Recipe Type: All Grain Yeast: WY1388 Yeast Starter: 1 gallon (see notes) Batch Size (Gallons): 5.25 Original Gravity: 1.090 Final Gravity: 1.014 IBU: 34 Boiling Time (Minutes): 90 Color: Golden Primary Fermentation (# of Days & Temp): 28 @70*F Secondary Fermentation (# of Days & Temp): 14 @70*F Tasting Notes: Slightly nuttier, darker, and stronger than Duvel GSA
Third place in 2009 HBT homebrew competition
Grain Bill (for 75% brewhouse efficiency):
12# Belgian Pils
2# Munich
2# Turbinado sugar
Hops:
11AAU Mt Hood 60
.5oz Saaz 15
.5oz Saaz 5
Mash:
I used 100% RO water with 1tsp of gypsum and 1/2tsp Calcium Chloride for mineral hardness. I did a double infusion. First infusion was to 131*F for 30 minutes. I then stepped to 149*F for 75 minutes. After 60 minutes at 149*F I pulled a quarter of the mash for a mashout decoction. I fly sparged slowly to maximize the amount of fermentables extracted.
Notes:
I stepped the starter from 2L to a gallon with additional wort and oxygen. After decanting I ended up pitching what was at least a cup of pure yeast slurry. Primary fermentation was slow. Swirling the fermenter gently every few days after activity slows helps, this yeast seems to flocc out prematurely. After racking to the secondary I added one ounce of medium toast French oak cubes. The oak is barely noticeable in the finished product, but I like it in there to smooth things out. It was bottle conditioned to 3 volumes of CO2, and allowed to condition two months before drinking. I think it will peak in 2-3 more months. I may rebrew a smaller version of this beer without the oak next time, but this recipe is definitely a keeper.
I have been looking at brewing a belgian with some chimay yeast i harvested. I have been trying to find a way to modify my water profile so that I could brew one, but it seems that RO or distilled is the way to go in our area. Have you tried a belgian with your normal water?? or do you think RO with mineral additions is the best way??
I don't know what your water profile is like out there, it varies alot in this area. Here in Pville our lake water is 140ppm total hardness, in Austin it's around 40ppm. For this style I think anything under 100ppm will work, though Stone says in their notes for the Vertical Epic 8-8-8 they use 100ppm hard water which is pre-boiled with calcium chloride and then cooled to mash temp. That process drops a lot of the bicarbonates out.
Interesting...I have pretty low ~55ppm water with mostly calcium, but have been interested in using some RODI water. Did you feel the mineral content was good for this style?
As far as I can tell, the water was perfect, I aim for 50-100ppm hardness for all my light brews and the results have been much better than before I started controlling my water.
Am I missing it or is there no amount listed for the 11% AA Mt Hood 60 minute addition?
__________________ Early brewers were primarily women, mostly because it was deemed a woman's job. Mesopotamian men, of some 3,800 years ago, were obviously complete assclowns and had yet to realize the pleasure of brewing beer.- Beer Advocate
When I rebrew this I'm going to add some Brett Bruxellensis to the secondary, and I may try using the WY3787 Trappist High Gravity just to see the difference. The brett will add a little bit of unique aged character and dry the beer out more. Otherwise I simply love this stuff, it's like a little bit of heaven in every bottle and keeps getting better with age.
All-Grain - Triple Six Tripel
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