Double IPA Dogfish Head 90 Minute Clone

sancycling said:

So I brewed this recipe using WLP007.
Fermentation went as planned and ended with a FG of 1.010

My issue is that after two weeks after bottling the beer is flat. I added 100g of cane sugar for 13.5liters of beer.

This is the amount if sugar that I add to most of my beers and carbing is usually good to high.

But this beer is flat. I made sure to mix the boiled/cooled sugar.

I didnt add any fresh yeast. I left the beer in primary for four weeks.

Bottles hace been at 21-22c for the two weeks.

Any ideas or suggestions? I know patience... But this beer is completely flat and the rest of my beers are carbed by two weeks, perhaps green but carbed.

Thanks

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In my experience with making a DFH 90 Minute clone, a beer with this alcohol level is more than likely to take quite a but more than two weeks to bottle condition. I'd try one every two weeks, starting once they have been in the bottle 6 weeks.
Give it time, this recipe makes a tasty beer!

I have a few ideas. But wait at least 6 weeks before doing anything.

1 open all bottles back up and gently pour back into a sanitized carboy. Add a little more of same yeast to entire batch to ferment out the sugar from priming. Then batch prime again and hope the yeast you added will be enough to carbonate this time.

2 . Dump all beer back into carboy and add more yeast finish ferment of added sugar. Then put beer in a keg and force carb.

3. Pour beer direct into keg and force carb as is. I don't like this tho cause it will be to sweet from unfermented bottling sugar.

Maybe if you have to put back in carboy you my dry hop more. Haha

Also I think maybe opening each bottle and pit a little yeast in each not so bad idea to. Cause not like more sugar being added so no worry about bottle bombs.

Hope you figured out how much per bottling liquid you had before you calculated how much priming sugar you needed.
Cheers man.

I just brewed up a Lawson's double sunshine and going to Brew this 90min again soon. It always turns out good for me. Don't buy anymore since the bottles are never consistent.

would wyeast 1187 be okay to use for this style of IPA?

shawny said:

would wyeast 1187 be okay to use for this style of IPA?

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When I did this beer, I felt it was already on the malty side, well balanced, but malty. It might turn out a bit too sweet, but that might be the way you like it! Nothing wrong with trying it

I'm excited to brew this! I am taking a vacation back to my hometown in which is 20 minutes from DFH in Rehoboth, DE. Going to try and get my hands on the 90, and 120 minute!

We just started getting dfh back in TN. I haven't seen the 130 around, but I realy dig the 90

Jwin said:

We just started getting dfh back in TN. I haven't seen the 130 around, but I realy dig the 90

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I'm stationed at Ft. Campbell! DFH is hard to find but it is around.

brewmesomewater said:

I'm stationed at Ft. Campbell! DFH is hard to find but it is around.

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Just got to Robertson county a couple weeks ago. Check your local high gravity/liquor stores

Idk if they distribute to ky, so may have to go into clarksville.
Pour vou in hendersonville has the entire lineup

I've seen quite a bit of them in Mulligans in clarksville. Found a nice craft beer bar called hops road as well if your in the area. They have fresh hops grown around their entrance and they incorporate hops in their food.

Questions : Gravity 1.085? Whole or Pellet Hops? Should I pull the first addition of dry hops before 2nd addition? Secondary? Yeast Starter : how wlp007? Water to Dme ratio? Cold Crash?

This one is definitely on my short list to brew. I never really liked IPAs a whole lot, but I started to drink a few to acquire a taste. I found a few that I liked and then I tried some DFH. Wow! Great beers. I love everyone of them I've tried, especially the 90.

randomgnarkill said:

Questions : Gravity 1.085? Whole or Pellet Hops? Should I pull the first addition of dry hops before 2nd addition? Secondary? Yeast Starter : how wlp007? Water to Dme ratio? Cold Crash?

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Let's see here...
The starting gravity after your boil should be 1.085. You are making a 9% ABV beer. Pellet hops for sure. I only did one dry hop addition and had no issues. Why complicate it? If you do 2 additions I would be pulling the hops bag myself. I would secondary this as you will have a lot of trub IIRC (tons of hops and grain). Yes for a yeast starter. Look for a thread on it. Wlp007 is a white labs yeast. I used something else and it worked fine too. If you aren't an experienced brewer yet, I wouldn't tackle this one quite yet unless you have help from someone more experienced. That one is from experience (my later batches were much, much better)

My first attempt at 90 min dogfish the taste isn't to bad. It needs the proper grains. I used American 2 row and basic amber. I followed the recipe to the . I did had trouble with my mash and had to boil off 60+ mins before starting the hops and 90min boil. Any help?

View attachment 1440870795309.jpg

Real 90 on the left. Clone on right. 1.080sg.

This will be happening this weekend for sure. Can't wait to brew this one.

This was spot on for me need to brew another after my Backwoods Bastard.

Mine is good but, not a dogfish head 90. I don't know why it's so cloudy

Because IPAs are supposed to be cloudy! Especially a dry hopped double. Any clear ones you see are filtered.

Be proud of your cloudy IPA!

