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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Hops Growing > starting a hop farm 2 acres to start..then double every year till i hit 32 acres
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Old 06-08-2012, 04:28 AM   #21
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GVH Dan... Just voted for you... The info you"re offering up is great!!! Thanks for sharing your knowledge.

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Old 06-08-2012, 11:54 AM   #22
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Thanks for the vote, we're getting there.

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Old 06-08-2012, 01:25 PM   #23
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Can you leave them in those pots over winter without having cold injury?

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Old 06-08-2012, 05:13 PM   #24
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Just some more, we found 16 feet above the ground about right. almost 90% of your harvest is in the top 6 feet so if you are under that you risk reducing your harvest. On the other end, going above 16 feet becomes a much longer payback because of the extra costs to get up there.
Ahh. 16 feet sounds a lot easier then 18... hav u gone 18 feet? I guess 2 feet isn't much of a change..and yes the top 1/3 of the plant is yr most production... when things are up I will be rasing lambs in the hop fields...free mowing! Plus they will eat everything 4 feet and below the bines..so it saves on labor....

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I have extensive training in propagation techniques ( plus i have been to horticulture college) and thru doing a few trials test first, i will be able to clone these plants in the 1000's..

LMAO
So exactly how much weed did you grow in college?!?!
Haha....was wondering when some one was going to catch that.. hmm well now u mention it...probly more then everyone in this forum combined.. .if u go just on numbers...was working out west at a. Friends dispensary and I did the cloning...working with aeroponics we would clone 500 plants at a time like it was cake.i.. I have done upwards of over 15,000 maybe into the 20K range..I lost count...but that was a few years ago...

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Very cool Rudds (and the rest who are producers of lupulin love). Just a thought on your hop production. How did you determine the quantities for each variety? Was it demand, availability, projected yield? The reason I ask is that Sterling and Centennial fetch some of the highest prices per oz. around here, but the other varieties go for much less. Willamette is actually dirt cheap. I see that you are starting with a large percentage of Sterling, which makes sense, but I'm curious on the lower amount of Centennial. I figured centennial would be one to grow a lot of, as it sells for more, is a popular hop, and can be used in bittering, flavor/aroma, and dry hopping (i.e. more applications = more consumption). I'm not informed on the hop availability, demand, and pricing on the east coast, though.
U hit the nail on the donkey...! Availability..... however I had. A little choice They only had that much cascade left...soo 300 was it...and didn't even had centennial so I sourced the remaining stock from. Another farm.... I will be focusing my cloning efforts this year on getting my numbers up. For cascade, centennial, pearl ,willaimette and more sterling... funny u should ask. There's always a story for everything..lol. I chose Willaimette because the rihzomes came from 20 year old vines ..(meaning huge seed stocks) easiest to grow for first time grower is the others mess up. plus it was a cool sounding lname , u can't find them around here, people are growing fuggle (which I don't like) and this is a old school cross..that has slight citris note in it and a spicy woody aroma....u can use this as a dual purpose hop. Great for apas, ipas and dark beers...brewing this hop with cascade I herd was borderline life changing... cant wait...

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Can yocu leave them in those pots over winter without having cold injury?
Yes u can..the hops have to have a cold conditioning over winter to grow the following spring...when I get my greenhouse up I may if I'm still in town keep some in pots. And condition them for a month or 2 then bring a few 100 in the greenhouse to start growing as cloning stock for the following year...will use. MH and LEDs to extend the daylight house to keep the plants vegging all winter long..
2012-06-07-16.35.11.jpg   2012-06-07-16.35.35.jpg   2012-06-05-19.56.57.jpg   2012-06-05-19.57.29.jpg  
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Old 06-08-2012, 05:39 PM   #25
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In the pics..yes I did loose some..well a lot maybe I'm still counting maybe a few 100? I'm moving them all over and transfered them on plasic sheeting.....I had a huge slug problem....I thought they were just a little untill I went out the other night at mid night ans killed over 200...that's what was killing my plants..I didn't even know...dam...all this time..you live and u learn. The last pic I found while transfering..it grew right out of the bottom of the pot! Wow...

I also picked up a new 4 footed friend for the hopyard...Columbus! He's a american staffordshire terrier...great all around farm dog.

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Old 06-11-2012, 05:55 PM   #26
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Anybody have any safe ideas to get rid of slugs and catopillers?

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Old 06-11-2012, 09:57 PM   #27
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Anybody have any safe ideas to get rid of slugs and catopillers?
Shallow plates of BMC seems to be a pretty unanimous decision around here for slugs. As for the caterpillars that is not quite as cut and dry. I'm still in my first crop but a soap solution seems the best to me, I'm still trying to figure out what is eating mine before spraying it.
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Old 06-11-2012, 11:26 PM   #28
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Diatomaceous Earth works well for slugs and is edible by animals and humans. I heard the other week on a gardening show that BEER works great on slugs too! They love the stuff, but it kills 'em. I would use the DE though and drink the beer while spreading it

Caterpillars is a whole nuther thing. Bacillus Thuringiensis, Kurstaki or BTK is supposed to be great for Caterpillars. Or you can pick them off and use them for fishing

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Old 06-12-2012, 12:08 AM   #29
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Diatomaceous Earth works well for slugs and is edible by animals and humans.
+1 I've heard "Dont get the pool chemical version though". Tractor supply sells it as a feed supliment in 20# sacks.
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Old 06-19-2012, 02:12 AM   #30
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sluggo is completely safe and works well, too. (i use it in my garden, and i've eaten it to prove it's safety)

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