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Old 05-07-2013, 03:45 AM   #151
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It has been a little while since the post asking about how much priming sugar to add to a batch, but here goes anyway. This is a handy priming sugar addition calculator. It lets you account for what type of sugar you are using as well as the carbonation level you desire for your beer style:

http://www.tastybrew.com/calculators/priming.html

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Old 05-07-2013, 10:34 AM   #152
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My last brew to reduce the SRM was to use 6oz honey malt--down from 1lb, And 3 oz Crystal 10L instead of 20L. I also used Wyeast 1099 Whitebread Ale. This change resulted in a much lighter color with the same great taste. Safale-Us-05 also works well.

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Old 05-07-2013, 12:05 PM   #153
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I just brewed this over the weekend.

I did an extract conversion set up through Beersmith and I used the following:

Mini mashed 2 lbs of 2 row, 8oz of honey malt and 8oz of Crystal 40L

I mashed at 150-155 degrees for one hour then sparged with about 1.5 quarts of 170 degree water.

I mashed with 4 quarts of water and used a grain bag for the grist.

I did this on the stove top in a regular pot with a lid checking the temp every 10 minutes. I needed to turn on the burner to high for about 35 seconds every ten minutes to maintain the temp.

After the mash and sparge (btw, I had my 32 quart pot going the whole time with 3.5 gallons getting up to my sparge temp of 170 and used this to sparge the grains) I dumped the wort into my brew kettle and brought up to a boil.

At boil I started my timer (through beersmith <-----great great program btw and well worth the money) and started adding in my hop additions.

With the smaller boil volume I had to adjust a couple of things but not much really. The main thing was instead of the OP's hop schedule I only had to lower the first addition of Centennial from 1.5oz to 1oz for 60 minutes. The rest of the hop schedule went as per the OP's recipe.

I entered in all the AA values as well and some were higher than average for this years crop and some were slightly lower. It all worked out well though and again, the only change was the 60 minute hops from 1.5oz to 1oz.

At 15 minutes in (45 mark) I added 3 lbs of light DME, continued with hop additions and at 45 minutes in (15 mark) I added in 6.6 lbs light Briess LME. Took a while to get back up to boil after the LME addition so I paused the clock for a few minutes.

I added Irish Moss at 10 min left and finished up.

Cooled wort, rehydrated my yeast and pitched at 70 degrees.

I ended up with a metric ton of hop sludge and I strained that out through a grain bag and a nice ss strainer made of fine mesh. This got most of the hop sludge out of my fermentor but I did have to leave about .3 of a gallon in the pot, just all sludge and hot/cold break. I know all of this can go into the fermentor but I didn't want it in there.

I think I ended up with about 3.4 gallons in the fermentor initially and then I topped up to 5.3 and took my OG reading. Beersmith estimated 1.077 but I got 1.062, likely because of the wort left in the pot and the .3 additional water in the fermentor (up from 5 gallons in Beersmith).

Color was pretty dark, I don't have a way to measure it but Beersmith estimated it at 12.1 and I would say that's probably pretty close. Not a big deal to me as this is my first run with this recipe and I can make changes down the road. Judging by the smell of it I would guess it's going to taste very very similar to FP.

After a nervous couple of days, NO airlock activity.....BTW, I pitched two packets of rehydrated Safale US-05, I did a smell test and sure enough right by the lid to bucket junction I was getting very strong (and wonderful) hop aromas, so I guess I have some blow by and that's why my airlock isn't doing it's normal thing...... I knew I should have gone with a glass carboy...oh well. Next time.

I'm going to leave it in the primary for a good 10 to 11 days then on to the secondary to dry hop with the OP's recipe for 7 to 10 days, then bottle.

As per the priming calculator shown above I'm going to prime with 3oz of corn sugar when I rack to my bottling bucket.

Hoping for the best. The smell is off the chain and will only get better with the dry hopping!


Taste test in about 3 to 4 weeks.

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Old 05-08-2013, 08:00 PM   #154
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Love the commercial version so decided to try this. I've changed things a little for my taste. I've made the grain bill simple in an attempt to get the lighter color. I deleted the crystal malt for that reason, and because the Ithaca website says only 2-row and honey malt. Plus, I use Pale Malt (Hugh Baird) because it's what I can get by the sack cheap. The Hugh Baird adds some color so I definitely didn't want to add any cyrstal to my version. I normally make a 11 gallon batches, but decided to make this one 11.5 gallons to try to compensate for the massive amount of hops. I was intrigued by Waorgany's hop schedule, so I used it and hints from the Ithaca's website. Normally, I'm anal about AA% and converting IBU for recipes. But with this amount of hops......who cares? I used the OP's suggestion of using less water in the mash and had a corresponding loss in efficiency. Expected to end up with 1.074 and ended up with 1.071. No biggie and I should have thought to compensate for this....my bad.

Brew 5-4-13

11.5 gallons @ 78% efficiency (Expected anyway...)

29# Pale Malt (2-row)
1.5# Honey Malt

60 Min 2oz Centennial
50 Min 1oz Amarillo
40 Min 2oz Citra
35 Min 2oz Chinook
30 Min 2oz Simcoe
25 Min 2oz Cascade
20 Min 2oz Ahtanum
15 Min 1oz Amarillo

Dry Hop for 7 days. 2oz each of Centennial, Simcoe, and Cascade.