With enough patience you can have clear beer that is unfiltered.

pfgonzo said:

Because IPAs are supposed to be cloudy! Especially a dry hopped double. Any clear ones you see are filtered.

Be proud of your cloudy IPA!

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I know it's just when my friends see it their a little hesitate to try it.

brewski09 said:

With enough patience you can have clear beer that is unfiltered.

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How? Tabs, Irish moss, cold crashing?

Mine was cloudy and we drank it all. You can clean it up but its so much better cloudy. RJ Rocker has an Imperial IPA ,Knockout is I think what it is called ,thats cloudy out of the bottle.

randomgnarkill said:

How? Tabs, Irish moss, cold crashing?

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Not sure what you mean by tabs (I assume it's a specific product) but Irish moss and cold crashing only accelerate the clearing process. It's happening naturally and will complete with enough time. The trick is to then pour the bottles without disturbing the sediment.

Also, try labeling it unfiltered and its now cool to have a cloudy beer.

This may have already been asked, but do you start adding hops at 60 minutes? I've never done any brews before.

brewski09 said:

With enough patience you can have clear beer that is unfiltered.

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Agree 100%. Without starting a secondary/no secondary war, I leave my beer in primary for at least 3 weeks and never go to secondary. By then, most of the suspended yeast falls out and you have nice clear beer. You can practically see through the carboy.

I find a lot of brewers get anxious to keg or bottle their beer and end up with too much residual yeast.

Just my 2 cents.

What he said ^^^

spiff2268 said:

This may have already been asked, but do you start adding hops at 60 minutes? I've never done any brews before.

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It really depends on the recipe. Most recipes are 60 minute boils and there is typically a 60 minute hop addition. Dogfish 90 is a 90 minute boil that is continually hopped, so you would begin hopping at 90 minutes and add hops every minute or so.

scoundrel said:

Agree 100%. Without starting a secondary/no secondary war, I leave my beer in primary for at least 3 weeks and never go to secondary. By then, most of the suspended yeast falls out and you have nice clear beer. You can practically see through the carboy.



I find a lot of brewers get anxious to keg or bottle their beer and end up with too much residual yeast.



Just my 2 cents.

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Secondary if you want, don't if you don't want to. I use secondary sometimes depending on my intentions (adjuncts, recapturing yeast). I agree people bottle/keg early a lot too (I'm guilty at times as well).

Anyone have a successful water profile to showcase both hops and malt for this beer? Mostly interested in cl/so4 ratio but any info will be appreciated.

surgical_ass said:

Anyone have a successful water profile to showcase both hops and malt for this beer? Mostly interested in cl/so4 ratio but any info will be appreciated.

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http://www.thebrewingnetwork.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=&t=25260
I get questions about my water profiles all the time. (hundreds not millions.) I think a lot of people ask thinking that's the one thing that's keeping their beers from being exactly like mine. My hoppy beer profile works well for me but I don't think it's in any way optimal. I just don't give water that much attention unless there's a problem.

For hoppy beers, pale ale and above, I use Ca-110ppm, Mg-18ppm, Na-17ppm, SO4-350ppm, Cl-50ppm. For all other beers, I use Ca-75ppm, Mg-12pm, Na-35ppm, SO4-120ppm, Cl-100ppm. I don't claim these are anything special and any success I've had could have been despite these profiles. They work for me but I'm sure there are certainly better.

Tasty

Tasty, which of your the two profiles would you choose for the 90 min? The reason I ask is it seems like the hops and malt are balanced more than a traditional ipa. Thanks for the response!

Can anybody help me scale down the hopping rates for a 3 gallon batch? I'm pretty sure on how to do the malts "X"/5.5x3=3 gallon amount, would that be the same for the hops? Or should I keep the hop amounts the same and just scale down the malts? Thanks!

Any help?

Just scale everything down by the same percentage.

Use a brewing program and put in the full recipe to get the stats. Then scale down and make sure your stats are all in line still. Sometimes direct scaling isn't quite right.

A2HB said:

Can anybody help me scale down the hopping rates for a 3 gallon batch? I'm pretty sure on how to do the malts "X"/5.5x3=3 gallon amount, would that be the same for the hops? Or should I keep the hop amounts the same and just scale down the malts? Thanks!

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I usually do 5-gallon batch * .6 to achieve the proper amounts. It works fine, usually.

Ok thanks for everyone's suggestions. So I think I'm going to go with an initial 4 oz of hops for my three gallon batch with a 3 oz dry hop. Boil hopping is going to be 2.5 oz Amarillo, .75 Warrior, and .75 Simcoe hopped over the 90 min boil. 10 additions at .4 oz per addition. According to Brewer's friend this puts me at 169 ibus, but I'm not too concerned about that since I don't know the AA percentage of my warrior or simcoe just yet.

Will be brewing this either superbowl sunday or the day after and I can't wait!

Brewed a 3 galllon batch of this today, and overshot my gravity for the second time for some reason. Everything else went smoothly, a great easy brew day. If youre going to brew this, using hop sacks is the way to go, makes it super easy to rack.

Brewing a 5 gallon batch of this on Friday, hoping it tastes like the real thing! Ground the grains today, going to step up the yeast tomorrow, and brew Friday morning.