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Old 04-11-2012, 02:42 PM   #81
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I agree WLP400. I also seem to favor using all sweet orange peel rather then the sweet/ bitter orange peel.

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Old 04-11-2012, 05:58 PM   #82
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Originally Posted by h22lude

Great thanks. I will give 400 a try.

Did you ferment this in the higher 60s to get rid if the sulfur smell (that I've read about) or did you ferment in the low 60s and kept it in primary a little longer?
According to White Labs, WLP400 functions best from 67-74.

I keep the temp definitely below 70 during the ramp up and rapid growth phase over the first 2-3 days. 67 works great and I target that. You might not have precise fermentation temperature control. If you don't, your biggest goal is to stay below 70 during the first phase.

After the aggressive phase slows, I let the temp run as high as it wants to, typically into the mid-70's and it's even hit 80 in the summer. This is often coincident with rousing the yeast. This temp run is to encourage full attenuation.

By using a starter and employing this fermentation strategy, I've always achieved attenuation at the high end of the range (range is 74-78, and I get 77-79%).

Finally, I only primary. I leave this beer in the carboy for typically 3 weeks and no less than 2 to ensure full attenuation and good flavor. After kegging and carbing it is ready to drink immediately.

Hope this helps.

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Old 04-11-2012, 09:41 PM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kcpup View Post
According to White Labs, WLP400 functions best from 67-74.

I keep the temp definitely below 70 during the ramp up and rapid growth phase over the first 2-3 days. 67 works great and I target that. You might not have precise fermentation temperature control. If you don't, your biggest goal is to stay below 70 during the first phase.

After the aggressive phase slows, I let the temp run as high as it wants to, typically into the mid-70's and it's even hit 80 in the summer. This is often coincident with rousing the yeast. This temp run is to encourage full attenuation.

By using a starter and employing this fermentation strategy, I've always achieved attenuation at the high end of the range (range is 74-78, and I get 77-79%).

Finally, I only primary. I leave this beer in the carboy for typically 3 weeks and no less than 2 to ensure full attenuation and good flavor. After kegging and carbing it is ready to drink immediately.

Hope this helps.

Cheers
Awesome, thank you. I typically keep my buckets in my basement which keeps the beer between 62 and 65 during the first aggressive fermentation stage. I don't yet have anything to keep my temp controlled but for now my basement will do.

I typically keep my ales in primary for 2 to 3 weeks. From reading, this yeast seems to take a little longer so I will probably keep it 3 weeks.
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Old 04-12-2012, 02:08 PM   #84
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I'm brewing this weekend but can't get over the 30 min boil.

How does this not turn the beer into a DMS mess?

I'm contemplating being Dave and boiling 60 or 90min.

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Old 04-13-2012, 02:43 AM   #85
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I'm brewing this weekend but can't get over the 30 min boil.

How does this not turn the beer into a DMS mess?

I'm contemplating being Dave and boiling 60 or 90min.
There are other ways to remove DMS other than boiling for 60 to 90 minutes. A very vigorous boil (of any length), quick cooling and vigorous fermentation all remove DMS at varying degrees.

AHS is a well known homebrew store. This kit has been selling for many years with all great reviews. Forrest has even posted in this thread that the 30 minutes is done on purpose.

You never know, maybe the secret ingredient in this successful recipe is the corn flavor from a little DMS
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Old 04-13-2012, 04:29 PM   #86
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Thanks for the reply. I'll do a 30 I've read through all posts but didn't see much detail on this.

I think I'll just boil a little more vigorously.

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Old 05-03-2012, 02:39 PM   #87
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I'm about to brew this in 30 minutes. I put the recipe in Beer Smith and it says my OG is 1.054 but the AHS instructions says 1.048. Why the 6 GU difference? Should I follow Beer Smith or the instructions?

We are also brewing the AHS Blue Moon clone and Beer Smith hit the OG exactly with the AHS instructions.

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Old 05-04-2012, 02:48 PM   #88
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My boil was almost 90 minutes because I had too much wort and wanted to boil it off and the beer tastes great, the only thing I would change is I will add 20-40% more orange peel next time. That is not to say that a 30 minute boil would be bad I am just saying the beer will taste good with a 90 minute boil too.

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Old 05-05-2012, 12:29 PM   #89
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I boiled mine for probably 45 minutes.

I actually went with WLP380 Hefe IV. My LHBS owner said he has brewed many Belgian Whites with a range of different White Labs yeasts and he said this one comes out very close to Allagash White with the clove and phenol aroma. Not really banana which is good.

I made a starter and fermentation took off immediately at 64 - 65. I'm trying to keep it a little under the 66 - 70 range they recommend so ester production isn't as high.

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Old 05-06-2012, 01:32 PM   #90
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Here's Mine

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