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Old 07-28-2012, 03:05 PM   #21
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Great info..Thanks coming from a first year grower.

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Old 01-08-2013, 07:11 PM   #22
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any pics of your trellis's?

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Old 01-08-2013, 09:15 PM   #23
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I will update pics when I get to PC

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Old 01-09-2013, 04:04 PM   #24
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I'm not a hop grower but have been working in the Ag chemical business for 7yrs. I have a few suggestions and please correct me if this isn't viable for growing hops.
Do you use a pre-emerge for weed prevention? It might not be the best option for the first year as 90% of all pre-emerge is a root pruning herbicide but on plants with established root systems I think this would eliminate the need for weeding and post emergent herbicides like post or roundup.
Also I've noticed people talking about the plants need for high levels of nitrogen and it seems a lot of people are using miracle grow(foliar fed fertilizer). My suggestion would be to use this in addition to a top dressed or soil incorporated polymer coated (slow release) fertilizer. Miracle Grow is only absorbed through the plants leaves and does little to replenish the nutrients back into the soil. A quick way to put this into perspective is by looking at the fertilizer analysis. An all purpose fert is usually a 3-1-2, ex. 24-8-16(divide each number by the smallest number. That gives you 3-1-2). What that number means is there is 24 lbs of nitrogen per 100 lbs of that specific blend. Divide that by your container size and that's how much you have per bag. Then divide that by how much you use per feeding. You quickly realize you aren't adding much back to the soil with foliar fed fert. Don't get me wrong foliar fed fert is awesome but unless you plan on applying it every 7-10 days your best bet would be to use it along side a granular slow release fert. Again, I'm not a hop grower (I do plan on starting a few plants this spring) but this is the method most utilized in the commercial market.

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Old 01-09-2013, 07:21 PM   #25
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Daniel1980...I'm not the horitculturalist in our hop growing operation but I can regurgitate some of the stuff they say.

First, no round-up. I've seen fields killed by overspray from a nearby corn field.

Second, we have about a 6 week window to get the nutrients into the hops. They have to be done by Summer solstice. Anything after that results in excessive vegetative growth and what are sometimes refereed to as "angle wings", basically leaves growing out of a cone or even a new side arm. We saw this effect this year since some put down granulated fertilizer that wasn't properly absorbed due to the drought.

There are some pre-emergants that you can use, but not until the crown is fairly established...2nd year at least.

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Old 01-10-2013, 12:47 AM   #26
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So maybe switch to a fertilizer higher in phosphorus and lower in nitrogen in the flowering stage? Phosphorus is better for flowering vs nitrogen or do you pull away from fertilizing at all during flowering? What's been working for you guys?
I know what works for some plants doesn't work for others.

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Old 01-10-2013, 12:50 AM   #27
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Old 01-10-2013, 03:36 AM   #28
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Like I said, not the horticultrulist...just regurgitating. Let me get back to you in a bit.

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Old 01-16-2013, 06:26 AM   #29
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This is good info. I qm looking wt planting hops this spring in Eastern Nebraska. I have an acreage. First some for myself and friends. How many plants if microbrewery is interested in buying locally?

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Old 01-16-2013, 02:12 PM   #30
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Dave, there's a whole lot of answer to that little question.

Quick answer, figure 1 lb of hops/bbl and a single plant at full maturity should yield 1 to 2 lbs of dried hops, depending on variety. An acre can hold 900 to 1200 plants, typically. So you can do the math from there based on how much production your local micro is brewing.

The reality is that they rarely sole source hop or malt purchase and quality of the product is usually a higher concern. Some will demand pellets instead of whole cone. Many will want testing performed to give them the alphas, etc.

Then there's the simple question of what variety can you grow vs. what they want to buy.

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