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Old 03-11-2013, 09:36 PM   #11
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This years has a ton of Tomahawk in it. The flavor/aroma is unmistakable and very forward. That comes from the dryhop since the dryhop hops tend to dominate the flavor/aroma focus of the hoppy beer.

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Old 03-11-2013, 09:52 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sivdrinks View Post
I dry hopped also but with Nugget, Simcoe and Palisade. Think I got that from BYO maybe? Anyway, I think using all Nugget is a better option. Should give that herbal/peach aroma I get from NN. Give your results if you make it more than once. That's one of my problems, I never make recipies again so I don't know if they ever get better.
Yeah Im thinking maybe 2 oz Nugget 1 oz Tomahawk would be my next guess at a dry hop charge....

And maybe 1 oz Palisades, 1 oz Simcoe, 1 oz Tomahawk, 1 oz Nugget in the hopback.

Yumm
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Old 03-12-2013, 05:59 PM   #13
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Thanks for the link bobbrews. That hopback looks surprising simple to build, maybe I’ll have to try to make one.
More info on hopbacks below... If you brew mostly with pellet hops, I would just stick with a warm whirlpool. Hopbacks seem to be more suited for leaf hops:

The original method for removing trub is a hop back. Historically, when beer was made using whole hops, wort would be discharged into a vessel with a false bottom, not very different from a lauter tun. This system is still prominent in breweries that use whole hops. The hops create a filter bed that removes both hop and proteinaceous trub. After wort flows through the hop back, it is pumped through a heat exchanger and into the fermentor. The hop back must not allow any leaves or flowers to pass through, because such materials can clog a plate heat exchanger. To avoid this, brewers often set a bed of fresh hops on the false bottom before letting the wort flow in. This practice also brings greater hop aroma into the finished beer. Despite the splashing, the wort's uptake of oxygen during this step is less than one might expect because the steam generated during runoff forms a protective barrier between the wort and outside air.

Hop backs, traditional tools for trub removal, incorporate a false bottom that holds a filter bed of hops. Hot wort enters through the inlet at top and exits through the outlet at bottom.

Design of the hop back must take into account the amount of whole hops that the brewery uses. It should have enough open surface area on the false bottom to allow an entire gyle to filter in <1 h, preferably closer to 0.5 h. Textbooks recommend a filter bed of at least 6 in. (preferably 12-24 in.), though I have seen home brewers effectively use much less. It is important to avoid suction of the wort because it increases the risk that hops will pass through to the heat exchangers. Wort flow through the hop back can be controlled by applying back pressure (that is, by placing a valve on the positive side of the wort pump).

An in-line sight glass is a nice feature and is useful for checking clarity. Large breweries have more complex hop backs, with features such as sparge, recirculation, underletting, and spent-hops discharge. Others use hop separators, where wort enters, passes through a sieve, and discharges. Hop separators maximize hop efficiency by incorporating a screw conveyer that compresses and sparges the hops before expelling them.
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Old 03-19-2013, 01:31 AM   #14
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What's a good yeast?

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Old 03-19-2013, 10:32 AM   #15
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What's a good yeast?
They said American Ale. It takes on its own character at the brewery though after harvesting and reusing but the normal S05 or WLP001 or 1056 is fine.
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Old 03-20-2013, 12:00 PM   #16
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I'm using a US05 in an ipa I'm doing brewing today. But it's a strand I harvested all from other ipas this will be it's third fermentation and last. (wife is tired of looking at it). I was just wondering about a yeast for the nugget, I was thinking about trying a Nottingham just to switch it up? The nugget had something that I couldn't pick out.

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Old 03-20-2013, 12:38 PM   #17
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Your wife is sick of looking at US-05? Seems like a pretty cool wife honestly! (Unless she is sick of looking at your beer in general).

Nottingham would work OK, but I think that Troegs house yeast has a little something extra to it. It’s not completely clean but it doesn’t have a ton of esters like a british strain would have.

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Old 10-19-2013, 10:03 PM   #18
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I went with 53% Vienna, 40% Pale, 3% Melanoiden, & 3% C-60. 6.5oz hops boil. 3oz dry hops. American Ale II. 5g batch, mash 152. Hopeful for a tasty brew!

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