIP. I work in a dairy plant, and when we run CIP circuits, the max
    temperature during caustic (aka PBW) cycles is 155F. 140F should be more than sufficient for
    beer circuits - y...

  • Posted in thread: New stainless kettle showing signs of rust? HELP! on 04-20-2013 at 04:42 AM
    The 3rd shows the bottom weld ring and you can see there are nodules of iron that have come to
    the surface and started to rust. Looking at the pictures a little closer, I think it might be a
    combinati...

  • Posted in thread: New stainless kettle showing signs of rust? HELP! on 04-20-2013 at 04:35 AM
    Yes I agree. Dairy and Pharm are more stringent.The Pharma guys are where it gets really nuts.
    Basically, you need a near-mirror finish. I think we accept surfaces finished to roughly
    400-grit.

  • Posted in thread: New stainless kettle showing signs of rust? HELP! on 04-20-2013 at 04:19 AM
    Our welds are all within spec. AWS Standard D18.2. We're clearly between a 2 or 3. know
    people like to one up each other and prove how much they know but the two things you're trying
    to compare real...

  • Posted in thread: New stainless kettle showing signs of rust? HELP! on 04-20-2013 at 03:26 AM
    Second picture you see both couplers rusting and the weld ring along the bottom is rusting as
    well. It looks like the couplers were welded and the ground flush which really isn't the proper
    way to do ...

  • Posted in thread: Solder versus weldless bulk head on 04-20-2013 at 02:59 AM
    After reading some DIY threads I replaced the remaining weldless fittings with dimpled/soldered
    couplings. All of the fittings are solidly attached and it was pretty easy after reading some
    DIY theads...

  • Posted in thread: Dip tubes with tri clover valves on 04-14-2013 at 02:20 PM
    Unfortunately I bought my kettle through Glaciertanks and it only has a 1" TC so the
    Brewershardware.com tri clover won't work for me.Adam1" and 1.5" tri-clamps share the same
    flange diameter. The abr...

  • Posted in thread: TRI-clamp herms coil? on 01-30-2013 at 12:17 AM
    Explain what you mean by this. I've not used a HERMS system yet, so I'm having trouble
    understanding your meaning. I do fly sparge, so you know.Well, you'll be going from the outlet
    of your MLT to a p...

  • Posted in thread: TRI-clamp herms coil? on 01-29-2013 at 04:47 PM
    For a 5 gallon, it would be fine. I usually shoot for about 8 gallons pre-boil, so my mash-in
    water is usually just shy of 4 gallons.One tip: assuming you fly-sparge, send your water into
    the MLT thro...

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