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Old 09-08-2011, 11:10 PM   #51
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No, I would stick with the bottle method if it is working for you. I"ve got to do 15m starts over the next two weeks and I can't find that many empty bottles. I don't prop in soil because is isn't sterile - I use a special rooting plug system with peroxide/ peracetic acid. They resemble little sponges made of peat fiber. They don't fall apart in handling/ shipping so they transplant very well. My gallery has a couple pics. You can take cuttings pretty much any time as long as it is not floral initiated. I mess up the initation process by lighting them a couple hours at mid night so they think they are in short days.

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Old 09-17-2011, 07:33 PM   #52
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Well, the bottle method is not working very well. After >10 days very few of the cutting show any roots, and several have died. I've topped up the bottles every 2-3 days. Only one got dry. They are under fluorescent grow lights, just a few inches away. I'm wondering if I should bake some soil or some peat to (more or less) sterilize it, and put these or fresh cuttings in cups of that. Perhaps with a fresh dip in rooting hormone? Opinions?

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Old 09-18-2011, 04:41 PM   #53
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3D,
Try lowering the water level to about half full and only stick about 1" of the cutting into the water. Back off the lights to 12 " away. Lay a cheap thermostat on the shelf and do not exceed 85 deg. (Raise the lights more if you have to) Make the cutting 6-10 " long with two to 3 nodes max with no growing tip. Pick your cuttings from a part of the plant that is not bearing cones (a newer side shoot). The cutting should be greenwood stems with leaves that appear to be almost fully expanded. (Cuttings with brown stems typically take longer to root because the root primordia have a hard time penetrating the thicker stem walls). Also, you can precondition your cuttings by pinching off the growing tip about a week before you take the cutting - wait until you can see little buds forming where the leaves meet the stems. Propagation is an art, just like brewing a great beer; once you know the nuances it is a piece of cake!

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Old 02-28-2012, 08:42 PM   #54
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Default propagating green cuttings

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....... I spray weekly with peroxide to control disease. 99% root within 2 weeks.
Can you share what the dilution rate of the peroxide is ?
assuming you are diluting it with water ?
is this regular hydrogen peroxide like I get at the local drug store ?

many thanks !!
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Old 02-28-2012, 09:57 PM   #55
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The peroxide / peracetic acid mix we use is a commercial product that is very strong and we dilute it down to 1:100 -500 or less. I would guess diluting household peroxide by 10X would be close. Try it on a couple of leaves first before you spray the whole plant.
A tip for rooting without growth hormone - put a little sugar cane molasses in the water source. It is high in plant sugars, nutrients, chelates , and has a low level of Giberellic acid (a plant hormone) that induces rooting. Cheap but effective!

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Old 02-29-2012, 03:58 AM   #56
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.... put a little sugar cane molasses in the water source. It is high in plant sugars, nutrients, chelates , and has a low level of Giberellic acid (a plant hormone) that induces rooting. Cheap but effective!
The peroxide is intriguing, after searching a bit I ran onto a table of suggested peroxide/water ratios==> http://www.using-hydrogen-peroxide.c...-peroxide.html. 4oz peroxide per gallon for 3% peroxide this article says. So a ratio of 1:32. If you are using 35% acid (just guessing), or about 12X stronger, then a 1:370 concentration of 35% peroxide would approximate a 1:32 concentration of 3% peroxide.

I have used molasses, it is definitely a wonder drug for most any plant. I suppose a single mix of water/peroxide/molasses could be used for watering my green cuttings or as a foliar spray.
Appreciate the advice..
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Old 03-06-2012, 02:54 PM   #57
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.....Cut the bine into single node cuttings (cut stem 1" above and below leaf set) and stick into propagating media up to leaf node. This node is the beginnings of the new crown.......
Do you strip the leaves from this remaining leaf set, or do you let them poke out of the propagating media ??
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Old 03-07-2012, 11:35 AM   #58
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Do you strip the leaves from this remaining leaf set, or do you let them poke out of the propagating media ??
Leave the hop leaves on - sticking the cutting into the media until the node touches the media surface. The more leaf area you have on the cutting; the better your humidity and mist control has to be.
You also can make multiple node/leaf cuttings - by sticking the second node into the media but usually the internode length is too far apart. The the buried node will send out "mini rhizome" shoots that will emerge; but this takes about a month longer than just top cuttings.
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Old 03-07-2012, 05:13 PM   #59
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Leave the hop leaves on - sticking the cutting into the media until the node touches the media surface. The more leaf area you have on the cutting; the better your humidity and mist control has to be.
You also can make multiple node/leaf cuttings - by sticking the second node into the media but usually the internode length is too far apart. The the buried node will send out "mini rhizome" shoots that will emerge; but this takes about a month longer than just top cuttings.
Thanks for sharing your experience, I appreciate it. !
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Old 04-05-2012, 05:32 PM   #60
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Leave the hop leaves on - sticking the cutting into the media until the node touches the media surface. The more leaf area you have on the cutting; the better your humidity and mist control has to be. ......
Excellent technique, you are obviously a master of the art. I've tried several varieties of hops using your process, they all look like the picture below after a week; the little buds have emerged to start forming bines. I used a soil block mix with a lot of sand and peat which is holding together well. I don't have bench misting, so a bit of water is poured at the stem once a day; seems to work. Apparently these are tough little cowgirls that just want to ride on. THANKS AGAIN !!

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