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Old 02-06-2012, 02:54 AM   #51
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That sounds like a great temperature.
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Old 02-06-2012, 05:37 AM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thx997303 View Post
Well, I'm going to brew this as an extract and partial boil.

figure to do .5 oz corriander and 1 oz bitter orange as the other guy did.

I wonder though, is a 2 gallon boil going to be sufficient? That's the biggest pot I have and I worry about it boiling over as it is.
Bottled this last week and it has a great taste to it at bottling. Either need to add a slice of orange to it or next time add more sweet or bitter orange peel to it. Need to wait till it fully carbs before I make a decision. I will report back in like a week or maybe two.
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Old 02-07-2012, 07:30 AM   #53
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question:

I just moved my honey hefe into a secondary, but it seems like I could've skipped that step and go straight into bottling. Would keeping it in a secondary for a 5-7 days prior to carbing/bottling have any effect on it's overall taste?
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Old 02-14-2012, 08:34 PM   #54
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I would have skipped the secondary on this beer. You want it cloudy and fresh. A short-ish (7-10 day) primary is all it needs, and then keg or bottle it. If you are bottling, you will want to make sure you have a steady hydrometer reading for a couple of days before you bottle, unless you like exploding beer and glass bombs.
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Old 02-15-2012, 07:41 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wittmania View Post
I would have skipped the secondary on this beer. You want it cloudy and fresh. A short-ish (7-10 day) primary is all it needs, and then keg or bottle it. If you are bottling, you will want to make sure you have a steady hydrometer reading for a couple of days before you bottle, unless you like exploding beer and glass bombs.
This all over.
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Old 02-16-2012, 12:56 PM   #56
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Bottling this tonight. The hydrometer reading was 1.005, probably due to me missing my mash temp a couple degrees low. The sample tasted great, by the way.

Any advice on how much priming sugar to use for a 5 gallon batch?

I keg almost exclusively now and even when I bottle I usually force-carb and bottle from the keg. Seems like this is a beer that would benefit from being bottle conditioned and having all of the yeast trapped in "individual servings" rather than having it all settle out.
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Old 02-16-2012, 02:49 PM   #57
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Hmm, well I've done the keg to bottle with this brew and it works just fine and keeps plenty of yeast in suspension.

As for priming sugar I'm not sure at the moment. Just got rid of windows for linux and I'm trying to get beersmith on there. But you'll probably be safe with 4oz if it's a full 5 gallon batch.
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Old 02-16-2012, 06:01 PM   #58
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I'm going to be making this soon. This looks awesome. But this will be my first hefe and I'll be bottling this. How should I avoid too much carbonation (exploding bottles) after primary? There's going to be a lot of yeast floating around.
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Old 02-16-2012, 06:46 PM   #59
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@Paddy: Carbonation depends on the amount of sugar in the beer, not how much yeast is left. You'll have enough yeast in suspension to take care of all of the sugar you prime with. Once they run out of food they'll take a nap.

@Reno: Out of keg space at the moment, so I'm going to bottle condition this brew. These are the problems I have to deal with!
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Old 02-16-2012, 06:52 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paddyb270 View Post
I'm going to be making this soon. This looks awesome. But this will be my first hefe and I'll be bottling this. How should I avoid too much carbonation (exploding bottles) after primary? There's going to be a lot of yeast floating around.
The amount of yeast in your bottles has nothing to do with over-carbonation (under-carb, sure... but that's if you have almost zero viable yeast left.) The yeast will only produce CO2 as long as there is sugar to be eaten. Once the sugar runs out the yeast can't keep producing carbonation because there's nothing left to eat.

Just make sure of three things:

1) That you don't bottle until fermentation is completely done. That means take a gravity reading when you think it's done, then take another one 3 days later. If it's the same, you're good to go.

2) Prime with the proper about of priming solution. If you put too much sugar in the bottle bucket or don't get a proper mixture you will get either over-carbonation or uneven carbonation (i.e. some are over, some are under)

3) Mix your priming solution properly in with your beer in the bottling bucket. So after you boil and cool your priming solution, add it to your bottling bucket. Then rack the beer on top of it, being sure the end of your hose is angled so you get a whirlpooling action. This whirlpool will completely mix your solution homogeneously into the beer.
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Bottled: Light American Lager (5/13/12), Sahti (from keg), English Barleywine (brewed 9/26/09 -- bottled 5/5/10)


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