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10-05-2011, 04:15 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Chandler
Posts: 2,086
Liked 101 Times on 83 Posts Likes Given: 11
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Yup =), regular 'ol spring water would be just fine. Don't worry about water chemistry until the rest of your process is nailed. |
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10-05-2011, 09:09 PM
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#12
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Tampa
Posts: 310
Likes Given: 2
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What do hog gain by messing with the water chemistry? Also how do you know what sort of water profile is good?
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10-06-2011, 09:05 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Chandler
Posts: 2,086
Liked 101 Times on 83 Posts Likes Given: 11
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If your water profile is good, you don't gain anything by messing with water chemistry. If your water profile sucks (which mine does), you have quite a bit to gain. My water is extremely hard, and full of chlorine, so I start with reverse osmosis water. RO water is too soft for most styles other than pilsners, so I need to add minerals back.
Check out the brew science forum here on HBT, there's lots of good info.
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10-18-2011, 04:05 PM
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#14
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Laurel
Posts: 50
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I can't wait to try this recipe. I'm a huge fan of DFH 90 min (and a huge hop head). I agree with scottland about the water chemistry. My water is really soft, so I tend to add 2 tsp gypsum and 1 tsp epsom more as a yeast nutrient (they need the Ca and Mg) after the mash is done. My pH usually isn't a problem. You can get your water profile reports off your county website. Once my spiced christmas ale is out of my primary, I'll get this one ready. Thanks Scottland!
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10-18-2011, 08:58 PM
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#15
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Feedback Score: 1 reviews
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Delaware
Posts: 857
Liked 20 Times on 19 Posts
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shuznuts
I can't wait to try this recipe. I'm a huge fan of DFH 90 min (and a huge hop head). I agree with scottland about the water chemistry. My water is really soft, so I tend to add 2 tsp gypsum and 1 tsp epsom more as a yeast nutrient (they need the Ca and Mg) after the mash is done. My pH usually isn't a problem. You can get your water profile reports off your county website. Once my spiced christmas ale is out of my primary, I'll get this one ready. Thanks Scottland!
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I have my own well so I would have to have someone come out and test my water. I have seen those home test kits. Not sure how accurate they are.
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10-18-2011, 10:15 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Chandler
Posts: 2,086
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There is a company that does water sample analysis for like $20 or so. You fill up two test tubes and ship it off, and they send you the results. Ward Labs.
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f128/how-send-water-ward-labs-test-129581/
That link should have all the info you need.
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10-31-2011, 11:21 PM
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#17
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Laurel
Posts: 50
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Anyone have any experience with open fermentation?
I had my second fermenter blow up today. My 1st was with a belgian triple in a 5 gal carboy with no blow off hose. For my DFH clone I decided on my good old faithful 6 gal ale pail and double bubble air lock. I come home today from work and check on my brew (2 days into fermentation) and I don't hear the airlock going. I open the door and the ale pale lid is on the floor. The airlock completely gummed up and 2 feet away, kreusen everywhere. It must have been off for a while because cleaning everything up took forever because it had dried on pretty good. Anyway, I cleaned and sanitized the lid, cleaned and sanitized the lock, replaced everything. That lock is bubbling like crazy still. Jimmy cricket! That S-04 is no joke!
Anyway, I hope The batch will turn out ok. Luckily I didnt lose too much brew. I figure it was like open fermenting for a bit, so that's why I posed the question at the beginning. I just figure I'll RDWHAHB.
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11-10-2011, 02:27 PM
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#18
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Feedback Score: 1 reviews
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Grand Rapids, MI
Posts: 81
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Is it possible to get an extract or partial conversion for this? Love 90-minute but not into All-grain yet. If not, I'll stick with the 60 minute. Thanks!
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11-10-2011, 03:58 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Chandler
Posts: 2,086
Liked 101 Times on 83 Posts Likes Given: 11
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Sure: Partial mash is going to be the way to go, you're going to want that character from the Amber malt. Subbing it for crystal won't give the same effect.
1lb 2-row (crushed)
1lb Amber (crushed)
-Steep(mash) those in a grain bag in 1gal of water between 152-155* for 30-45min. Discard grains.
-Add enough water to get you to the amount you normally use pre-boil.
-Add 9.5lbs Light DME or 12lbs Extra Light LME
-Follow the recipe from there, add your top off water to get to 5.5 in the fermenter
-Personally I would also sub out some of the DME or LME for some cane or corn sugar to make sure it attenuates enough. Use 12oz of cane or corn sugar, and 12oz less LME or DME.
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11-10-2011, 04:14 PM
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#20
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Feedback Score: 1 reviews
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Grand Rapids, MI
Posts: 81
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Thanks a bunch! Going to be my next batch!
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