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Old 07-03-2013, 03:24 PM   #21
roger55
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Originally Posted by PDM View Post
What are good sources for seltzer side taps or towers (to convert to drilled keg fridge)?
I got mine from Kegman. I called and he had just a couple of them in stock. At that time, he said the demand was way higher than the supply so I was lucky to get the one I wanted.


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Old 07-22-2013, 11:43 PM   #22
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Does that pressure tank constantly hold a full 2 gallons of (uncarbonated) water then? What happens when your reservoir gets empty (or if its entire capacity is < 2 gallons)? I was thinking of using one of these for my reservoir (1.13 gallons) http://www.amazon.com/Brita-35530-Ultramax-Dispenser/dp/B00009LHZH/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid=1374535092&sr=8-17

It looks like all the Mccann Carbonators are the same (regardless of the model number, it seems there are just a few different sizes) is there a reason you chose the (E400397) one you did?



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Old 07-23-2013, 03:11 PM   #23
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Does that pressure tank constantly hold a full 2 gallons of (uncarbonated) water then? What happens when your reservoir gets empty (or if its entire capacity is < 2 gallons)? I was thinking of using one of these for my reservoir (1.13 gallons) http://www.amazon.com/Brita-35530-Ultramax-Dispenser/dp/B00009LHZH/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid=1374535092&sr=8-17

It looks like all the Mccann Carbonators are the same (regardless of the model number, it seems there are just a few different sizes) is there a reason you chose the (E400397) one you did?
By design, the pressure tank can't be totally full. The pressure determines how full it is. If I had to guess, I'd say that it would be 1/3 full when the pressure pump kicks on and 2/3 full when it kicks off.

I chose that particular model of carbonator only because I got a really good deal on it.
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Old 07-23-2013, 03:24 PM   #24
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Very impressive setup, my soda water is merely force carbonated in a corny keg and the kids love to add vanilla syrup etc. I'll have to try the lemon and splenda. I'll even blend one of my beers on tap with the soda water (shandygaff) if I'm just mowing the lawn in hot weather or working on the house.

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Old 08-09-2013, 02:32 AM   #25
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Finally got all these parts.

Couple more questions for you...
1. There's a steel line connecting the McCann motor to the McCann tank. I assume this is because it's pressurized? How much pressure are we talking? You can safely replace this with standard tubing and hose clamps?
2. Did you just use standard 1/2" NPT female fittings for the Shurflo pump? Or did you find their "special" little plastic ones (or equivalent) somewhere?
3. There's a green wire coming off of my McCann tank, I'm assuming this is a ground wire? Why isn't it just inside/connected to the same wire harness that already connects the tank to the motor? Can/should I do this myself (or is there a reason it wasn't done that way)?
4. What's that base you have for your WaterWorker tank? Did you make it?
5. Just to be very extra positive, this is how everything connects, right? (excuse my awesome drawings :P)

Thanks!



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Old 08-09-2013, 03:35 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by sarink View Post
Finally got all these parts.
Couple more questions for you...
1. There's a steel line connecting the McCann motor to the McCann tank. I assume this is because it's pressurized? How much pressure are we talking? You can safely replace this with standard tubing and hose clamps?
Yes, no problem at all.

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2. Did you just use standard 1/2" NPT female fittings for the Shurflo pump? Or did you find their "special" little plastic ones (or equivalent) somewhere?
Yes, I did have one of the PVC ones crack on my because I over tightened it. So, those have been replaced with brass since I took that photo. (Got water all over when it cracked.).

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3. There's a green wire coming off of my McCann tank, I'm assuming this is a ground wire? Why isn't it just inside/connected to the same wire harness that already connects the tank to the motor? Can/should I do this myself (or is there a reason it wasn't done that way)?
I don't understand your question or confusion on that. Isn't yours wired like this?



All you do is get some #16 wire that has a ground included (I used an old extension cord) to extend the wire so it's long enough to go from the carbonator motor to the carbonator tank. If you look at one of my original photos inside the fridge you can see the watertight electrical conduit body I used to make the splice.

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4. What's that base you have for your WaterWorker tank? Did you make it?
Yes I made it. It's simply a piece of 6" PVC pipe.

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5. Just to be very extra positive, this is how everything connects, right? (excuse my awesome drawings :P)
Yes that's it. Except the line going from the Water Worker pressure tank to the carbonator connects to at tee at the bottom of the tank along with the input from the Shurflo pressure motor.

Also, you will need to lower the pressure in the bladder of the Water Worker tank. It comes shipped with too much pressure. Just use a tire gauge on the air valve on the top. It is supposed to be set at just a little under the cut-on pressure of the Shurflo pressure pump. As I remember the cut-on pressure of the Shurflo wasn't in the specs and I estimated it and adjusted the pressure in the bladder to about 25 psi. Must have been fine as it works great that way.
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Old 08-11-2013, 04:17 AM   #27
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Thanks.

Do you think a PC power cord would be alright instead? The wire looks thinner, but I mean, this could power a 1000 watt desktop PSU, it should be fine?

Also curious, what size tubing are you running everywhere?