SA-05 for the yeast.

Mash 152 degrees for 60 minutes. I used 1.1qt/# for strike water. I ususally use 1.3qts because I use a RIMS.

OG: 1.071 Slightly less than expected (see above).

The boiling wort smelled awesome and the whirlpool in my pot left a huge pile of spent hop material in the kettle. Still the carboys look like they were filled with pea soup! Fermented in the mid 60s and today (5-8), came home from work and fermentation looks like it is about finished. So, I bumped the temperature to 70 degrees. Will let sit for 2-3 more weeks and then secondary for dry hopping. Then cold crash and keg. I'll report back.

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Old 05-10-2013, 11:10 PM   #155
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Tasted a bottle of the late hop FP after only about 10 days carbonating. It's got some carbonating to do, but the honey and hops are lovely. I'd recommend this brew to anyone.

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Old 05-12-2013, 01:46 AM   #156
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I am brewing this tomorrow but I am intimidated by the amount of bitterness and the IBU/SG ratio.

Does the flavor still come through without any late / whirlpool hops?

Has anyone brewed this with a bittering charge at 60, and then all the rest in the last 10 - 15 minutes?

I was thinking:

1oz Centennial at 60 min

15 minutes - 1oz simcoe

10min
2oz cascade
1oz amarillo

5 min
1oz citra
1oz chinook
1oz amarillo

around 80 IBUs. Is the 100+ ibus that noticeable when compared to 75 - 80?

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Old 05-12-2013, 12:18 PM   #157
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InityBrew View Post
I am brewing this tomorrow but I am intimidated by the amount of bitterness and the IBU/SG ratio.

Does the flavor still come through without any late / whirlpool hops?

Has anyone brewed this with a bittering charge at 60, and then all the rest in the last 10 - 15 minutes?

I was thinking:

1oz Centennial at 60 min

15 minutes - 1oz simcoe

10min
2oz cascade
1oz amarillo

5 min
1oz citra
1oz chinook
1oz amarillo

around 80 IBUs. Is the 100+ ibus that noticeable when compared to 75 - 80?
I did something similar, and it turned out really nicely. Only a 60 minute addition, followed by additions at 10, 5, and a post-boil whirlpool (30 mins)

Schedule here.

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f69/ithaca-flower-power-clone-319619/index14.html#post5102248
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Old 05-27-2013, 01:58 PM   #158
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Default Updating the late hops Flower Power..


Quote:
Originally Posted by rtb178 View Post
Tasted a bottle of the late hop FP after only about 10 days carbonating. It's got some carbonating to do, but the honey and hops are lovely. I'd recommend this brew to anyone.
Right at about three weeks, and I must say, this is an excellent beer. It's a bit darker than the real flower power, but the aroma is excellent (lots of tropical fruit and flowery citrus) and the taste is very good. There're some tweaks to be made but I think this is a good start for those interested in a late hop example.
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Old 05-27-2013, 10:12 PM   #159
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hammy71 View Post
Love the commercial version so decided to try this. I've changed things a little for my taste. I've made the grain bill simple in an attempt to get the lighter color. I deleted the crystal malt for that reason, and because the Ithaca website says only 2-row and honey malt. Plus, I use Pale Malt (Hugh Baird) because it's what I can get by the sack cheap. The Hugh Baird adds some color so I definitely didn't want to add any cyrstal to my version. I normally make a 11 gallon batches, but decided to make this one 11.5 gallons to try to compensate for the massive amount of hops. I was intrigued by Waorgany's hop schedule, so I used it and hints from the Ithaca's website. Normally, I'm anal about AA% and converting IBU for recipes. But with this amount of hops......who cares? I used the OP's suggestion of using less water in the mash and had a corresponding loss in efficiency. Expected to end up with 1.074 and ended up with 1.071. No biggie and I should have thought to compensate for this....my bad.

Brew 5-4-13

11.5 gallons @ 78% efficiency (Expected anyway...)

29# Pale Malt (2-row)
1.5# Honey Malt

60 Min 2oz Centennial
50 Min 1oz Amarillo
40 Min 2oz Citra
35 Min 2oz Chinook
30 Min 2oz Simcoe
25 Min 2oz Cascade
20 Min 2oz Ahtanum
15 Min 1oz Amarillo

Dry Hop for 7 days. 2oz each of Centennial, Simcoe, and Cascade.

SA-05 for the yeast.

Mash 152 degrees for 60 minutes. I used 1.1qt/# for strike water. I ususally use 1.3qts because I use a RIMS.

OG: 1.071 Slightly less than expected (see above).

The boiling wort smelled awesome and the whirlpool in my pot left a huge pile of spent hop material in the kettle. Still the carboys look like they were filled with pea soup! Fermented in the mid 60s and today (5-8), came home from work and fermentation looks like it is about finished. So, I bumped the temperature to 70 degrees. Will let sit for 2-3 more weeks and then secondary for dry hopping. Then cold crash and keg. I'll report back.
Kegged yesterday. Tried a sample pre-dryhop, and was very bitter. Reminded me of the Pliney clones out there. But, after a week of dryhopping, holy crap! No bitternesss, just pure hop heaven. First beer in a while that it'll be hard to wait the three weeks to carb. Woohoo!!
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Old 05-29-2013, 04:44 AM   #160
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How long did you let it be in the keg?

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