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Old 04-10-2009, 03:10 PM   #61
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Originally Posted by Cpt_Kirks View Post
The only issue I have with this recipe is that it should only be made in 10 gallon batches.

I went to shake my keg to stir up the yeast, and the damn thing is almost empty ALREADY!
You said it!!!
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Old 04-13-2009, 01:22 AM   #62
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I usually use 1/2 oz of 6% (only 3AAs) for a batch of HW when using 6 lbs of DME.

Lots of people say they prefer a young HW, but I secondary all of mine to reduce the amount of yeast going into the bottle/keg. Even an overnight secondary will get good results...3 days better.

After that you can keg. With kegging you can actually drink this beer in as little as 2 weeks. IMO that's too early because the more yeast you have in suspension the gassier you'll get. I prefer 3-4 weeks, 5-6 weeks if bottle conditioning.
Thanks. I will do the same.
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Old 04-18-2009, 08:18 PM   #63
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Hey y'all -

I brewed this up on 4/4/09 and had an OG of 1.050. I took a gravity reading today (4/18/09) and got 1.016. Should I wait to keg? I have the carboy sitting in a tub of water so I can control the temperature...should I warm it up a bit?

Thanks for your help.

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Old 05-06-2009, 10:54 PM   #64
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I LOVE Hefeweizen and saw this recipe so gave it a try. This is my second time home brewing, my first batch is John Palmer's Cincinnati Pale Ale recipe from his How to Brew beginners page. It's bottle condition right now.

Here's my brew log. Sorry for the long post, I am an English teacher so I am a little wordy.

____

3:30pm Sun May 3

Paulaner style Hefe Weizen

OG 1.050

Pitching temp: 66 degrees F

Capped with a carboy cap and blow off tube and put in closet, steady temp between 65-69 degrees.

Noteworthy Moments:

I bought 6 gallons of spring water. I didn't pre-boil since I was lazy and didn't want to wait for the cool down so I dumped them right into the sanitized carboy. (Any experience with problems with this step??) I sloshed and aerated the carboy while the wort boiled. I examined the water at one point and to my dismay I saw a teeny tiny arm hair floating in the water. AGH! Thinking quick, I put the screen on my funnel, sanitized, and dumped water from the carboy back into one of the water jugs. The hair appeared on the screen by the first gallon.

Then I had a boil over after I added the remaining 5 lbs. of DME. What a pain! I only have a 1.5 gallon brew pot, and I thought I'd be ok with this recipe considering... but man, once that last DME is added at 15 mins left, the foam is ridiculous even with a good 4-5 inches of space between the water and the top of the brew pot. Any advice on this step?

Finally, I had a thermometer problem. While cooling the wort in an ice water and salt bath, I used my trusty digital probe thermometer to monitor the cool. I was worried right off the bat. It read 200 degrees for the first 2-3 minutes of the cool and didn't drop much during the next 5 minutes. It finally leveled off at around 150 degrees. Something seemed wrong. 25 mins had gone by! I sent my wife to the store to get another bag of ice. While she was gone I pulled the probe and it still read 150! D'oh! Broken thermometer! The side of the brew pot was cool. I added it to the carboy and the strip thermometer held a steady 66 degrees.

Lag time:
When I got home from work at around 3:30pm on Monday, there were small round specks of bright white forming on top of the wort. On my first brew, this long after pitching the fermentation had already started. Due to the lack of any noticeable fermentation I feared the worst. I initially thought this was an infection, that the bubbles were balls of fuzz, but no =) I took a closer look and saw that they were tight clumps of small bubbles. These rapidly covered the surface within 8 hours. Before I went to bed I swapped the cap for a 3 piece airlock since it seemed like such a slow fermentation.

Wrong. VIGOROUS fermentation started earnestly over night. I woke up at 4:00am on Tuesday morning and went and checked on it. The airlock had filled with krausen. I had the cap and blow off tube soaking in the one-step solution in the closet and swapped them. The airlock had clogged and some pressure had built up rather significantly, splattering a bit of gunk on the wall.

Wednesday morning the kreusen receded and I put the airlock back on. As of 7:00pm Wednesday it's still at it, a good roiling fermentation that is really fun to watch.

Considering the snags I had during the brew process (non-boiled spring water, the arm hair, lots of panicky time in the chiller bath and I am thinking a few drops of water from my hand might have made it into the work) I am hoping for the best!

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Old 05-11-2009, 08:07 PM   #65
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This was the second beer I ever brewed. Very good extract recipe; it scored 2nd place at local contest here in Portland. I kept in primary for a month...I used 3068 (I still do not know how to find the blend) fermented at 68-70. It took about another month or so in the bottle before it peeked. I only have two left which is sad...it is definitely a crowd pleaser.

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Old 05-22-2009, 11:19 AM   #66
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Would Danstar Munich Wheat Beer yeast be an appropriate substitute in this recipe ? Having difficulty finding the 3068 yeast.

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Old 05-22-2009, 03:33 PM   #67
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Would Danstar Munich Wheat Beer yeast be an appropriate substitute in this recipe ? Having difficulty finding the 3068 yeast.
Munich is kind of a milder yeast. It does produce nice esters, but not like the smack packs. I am going to brew an American Wheat with it Monday.
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Old 05-23-2009, 12:49 PM   #68
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Munich is kind of a milder yeast. It does produce nice esters, but not like the smack packs. I am going to brew an American Wheat with it Monday.

My supplier is suggesting the following alternative yeasts to 3068

1) Wyeast 1010 American Wheat

or

2) Safbrew WB - 06

Any thoughts on these ?

Also does it make any difference if I use light DME instead of extra light DME ?

Thanks
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Old 05-25-2009, 01:58 AM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diablo View Post
My supplier is suggesting the following alternative yeasts to 3068

1) Wyeast 1010 American Wheat

or

2) Safbrew WB - 06

Any thoughts on these ?

Also does it make any difference if I use light DME instead of extra light DME ?

Thanks
I think the consensus is that you will be disappointed with the WB-06. I have used it with good results in a Weissenbock, but don't think I would use it in a Hefe. I've never used 1010.

It will probably be hard to tell the difference between using extra light and light DME in this recipe. There is not a major difference between the two. If you were making a super light style you might could tell.
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Old 05-25-2009, 02:22 AM   #70
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Homebrewer 99,

Your notes said it was not as sweet as a Roth HW from Schweinfurt. You didn't mean a Rother Brau Hefeweizen, did you?

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