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Old 08-06-2009, 07:34 PM   #21
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Right, but I think the basic concept is the same. Sorry if you already knew about the 20 concept, a bunch of people don't so I figured I would post it.

I am eagerly awaiting a detailed description too!!

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Old 08-06-2009, 08:25 PM   #22
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Coderage came up with this image:
Ok, that makes sense. It's different than what archive.org has of Lonnie's original page, which had the MLT direct fired. I didn't understand how jkarp managed to do that with a cooler and electricity.

So I guess he's not doing a temperature controlled mash, right?
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Old 08-06-2009, 08:53 PM   #23
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I don't have the purty graphics, but the system isn't too difficult to describe. Plumbing stays static as pictured up until the chill. Kettle-out to CFC-in, CFC-out to top of MLT, MLT-out to top of kettle.

1. Fill kettle and set PID to strike temp + 2 deg (accounts for CFC loss).
2. Begin full system recirc as strike temp approaches to pre-heat MLT.
3. Once strike temp reached, close MLT-out and fill to desired mash infusion volume.
4. Pump off, dough in.
5. Fill kettle with water to meet desired pre-boil volume, taking into account MLT volume, of course. Set PID to 170.
6. At mash end, begin recirculation by starting flow from MLT-out. Regulate CFC-out to reach equilibrium with MLT outflow. This normally takes a couple minutes of fiddling and a re-check every 10 or so minutes during the recirc. I've got a sight glass on the kettle to monitor this.
7. I recirculate for 30 minutes or until the full system recovers to 170, whichever takes longer.
8. Pump off, all valves wide open to allow wort to fall back to kettle.
9. PID kicked to manual mode, 100% for boil.
10. MLT gets disassembled and cleaned, coolant lines get hooked up to sink.
11. At boil end, Kettle element gets shut off, kettle lid goes back on, and CFC-out is plumbed to kettle top.
12. Pump on, coolant water on 10 min later after CFC is heat-sterilized.
13. After wort is chilled, I shut off the pump and momentarily raise the CFC bucket above kettle level to allow wort to flow back to kettle. Close kettle-out valve and it's now ready to dump to fermenter.
14. All clean-up from here. I rinse out the kettle and restore to a chill config so I can recirculate hot oxy solution through the kettle and CFC for 10 minutes. Dump and repeat with rinse water and I'm done.

Hopefully that helps you guys make sense of this contraption. I've done 20 or so brews through this rig this year and have been extremely happy with it.

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Old 08-06-2009, 11:47 PM   #24
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I don't have the purty graphics, but the system isn't too difficult to describe. Plumbing stays static as pictured up until the chill. Kettle-out to CFC-in, CFC-out to top of MLT, MLT-out to top of kettle.
Thanks! I didn't realize that you were using the cfc for both a hot and cold heat exchanger. Very cool.
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Old 08-06-2009, 11:58 PM   #25
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Looking good man!

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Originally Posted by Boerderij_Kabouter View Post
Right, but I think the basic concept is the same. Sorry if you already knew about the 20 concept, a bunch of people don't so I figured I would post it.

I am eagerly awaiting a detailed description too!!
That was in my Brutus 20e thread but I cant take credit for the picture. I went the RIMS route instead. Which still isn't done.....
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Old 08-07-2009, 01:02 AM   #26
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Thanks! I didn't realize that you were using the cfc for both a hot and cold heat exchanger. Very cool.
I don't think he is. I think he's just got an element in the HLT/BK. In that he heats his strike water first, sparge water 2nd, and continues to heat during mashout/MLT drain, up to and throughout the boil. The CFC just stays hooked up because of his integration w/ the pump. It doesn't really serve any purpose until it's time to chill, at which time he hooks up the cold water.
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Old 08-07-2009, 01:32 AM   #27
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Please do a writeup on this. Your system is really sweet.

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Old 08-07-2009, 02:17 AM   #28
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I don't think he is. I think he's just got an element in the HLT/BK. In that he heats his strike water first, sparge water 2nd, and continues to heat during mashout/MLT drain, up to and throughout the boil. The CFC just stays hooked up because of his integration w/ the pump. It doesn't really serve any purpose until it's time to chill, at which time he hooks up the cold water.
Exactly right. The logic behind this was twofold - one, integrating the pump with the CFC saves a lot of space, plus gives me an elevated platform so I can rely on gravity for the return to the kettle, unlike the original Brutus 20 that required a 2nd pump. Two, being indoors, I wanted to keep plumbing changes to an absolute minimum as hoses, even with quick-disconnects, inevitably drip. This setup only requires one hose change - moving the CFC-out to the kettle top for chilling recirc.
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Old 08-07-2009, 12:24 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lil' Sparky View Post
I don't think he is. I think he's just got an element in the HLT/BK. In that he heats his strike water first, sparge water 2nd, and continues to heat during mashout/MLT drain, up to and throughout the boil. The CFC just stays hooked up because of his integration w/ the pump. It doesn't really serve any purpose until it's time to chill, at which time he hooks up the cold water.
I'm not sure where I got that idea from. It would probably work, but you'd need two pumps to make it work.
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Old 08-08-2009, 04:33 AM   #30
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With a 120V 2000W heating element, how long does it take to come up to a boil? What is your usual pre-boil volume, 5 gallons?

Awesome system..... you have my wheels spinning.

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