Lastly, I opened up the carbonator tank and the float was all discolored and rusty. Did you ever inspect yours? What's the best way to clean this thing?

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Old 08-11-2013, 05:04 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sarink View Post
Thanks.
Do you think a PC power cord would be alright instead? The wire looks thinner, but I mean, this could power a 1000 watt desktop PSU, it should be fine?
Also curious, what size tubing are you running everywhere?
Lastly, I opened up the carbonator tank and the float was all discolored and rusty. Did you ever inspect yours? What's the best way to clean this thing?
I just looked at my carbonator motor. It says it draws 6 amps continuous. That would be 720 watts. 16 (awg) gauge wire should be fine for this. A PC power cord is probably 16 gauge. It should say on it.

My carbonator had never been used and the float sensor looked perfect. Not sure what to do about your rust situation. I'm sure they can be ordered and replaced if you have trouble cleaning it up.

I used 3/8" food grade tubing for everything except the CO2 line and the line to the dispenser head where I used 1/4". I bought the ear type crimp clamps for all this and have the special tool for crimping them. The 1/4" line I ordered from here:
http://www.installationpartssupply.com/ (I ordered all my ear clamps and a bunch of fittings from them too.)
The 3/8" tubing I got from Lowe's.

Thank you for sending me out to look at all this!
I just noticed that my 3/8" line going from the carbonator motor to the carbonator tank is ballooning. I need to now do some research for a better tubing for this. I'm afraid it might eventually burst if I leave it. My 1/4" line is a lot more stiff than the 3/8" so I might order some 3/8" from Installation Parts and replace all my Lowe's tubing.
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Old 08-11-2013, 07:15 PM   #29
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I think it's 18 gauge. Thanks for the numbers. I can't read the sticker on mine. I went here and did the math http://phd.boschsecurity.com/wiregage_cal.cfm,18 gauge should be more than fine (I already had done it anyways :P). I actually just wired a new cord from the tank. So the motor and the tank each have their own plug, and that little pigtail is unused. Is there any reason this shouldn't work? I noticed that you have them wired together still?

I used some vinegar and 300 grit sandpaper. Took everything apart and cleaned it up. It was tedious, but it looks good now. There's a few spots that wouldn't come out, but I can live with that (considering I got this for $150 shipped).

My tank was welded to the base. Was yours not? Or did you break them?

It looks like you've got a braided hose there. Do you think your ballooning is the reason it was originally a steel hose? How much pressure is the motor putting out?

On the motor inlet, mine has a T. It looks like in one of your photos yours does too, and you had put a clear piece of tube there which just connected to nothing? What is this? Should it be capped off, or can it be left open?

Where all are you using ball check valves? 1 on the CO2 inlet on the tank, 1 on the water inlet on the tank, anywhere else? On mine, there was one on the motor outlet (which I actually discovered to have a broken spring, so I'm glad I disassembled everything to inspect/clean) and also one one the tank's water inlet (which seems redundant?)

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Old 08-11-2013, 07:58 PM   #30
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Quote:
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I think it's 18 gauge. Thanks for the numbers. I can't read the sticker on mine. I went here and did the math http://phd.boschsecurity.com/wiregage_cal.cfm,18 gauge should be more than fine (I already had done it anyways :P). I actually just wired a new cord from the tank. So the motor and the tank each have their own plug, and that little pigtail is unused. Is there any reason this shouldn't work? I noticed that you have them wired together still?

I used some vinegar and 300 grit sandpaper. Took everything apart and cleaned it up. It was tedious, but it looks good now. There's a few spots that wouldn't come out, but I can live with that (considering I got this for $150 shipped).
My tank was welfed to the base. Was yours not? Or did you break them?
It looks like you've got a braided hose there. Do you think your ballooning is the reason it was originally a steel hose? How much pressure is the motor putting out?
On the motor inlet, mine has a T. It looks like in one of your photos yours does too, and you had put a clear piece of tube there which just connected to nothing? What is this? Should it be capped off, or can it be left open?
Where all are you using ball check valves? 1 on the CO2 inlet on the tank, 1 on the water inlet on the tank, anywhere else? On mine, there was one on the motor outlet (which I actually discovered to have a broken spring, so I'm glad I disassembled everything to inspect/clean) and also one one the tank's water inlet (which seems redundant?)
No, my tank was screwed to the base. If you have to cut welds, you are going to have to be darn careful.

Yes, the 3/8 tubing is braided but I think the problem is that the Lowe's tubing is probably cheap off-shore made stuff. I would guess McCann used a steel line for longevity. I don't know what the pressure is but the pressure relief valve is a 180 psi so the pressure is going to be less than that. The braided tubing at Installation Parts is rated at 200 psi. I am going to get a 100 foot roll of that and get rid of all the Lowes crap. (So glad you brought all this back up. I never should have bought tubing from Lowes.)

You need to leave that small tubing on the tee at the carbonator motor output hanging just like it is. It's the vent for the backflow preventer valve. The only other check valve is where the CO2 line goes into the carbonator tank. It was in place as shipped. Mine did not come with a check valve for the water inlet. It must be optional.

Take some photos and post them. I'd like to see your setup. I'm sure others are following this too.


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