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Old 04-12-2013, 12:10 PM   #251
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kingmatt

Do you not have the equipment (mash tun, kettle capable of a full boil) for all grain yet? What you are suggesting is the basic concept of all grain brewing but if you want your beer to turn out well you need to be much more precise with your water amounts and temperature.
My equipment: 2 plastic buckets. 1 primary fermentor and a bottling bucket. 1 glass carboy for secondary fermentation, 2 smaller buckets to strain grains after steeping and a 10 gallon (I believe) brewing kettle. Ill have to crack the grains myself and I don't have the correct tool for that. I was told I can use a bottle or rolling pin. I would get the other 2 smaller buckets for the straining process after I steep (155 degrees) the grains in 3 gallons of water for an hour. After the steep put the grain in the top bucket suspended from the bottom and pour the remaining 4 gallons over it. After boiling and fermentation I should have 5.5 gallonsish.
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Old 04-12-2013, 12:53 PM   #252
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Quote:
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My equipment: 2 plastic buckets. 1 primary fermentor and a bottling bucket. 1 glass carboy for secondary fermentation, 2 smaller buckets to strain grains after steeping and a 10 gallon (I believe) brewing kettle. Ill have to crack the grains myself and I don't have the correct tool for that. I was told I can use a bottle or rolling pin. I would get the other 2 smaller buckets for the straining process after I steep (155 degrees) the grains in 3 gallons of water for an hour. After the steep put the grain in the top bucket suspended from the bottom and pour the remaining 4 gallons over it. After boiling and fermentation I should have 5.5 gallonsish.
If you have a 10 gallon pot it would be much easier (and better for your beer) to go the BIAB (brew in a bag) method, IMO. Read this thread:

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f36/biab-brewing-pics-233289/

I would also take your grain back to your LHBS and ask them to mill it for you (they should do it for free) because trying to crush 9# of grain with a rolling pin will be a nightmare and won't give you nearly the efficiency you are looking for.

Good Luck!
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Old 04-13-2013, 08:09 PM   #253
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Just tasted my batch after 5 days in the primary and I am REALLY looking forward to this beer!

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Old 04-14-2013, 03:47 AM   #254
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Just tasted my batch after 5 days in the primary and I am REALLY looking forward to this beer!
You haven't added any watermelon yet right?
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Old 04-14-2013, 01:44 PM   #255
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Nope, I have one ready to be juiced in a few days and some lorann watermelon flavoring on the way. The base beer was excellent though.

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Old 04-14-2013, 05:19 PM   #256
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Nope, I have one ready to be juiced in a few days and some lorann watermelon flavoring on the way. The base beer was excellent though.
How much of the extract flavoring are you using? I have a bottle and I'm unsure.
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Old 04-14-2013, 05:35 PM   #257
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Probably 1 dram of the Lorann watermelon flavor. It's supposed to be 3-4 times stronger than other watermelon extracts and it's water soluble. Ordered it on Amazon for under $4 with shipping. Going with 6 cups of juice so I may not even use the whole thing though.

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Old 04-15-2013, 04:30 PM   #258
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I ****ing love learning new **** everyday.

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Old 04-15-2013, 04:35 PM   #259
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Transferred to secondary today. It looked and smelled GREAT! Now I am just trying to get the bits of melon out of my paint strainer....

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Old 04-15-2013, 04:38 PM   #260
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This recipe/idea is very similar to Pyramid Brewing's Apricot Ale.

50/50 2-row Pale & White Malted Wheat (possibly with some acidulated malt & carapils)
11 IBUs
Roughly 5% abv
Fruit-flavored
Guessing they use Wyeast 1010 American Wheat Ale Yeast

http://www.pyramidbrew.com/our-brews/apricot

Pyramid probably uses fresh apricots, apricot puree, & apricot extract. With Watermelon juice though, you're getting more oxidation than usual, which causes browning. To preserve the red color, try adding a bit of raspberry or prickly pear puree/juice with the watermelon. They are not as easily oxidized and natural compliments to watermelon.

Instead of adding quarts of weak juice, I would look into how to make a concentrate so I could add about a cup of highly potent juice for intense color and robust flavor. The trick there is getting much of the water to evaporate, or be excluded, without boiling the liquid or leaving it out for days. Freezing the watermelon first could work. They do something similar with grapes to make sweet Ice Wine. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ice_wine

Another important tip is to use a juicer (not a blender) that is a low RPM masticating type, which doesn't whip air into the juice. You want it to press the pulp to extract the juice, taking care not to oxidize it like a high RPM centrifugal juicer would. Masticating juicers are also more efficient and extract more juice. If you must use a blender, pulse in batches on low speed and then quickly liquify. Strain through two layers of sieves (course mesh on top, fine mesh on bottom).

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