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Home Brew Forums > Wine, Mead, Cider, Sake & Soda > Soda Making > Dedicated Sping Water Soda Water Machine Build




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Old 08-15-2013, 04:21 PM   #41
sarink
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Basically exactly like yours. Except instead of pulling the tap, I push a button on a website. This button will keep my "tap" (high pressure solenoid valve) open until it detects X amount of liquid has passed through, then it will close again.

However... I need the pressure be controlled, because when I send the signal to open the valve I don't want soda spraying out at 100psi. If only I had a way to reduce the output pressure between the McCann tank and my solenoid valve, everything would work great.



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Old 08-20-2013, 02:20 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sarink View Post
...I need the pressure be controlled, because when I send the signal to open the valve I don't want soda spraying out at 100psi. If only I had a way to reduce the output pressure between the McCann tank and my solenoid valve, everything would work great.
If you have a correct type nozzle, you wont need to reduce the pressure as the nozzle design handles it.


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Old 08-21-2013, 09:16 AM   #43
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I came across this forum doing some research for my own postmix soda system (using Wunderbar guns), and I just had to join into this thread..

First of all, Roger, thank you for the inspiration to simply stick the carbonator tank into the fridge. I was looking for a shortcut that would save me having to spend an extra hundred plus bucks on a cold plate or jockey box coils.. I have also just purchased a McCann's BigMac ($112 shipped, used but good condition), and I can't wait to get started on it.

I didn't see if anyone asked yet, but how long is your CO2 tank lasting just making seltzer? I will be using Flojet CO2 powered syrup pumps in mine, so I know it will go faster, but since there's not much difference in price here for filling a 20# vs a 50# tank (beyond the difference in the initial tank purchase), I'm wondering which I should go with.. It will be mostly soda water use.


Also, I understand what sarink is trying to do.. Have you ever seen the fountains that McDonalds has where they have one head with a bunch of buttons? Or the new Coke "Freestyle" machines they are putting into Wendy's (and probably others, but Wendy's is the only place I've seen them yet) with the touchscreens? He's going in that direction, where the brixing is done by the computer - measuring the syrup dose and water dose, rather than having to constantly balance the soda to water ratio. It also seems like he is going for more of the "old fashioned" soda method, where the pressure of the water mixes the drink in the cup, rather than dispensing them together. Since the water is controlled by solenoid, he can't use the traditional push-pull head.. I would say simply restricting the flow should slow it down.. Maybe a half-closed ball valve, or a pair of reducers inline (drop it to 1/8" then back to 1/4"?)

Anyways, glad to be here, looking forward to trying some of the soda recipes.. And maybe eventually trying my hand at brewing!

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Old 08-21-2013, 03:41 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Taz420NJ View Post
I didn't see if anyone asked yet, but how long is your CO2 tank lasting just making seltzer? I will be using Flojet CO2 powered syrup pumps in mine, so I know it will go faster, but since there's not much difference in price here for filling a 20# vs a 50# tank (beyond the difference in the initial tank purchase), I'm wondering which I should go with.. It will be mostly soda water use.
Welcome and thank you! Glad you are joining the discussion.

I've got the 20 lb tank and I'm still on the first fill. So, I don't know the answer yet but it is going to last a long time.

I worked in a cafe back in my high school days and remember that their soda machine used a 20 lb tank. Seems to me that for home use anything larger would be overkill.
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Old 08-28-2013, 01:20 AM   #45
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Hey Roger, I got my carbonator, and when I took the terminal cover off the motor, it has the probe wired inline with the white (neutral).. Now where I went to school, it is a HUGE no-no to switch the neutral in any device..






Can you tell me if yours was wired the same way or maybe mine had just been monkeyed with or it was a factory error (it has a crimp cap on the joint, and while most people wouldn't use those to do a hack job, you never know).. I just want to be sure before I hook it up.

Thanks!

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Old 08-28-2013, 08:48 PM   #46
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The picture of mine is in photo #26. It's the same as yours.

It is the hot (black) that is switched. The neutral goes to straight to the motor. Both the white and black wires in the wire to the sensor switch carry the hot.
Those type of crimp caps are also standard for electrical devices like this.

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Old 08-28-2013, 11:46 PM   #47
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That pic must not have loaded when I was originally reading the thread because I don't remember seeing that.. But as a matter of fact, on yours as well it is not the hot, it IS the neutral that is switched. Look again - the black (hot) from the power inlet cord connects directly to the motor terminal. The white (neutral) from the power inlet cord connects to the black of the probe pigtail, and then the white from the pigtail comes back and connects to the other motor terminal.... So it is definitely switching the neutral..

I just can't fathom why they would wire the motors like this because it violates electric code...

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Old 08-28-2013, 11:59 PM   #48
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Looked again and you are right, the lower wire in my photo is the one that goes to the switch. I don't know why they do it this way but with 120V, it's not going to make any difference to switch the white wire. You aren't supposed to use GFCI's with electric motors so does it make it against code? I don't know. It might be interesting to call McCann and ask if they have a reason or not.

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Old 10-17-2013, 03:18 AM   #49
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Roger55 - thanks for accomplishing what many of us were hoping to cobble together, but never seem to get around to it. I'm one of those bottle shakers who is looking for a better solution, and I think you have hit on a workable design using common parts.

Did you look at Lancer for carbonators? They have compact units. Or, is McCann so common the price can't be beat for availability?

Did you consider one of the smaller undercounter fridges instead of a full size unit? Is there something I'm missing if I go smaller?

Thanks for all details

Mentor1

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Old 10-17-2013, 04:22 AM   #50
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Quote:
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Did you look at Lancer for carbonators? They have compact units. Or, is McCann so common the price can't be beat for availability?
I really wasn't looking at a particular brand.
I just looked for good deals on ebay and found a unused one that happened to be a McCann. McCann makes smaller units than the one I have too.

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Did you consider one of the smaller undercounter fridges instead of a full size unit? Is there something I'm missing if I go smaller?
Mine isn't really a full-sized fridge. I'd say it's an apartment sized unit. A smaller fridge would work but I like the fact I can store the extra water jugs in the larger one. My wife likes having the freezer for storing pecans too. Since mine is in the garage, it wasn't necessary to go with small fridge either.

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Thanks for all details
Mentor1
You are welcome. Keep us informed if you build a system.


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