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Old 12-06-2012, 02:50 PM   #181
Walshy87
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Even though there are no hop additions till 30 min?

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Old 12-06-2012, 03:23 PM   #182
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A longer boil can help eliminate DMS. The half-life for DMS is 40 minutes, so half of the DMS will be boiled off in a 40 minute vigorous boil. So if we do the math, a 60 minute boil gets rid of 64.7% of the DMS and a 90 minute boil rids us of 79% of the DMS. That is why most experienced brewers recommend a 90 minute or longer vigorous boil. Cooling your wort quickly after the boil helps keep more DMS from forming as well - which can't be boiled off obviously. Just tricks of the trade when using lighter, paler malts.

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Old 12-06-2012, 04:21 PM   #183
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That makes sense. My problem is I can only boil 6 gallons at once. So would it be better to lose the extra boil off doing a 90 min boil? or just stick to 60 since it doesn't seem that it will affect anything other than DMS?

Or can I add more wort from mash tun say 30-40 minutes into boil so that I still end up with 5 gallons?

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Old 12-06-2012, 05:05 PM   #184
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when I brewed this the 90 minute boil got me a bit under 5 gallons and my OG was high so I just added water to bring the OG within range. I would test your gravity and make the water adjustment accordingly as opposed to just adding water to make an even 5 gallons. Here's a calculator to help.

http://merrycuss.com/calc/gravityadjustmentwater.html

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Old 12-06-2012, 05:11 PM   #185
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Also I would invest in a bigger pot - like a ten gallon. makes brewing life so much easier. You can get 60 qt stock pots on eBay for around $65 or $70 bucks.

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Old 12-06-2012, 05:45 PM   #186
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Thanks for the info. I have a keg that will soon be a keggle I just don't have time between now and Saturday to do it.

Another quick question... Being that this is my second AG I plan to use bottled spring water do I need to mess with the ph of the mash water?

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Old 12-06-2012, 06:27 PM   #187
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apparently the mash ph should be around 5.1 or 5.2 to get the best conversion of starch to sugar. I haven't ever checked my ph level. probably should. there's a product called 5.2 mash stabilizer that will bring the mash to 5.2 and keep it there. anybody have any experience with the 5.2 stabilizer? cheers.

p.s. as for the ph level of bottle water - here's a list I came across. if yours is one of the higher ph levels then maybe add the 5.2 stabilizer.

http://healthychoices.askahealer.com/2008/02/28/ph-levels-in-bottled-water/

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Old 12-06-2012, 06:32 PM   #188
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I have this feeling though, that since this isn't a super light nor a really dark beer the mash ph level probably won't affect the final product too much. but I could be wrong...

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Old 12-06-2012, 08:34 PM   #189
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Quote:
Originally Posted by parrotpoet
Also I would invest in a bigger pot - like a ten gallon. makes brewing life so much easier. You can get 60 qt stock pots on eBay for around $65 or $70 bucks.
I saw a 10-gallon pot at Food Maxx for $22 about a month ago.
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Old 12-09-2012, 03:28 PM   #190
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Brewed this yesterday and hit all my numbers... Kind of. So I had to use three pots since I don't have a big enough kettle to hold 7 gallons, definitely not brewing again till my keggle is ready.I did the 90 minute boil and ended up with 4.5 gallons, my goal was 5.5 gallons, but the OG was really high I think around 1.085 so I added one gallon and ended up at 1.065. Perfect... I think. Is it bad that I had to top it off although I calculated 5.5g at 1.065?

Also can I dry hop this in secondary?

Thanks for the recipe!

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