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mattd2 · 08-05-2011, 05:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dubuddaman

...Also I do understand why you want to measure from the middle of the keg?? Where is the beer being sucked from?? Not the middle. It is being sucked from the bottom. Micro Matic is the only maker of these stems and valves, and you want to measure from the bottom of the keg to the faucet.

They take from the middle of the keg because the liquid will add some hydrostatic pressure to the keg since it is drawn from the bottom. The reason to take the middle is because for half of the keg the assumption will be a bit low and the for the other half a bit high, but all in all it will work out not to bad.

**Bitty** · 01-12-2012, 02:43 PM

Sorry to dig up an old thread, but this is exactly the kind of tool I've been looking for.

The following password can be used to unprotect the sheet. It's not the original, but it works:

AAAABAABBAAO

Maybe someone more knowledgeable than I could take a look and update it using the latest commonly accepted formulas...?

cmmcp2 · 01-28-2012, 12:30 AM

thanks for taking the time (and some abuse) to post this

Snood · 08-27-2012, 08:42 AM

This is great but it does not provide an option for the line diameter I'm using. I'm working on updating this spreadsheet for my needs. I am willing to make other changes which people might be interested in. I am first working on the metric version but if there's the demand I can make the changes to the imperial version too.

**HopSong** · 08-28-2012, 04:37 PM

I click on the link and it says server not found???

Snood · 08-29-2012, 02:02 PM

He reposted the link on page 2 here.

I'm struggling a little with the line resistance figures used in the calculations. for example, for 3/16 line (4.8mm) it's 0.1518 .. does anyone know what this means? what's the units?

**jtkratzer** · 01-05-2013, 07:08 PM

Trying to use this calculator...I have 3 faucets and 50' of Bev-Seal 3/16" ID, 4.25" shanks with 3/16" ID. I don't want to change line length for each style of beer. I guess I could get some extra connectors for grossly different pressures, like low carbed ales vs hefe's. Right now, I'd like to keep it simple. Most of my beers are going to be in a similar carb range - blondes, IPAs, alts, etc.

I suppose having different line lengths appropriate for the different styles would be cheaper than using regulator manifolds.

**jtkratzer** · 01-05-2013, 07:32 PM

I think the 3 way manifold where I can control the pressure on each keg is going to be easier than changing lines all the time. The calculator doesn't go high enough to give an output for hefes and there's roughly a 2.5-3'+ difference between 2.2 and 2.8 volumes across the temperature ranges.

I found a Taprite 3 way for $120 shipped that allows me to go from 0-50 psi for each body.

Redbeard5289 · 01-05-2013, 08:24 PM

repin for myself.

Love the spreadsheet. Looking forward to using it a lot soon.
Redbeard5289

day_trippr · 01-06-2013, 01:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jtkratzer

I think the 3 way manifold where I can control the pressure on each keg is going to be easier than changing lines all the time.[...]

If you actually want to carb different brews to style and have them on tap simultaneously and maintain those carb levels, then a multi-pressure regulator setup is pretty much mandatory.

But that isn't going to solve a foam problem. If you want to keep your wheaties at 3.5+ volumes, you're going to need beer line that can handle it - and it's going to be longer than what you'd need for a typical 2.5 volume ale.

So you can worst-case it and put like 15 footers on all taps. Seems like overkill when there's an alternative: go with ten footers all around - which will work great for ~2.5 volumes and below - and then stick an epoxy mixer or two down the keg out tube on your more effervescent wheat beers...

Cheers!