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BakerBeer · 01-11-2013, 01:49 PM

Also, how much honey did you end up using to prime?

TheJasonT · 01-11-2013, 03:01 PM

It's good. A bit of toasty/roasty flavor because I missed my OG something fierce and boiled for two hours hoping to concentrate the wort. That's prevalent in the aroma, which is similar to Budweiser. The flavor is completely different, with a nice sweetness and hints of orange. I'm definitely going to enjoy this one.

TheJasonT · 01-11-2013, 03:13 PM

I used 5.9oz if I remember correctly. I used Northern Brewers priming sugar calculator.

**Reno_eNVy** · 01-11-2013, 05:21 PM

Looks great, Jason! Thanks for sharing

BakerBeer · 01-11-2013, 05:57 PM

Nice! I was reading some where a good place to start for priming sugar is around 1 ounce per gallon.... Not sure how true that is but it's a starting point I guess.

I am going to my local brew shop on tomorrow to pick up the ingredients to give this one another whirl.

I think I am going to attempt to make false bottom for my brew kettle. My cooler sucks and I lost so much heat durning my mash... I started out around 170 and a hour later I was down to mid to low 140s...

Trial and error I assume....

**Reno_eNVy** · 01-11-2013, 06:51 PM

Started at 170? That's way too high of a mash temperature... or do you mean that was your strike water temperature?

And 5oz of priming sugar might be a little high, especially since if you're making 5 gallons you'll likely only end up with 4.5 - 4.75 gallons of bottleable (new word!) beer. I've found I almost always use roughly 4 +/- 0.25 ounces whenever I bottle (rare now.) The only exceptions are when I need low carb or champagne-like carb.

Tastybrew.com bottle priming calculator has you needing 4.5oz to get 2.5 volumes of CO2 if you're priming at 70*F (which you should be

)

BakerBeer · 01-11-2013, 09:23 PM

Sorry, that's my strike temp.

**Reno_eNVy** · 01-11-2013, 09:26 PM

Ah gotcha. Are you taking a temperature reading after adding the strike water and stirring well? If not you may just be starting in the low-40's but holding temp the whole hour.

Also, you may just be losing temperature to the mash tun itself. A lot of people pre-heat theirs.

woknblues · 01-12-2013, 04:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BakerBeer

Ahh I see... So instead of rapidly cooling the wart he is letting it cool to room temp before "pitching"

I thought I read some where that we cool the wart as fast as possible to prevent any bacterial from getting into the wart before the fermentation process starts.

I made this very receive in November. Being my first all grain it didn't turn out very well. I boiled down to 3.5 gallons from 5. I didn't know we were to start with a per boil volume of 6.5-7gallons. My bad. Lol I learned from my mistake.

I am going to attempt again in a few weeks lol

Thanks for all the help!

The no chill process is a relatively "new" one, but has been successfully accomplished by aussie homebrewers for a long time now, and of course, others here. So, I did pitch and it has been bubbling away vigorously, just now starting to slow down.

Do you have a fairly wide pot and/or arid conditions? I live in New Mexico, and I add about 10% to calculate my boil off (plus a wide pot to boot) over conventional wisdom. I pretty much hit the marks.

TheJasonT · 01-16-2013, 09:20 PM

Anyone have problems with head retention on this? I'm drinking one now that's been conditioning for 8 days and after an initial rush of bubbles when pouring and then it quickly dissolved to a thin line of nothingness. It also is a bit flat on the mouthfeel. Could it be the CO2 needs a bit more time to get into solution?